Turn a small drill press into a Bore/ Hone. Bolt it to the top of your engine block & do your own machining .

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gzig5 said:
Most drill presses are going to ruin the bore no matter how rigid the base and structure because they don't have the correct type of spindle bearings to deal with the side forces generated by single point boring. The tool hanging out that far is going to wobble all over then grab and break something if the motor has any nuts. I'm all for McGyvering stuff if you have to, but it doesn't make any sense here. I think you'd be better off wearing out a couple of flex hones to do your overbore rather than modifying a POS drill press.
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The secret is in the Bore head...no 1sided load on this baby. An internal servo expands 5 cutting stones in unison til finished.

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Steve welder said:
I hate to discourage anyone trying to build make engineer some mechanical devise, however in this instance unless the OP has extensive machine shop experience, he would be better served to at least listen to the advise offered
I did a little research on this subject and came upon a guy who honed cylinders oversized. He stated it took 15 minutes to take off one thousandth's of a inch, so do the math on the time involved
Another video I came across was a guy who was fabricating something that would hold a bushing in a steel plate that I thought was 1/2 thick
He used a hole saw in a drill press than used a boring head to get it to the size needed
The problem was and I would ask the OP the same question was chatter with the boring head being used in a drill press
This guy made the hole and I assume was able to press the bushing in but the finish of the bore was really rough
No way would this work on a cylinder
So my questions for the OP is, #1 what will you do about chatter with the boring head
#2 whats the run out of the drill press spindle
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Thanks for the math, 30 thousands x8 x15 =what? Bout 15 hours.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
We should start a thread about all the shade tree stuff we have done in the past but don't recommend. I've used a die grinder to knock down the pop up on the valve relief side of some 340 pistons and used a file to flatten it. We were about 300 miles from a machine shop and had to get the thing running and we needed a minimum of .028 p/h clearance. It was only .024
Thing is the engine wouldn't care if the top of the piston had little dips in it or not it wouldn't cause it to explode like using a drill press to bore and hone your engine, having all the cylinders leaning different directions. Or we can start a thread called 'it'll still run'.
When I was a kid and putting junk together sandpapering journals and cleaning off rust pocks and stuff with a file. Crank journals they can be out around a little bit and still continue on no problem only under some extreme usage would they show their ugly faces and fail. You can put a scratch in a cylinder wall can gouge that ****** .030 if you wanted to and as long as you deburr that scratch, the ring skates right over it and it's equivalent of a ring Gap and you would never know it's there...'talking about a scratch, not a circular trench' . Lapped in valves, worn guides...seals will help limp them along to a point even..though the vj will wear quicker...but out of round cylinders,they do not seal.. and when the Rings don't seal ..you can't squeeze anything and when there's no squeeze/compression... that's like an old man's failed heart.... cannot pump the blood to move the body... its done.

Proper Oiling,Ring seal, valve seal, airflow.
If any one of those is crippled or missing... it's over. Starting that way is like still birth.
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To the contrary , I Learned there's a lot of good info some of you guys have. And some belly achers and some whiners with terrible dispositions .
 
Yes, just need some time to work out the chuck Bore head shaft connection. A week maybe, and I will start my .030" over on my 1st year 318 magnum block.
 

Jessearent said:
Elaborate please, this is where you shine. Pistons are Icon IC847 + .030. thanks
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Depending on the Piston type it will have the minimum X amount of clearance built into it. You can hone the cyl to however much you want. Have you mic'd the piston? Measure the piston. Leave yourself room for finish honing the clearance in. Couple thou worth. What ever the manufacture recommends..I add .001-.0015 to it.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Depending on the Piston type it will have the minimum X amount of clearance built into it. You can hone the cyl to however much you want. Have you mic'd the piston? Measure the piston. Leave yourself room for finish honing the clearance in. Couple thou worth. What ever the manufacture recommends..I add .001-.0015 to it.
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Forged Aluminum dished for the 4" 390 combo
 
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