Turn a small drill press into a Bore/ Hone. Bolt it to the top of your engine block & do your own machining .

-
I have a spare 340, that just has a few miles to many to just go back in for my taste. Would be fine as is with a Spary Bomb and new gaskets for most. But I could do a real pro job at home.
Build a cage out of old pallets to accurately hold me in position. Get a PoGo Stick, my 18V Ryobi and a dingleberry hone.Maybe I could get Uncle Tony to put me on his channel.....but who would watch......

20230607_112057.jpg
 
Man this thing has some quality features bet it is inaccurate i meen accurate

71sffAnRJuL.jpg
 
Jessearent said:
I think the definition of "bore" should be, Hog it out anyway you can accurately without messing up the block...
Click to expand...
You may want to think so, but it's not.
Boring is a specific operation performed with specific tools, as is honing. But they are not the same.
Jessearent said:
I hate this software not allowing to type correctly in the chosen space
Click to expand...
It's not the software.
GIGO.
 
Jessearent said:
I think the definition of "bore" should be, Hog it out anyway you can accurately without messing up the block...
Click to expand...
When I went through a millwright course back in the late seventies, hog meant remove a lot of material before the final cuts
The thing is, no matter what, the invisible center line of the cylinder and the boring bar have to be right on, are you attempting to bore then cylinder or hone it out 30 over?
You wouldn't need a mag drill as far as I know to hone it and researching this I see some guys have accomplished boring a cylinder this way but also have ran into some problems with cylinder taper, you definitely should have a bore gauge and mike or good calibers to measure outside piston diameter.
As I wrote before when you buy the tools needed that would cover a few cylinders being done by a shop
I always used the example, "if we were out at sea and lives depended on". Sure we'd do whatever necessary to get some engine or piece of equipment up and running but in your case, I think the better way all the way around would be a good engine shop
Just my opinion
 
Steve welder said:
When I went through a millwright course back in the late seventies, hog meant remove a lot of material before the final cuts
The thing is, no matter what, the invisible center line of the cylinder and the boring bar have to be right on, are you attempting to bore then cylinder or hone it out 30 over?
You wouldn't need a mag drill as far as I know to hone it and researching this I see some guys have accomplished boring a cylinder this way but also have ran into some problems with cylinder taper, you definitely should have a bore gauge and mike or good calibers to measure outside piston diameter.
As I wrote before when you buy the tools needed that would cover a few cylinders being done by a shop
I always used the example, "if we were out at sea and lives depended on". Sure we'd do whatever necessary to get some engine or piece of equipment up and running but in your case, I think the better way all the way around would be a good engine shop
Just my opinion
Click to expand...

Using a caliper to measure piston and bore size TO FINISH is laughable at best.

You‘d do just as well with a yard stick. Use the proper tools or don’t bother, unless you like junk.
 
Jadaharabi said:
When is the first test run?
Click to expand...
Working on the chuck to core head shaft, it will be at least a week for me to get the Sloppy CoreDredd Shaft Technology perfected. Here's a picture too show you what I am upaainst. I will need a 1" steely ball and a coil spring under it with the .25" horizontal shaft installed. And then a vertical shaft to this HSS 1" × 1" bit I modify/or professional fabricator. l am thinking a 1/4" universal joint socket incorporated somewhere

IMG_20230607_135949327.jpg


IMG_20230607_135942706.jpg


IMG_20230607_140717145.jpg


IMG_20230607_142645922.jpg


IMG_20230607_142656218.jpg
 
Steve welder said:
When I went through a millwright course back in the late seventies, hog meant remove a lot of material before the final cuts
The thing is, no matter what, the invisible center line of the cylinder and the boring bar have to be right on, are you attempting to bore then cylinder or hone it out 30 over?
You wouldn't need a mag drill as far as I know to hone it and researching this I see some guys have accomplished boring a cylinder this way but also have ran into some problems with cylinder taper, you definitely should have a bore gauge and mike or good calibers to measure outside piston diameter.
As I wrote before when you buy the tools needed that would cover a few cylinders being done by a shop
I always used the example, "if we were out at sea and lives depended on". Sure we'd do whatever necessary to get some engine or piece of equipment up and running but in your case, I think the better way all the way around would be aca
Click to expand...
 
Rat Bastid said:
Using a caliper to measure piston and bore size TO FINISH is laughable at best.

You‘d do just as well with a yard stick. Use the proper tools or don’t bother, unless you like junk.
Click to expand...
It would give him a good idea of were he is at
Ive seen real machinist's use dial calipers many times in the shop, I would think using an outside mike would be whats really should be used. The guy is using a mag drill to bore or hone his cylinders, I doubt he could afford a set of outside micrometers, hence my thoughts
I didn't know you were actually a machinist
 
Jessearent said:
Sorry Steve this f...ckup soft ware made me delete some of yrou post ,at the end of the paragraph.
Click to expand...
No worries, to bad, I couldn't have you talk to the top machinist I knew at the shop, guy was brilliant. He made things we were in awe with. The shop he left to come work with us, his old boss was devastated
He's the guy who fabricated a boring setup to cut a the bearing that the prop shaft goes through
It was a inside boring machine scratch built, really something to see
Nice guy too, very humble and approachable
 
Steve welder said:
It would give him a good idea of were he is at
Ive seen real machinist's use dial calipers many times in the shop, I would think using an outside mike would be whats really should be used. The guy is using a mag drill to bore or hone his cylinders, I doubt he could afford a set of outside micrometers, hence my thoughts
I didn't know you were actually a machinist
Click to expand...
Maybe the local thrift shop has that outside micrometer? Maybe an inside one also.
 
Jessearent said:
Maybe the local thrift shop has that outside micrometer? Maybe an inside one also.
Click to expand...
A good, meaning not a HF dial calliper is suppose to be accurate to a thousandth of a inch, a micrometer needed for a piston of the size you need provided it is set properly is suppose to be I think to a ten thousandth of a inch
A lot depends on whose taking the measurements and is the mic or caliber accurate
Im no machinist by any stretch however I was trained in basic machine shop and did some basic lathe and milling work
Dont listen to some guy who tells you that using a dial caliber, you might as well be using a yardstick, he's a guy looking to build himself up at someones else's expense
Yes you should use a mic but again if you dont check that mic, if you have little or no experience using one, whats the sense
Talk to real machinists, let them explain the do's and the don'ts. Why something will work and why it wont work
You also have to take into consideration a mag drill will move, it depends on not only the strength of the magnet but how thick material it's attaching to. A engine block would be certainly thick enough but putting too much muscle into the handle on that press, do not think it cant move.......The other issue is the amount of play in the press's ways....It's a drill attached to a magnet.....Not all are made that way but yours is. The tool was designed to drill holes.
No expert here but just pointing out what I feel issues might be
 
Steve welder said:
A good, meaning not a HF dial calliper is suppose to be accurate to a thousandth of a inch, a micrometer needed for a piston of the size you need provided it is set properly is suppose to be I think to a ten thousandth of a inch
A lot depends on whose taking the measurements and is the mic or caliber accurate
Im no machinist by any stretch however I was trained in basic machine shop and did some basic lathe and milling work
Dont listen to some guy who tells you that using a dial caliber, you might as well be using a yardstick, he's a guy looking to build himself up at someones else's expense
Yes you should use a mic but again if you dont check that mic, if you have little or no experience using one, whats the sense
Talk to real machinists, let them explain the do's and the don'ts. Why something will work and why it wont work
You also have to take into consideration a mag drill will move, it depends on not only the strength of the magnet but how thick material it's attaching to. A engine block would be certainly thick enough but putting too much muscle into the handle on that press, do not think it cant move.......The other issue is the amount of play in the press's ways....It's a drill attached to a magnet.....Not all are made that way but yours is. The tool was designed to drill holes.
No expert here but just pointing out what I feel issues might be
Click to expand...
Thx for the input Steve. Believe your right. When the time comes, I believe I will bolt on extra support for mag drill base...maybe a band over the magnet and or cams on either same for lateral support.
 
Just for the heck of it im going to check the run out on my old mag drill......The on/off switch went bad so I will replace and asap check it out
 
Jessearent said:
Maybe the local thrift shop has that outside micrometer? Maybe an inside one also.
Click to expand...
Years ago I picked up several micrometers and calipers at a yard sale. The husband had retired from being a machinist at Caterpillar and he was selling off all his tools. I spent a couple hundred bucks and probably got at least 3 or $4,000 worth of instruments. So they are where you find them.
I also pick up a lot of Snap-on and Craftsman tools at yard sales. A lot of people don't realize they have a lifetime warranty so you can trade them in for new ones if they're damaged.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top