Turn a small drill press into a Bore/ Hone. Bolt it to the top of your engine block & do your own machining .

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Jessearent said:
Will keep you all posted when I figure out how I can bore with my "drill press" it's not impossible, and it will be safe for sure, So this " bag of rocks" must teach the teachers.
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Jessearent said:
My bore hone will have a solid shank and harder than average stones from Russia that easily cut/grind metal. Kitted for a 3 cuts. Course, medium and the final hone.
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WTF??? On hard surfaces you use a SOFT stone to hone and of soft surfaces you use a HARD stone.

If you are honing a SBC you use a hard stone because that junk is so soft.

If you are honing a quality aftermarket block or sleeve you need soft stones.

You aren’t teaching any machinists on here a damned thing. You are just making an *** of yourself and your ignorance is appalling.
 
Rat Bastid said:
WTF??? On hard surfaces you use a SOFT stone to hone and of soft surfaces you use a HARD stone.

If you are honing a SBC you use a hard stone because that junk is so soft.

If you are honing a quality aftermarket block or sleeve you need soft stones.

You aren’t teaching any machinists on here a damned thing. You are just making an *** of yourself and your ignorance is appalling.
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you're right you know..jpg
 
When you answer these threads you really dont know if the OP is knowledgable on rebuilding engines and understands clearances and machine shop theory.
You also dont know if he is serious or just jerking around but calling him names such as "stupid" without trying to explain and make him understand only shows how "stupid" the person doing the name calling really is
Many decades ago I did the welding on a boiler feed pump conversion job. The pump in question had about a 12 inch discharge which was the ID of the pipe. The wall thickness was a good 2 inches thick
Pipe welded that thick is not a full bevel, its beveled for a distance than straight up to the edge of the OD of the pipe
The bevel has to be perfect as does the face of the pipe (s)
When its fit the root opening has to be exact as its all going to be x-rayed and there is a lot at stake here. The pump pressure has to overcome drum pressure which is 2500 pounds and id guess that feed pump puts out about 3500 and thats at well over 500 degree feed water temps
The piping to the feed pump was cut with a special lathe type of equipment that also beveled the pipe
We were doing this as we were installing a special type of flange on the suction and discharge lines

In the trucking industry when a rear end spindle is bad instead of changing the entire rear there is a company that specialises in repairing these spindles, what they have is special equipment that cuts the old damaged piece, than they bore out the opening which is part of the axel banjo itself and install a new spindle with the threads all machining
Now when the bore that opening its a shrink fit meaning the new spindle is larger diameter. So they heat the rear end at the opening and put the new part in plus they weld it as an extra precaution.
My point is this machining is very accurately done as its dealing with a few thousands of a inch
If the (and I dont know if he does or doesnt) understand the clearness of piston to wall and the proper finish of a cylinder wall that is needed he might think twice
The two examples I used represent accurate machining but id say not accurate enough for an engine cylinder.
Im wondering if he understands engine rebuilding and tolerances involved
 
6PakBee said:
One of my friends cut the piston heads in a 3.9 V6 using a router. Worked like a charm.
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We should start a thread about all the shade tree stuff we have done in the past but don't recommend. I've used a die grinder to knock down the pop up on the valve relief side of some 340 pistons and used a file to flatten it. We were about 300 miles from a machine shop and had to get the thing running and we needed a minimum of .028 p/h clearance. It was only .024
Thing is the engine wouldn't care if the top of the piston had little dips in it or not it wouldn't cause it to explode like using a drill press to bore and hone your engine, having all the cylinders leaning different directions. Or we can start a thread called 'it'll still run'.
When I was a kid and putting junk together sandpapering journals and cleaning off rust pocks and stuff with a file. Crank journals they can be out around a little bit and still continue on no problem only under some extreme usage would they show their ugly faces and fail. You can put a scratch in a cylinder wall can gouge that ****** .030 if you wanted to and as long as you deburr that scratch, the ring skates right over it and it's equivalent of a ring Gap and you would never know it's there...'talking about a scratch, not a circular trench' . Lapped in valves, worn guides...seals will help limp them along to a point even..though the vj will wear quicker...but out of round cylinders,they do not seal.. and when the Rings don't seal ..you can't squeeze anything and when there's no squeeze/compression... that's like an old man's failed heart.... cannot pump the blood to move the body... its done.

Proper Oiling,Ring seal, valve seal, airflow.
If any one of those is crippled or missing... it's over. Starting that way is like still birth.
 
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Rat Bastid said:
WTF??? On hard surfaces you use a SOFT stone to hone and of soft surfaces you use a HARD stone.

If you are honing a SBC you use a hard stone because that junk is so soft.

If you are honing a quality aftermarket block or sleeve you need soft stones.
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The tool is Officially described as a Bore head for cutting engine cylinders oversize..."with an internal server controlling the expansion " not a hone. I am sure the correct stones will come with application specific instructions for use..who to say what soft or hard is for the use? Don't be so nit picky and quick to find fault...my step mother was that way. I would consider that child abuse. Sincerely Jesse
 
Aww, @Rat Bastid , see what you've done? Now you've gone and hurt his feelings.
Poor step mother- just trying to prepare you for real life, where reality doesn't necessarily jive with your desires or care about your feelings. You're a big boy now, get over it and acknowledge that life doesn't give two sh*ts about your feelings.
 
1683309462916.png

So now you're going to stoop to making things up and inserting them into a quote to make it look like I said them? For somebody so concerned about "abuse", you just committed slander. Nice sin, so much for your "faith".
 
replicaracer43 said:
For fucks sakes, send me $2500 and I'll ship you my old van norman 777s boring bar setup. Its complete with all the cutting bits, the tools, the various sets of catspaws, and the tray micrometer. It's in a nice roll around cabinet also.
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is this offer open to any of us?? if so might be needing your contact info!
 
Professor Fate said:
View attachment 1716086355
So now you're going to stoop to making things up and inserting them into a quote to make it look like I said them? For somebody so concerned about "abuse", you just committed slander.
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And I deleted both of his posts and sent him a stern warning. Those games will not be tolerated!
 
I have found that I have occasionally quoted or attempted to quote and with the new "upgrade" it gets messed up.
Or an "empty" quote box shows up.
Especially on phone
toolmanmike said:
And I deleted both of his posts and sent him a stern warning. Those games will not be tolerated!
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Professor Fate said:
Thanks, Mike. I say enough stupid things on my own, I don't need anyone making stuff up for me.
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4spdragtop said:
I have found that I have occasionally quoted or attempted to quote and with the new "upgrade" it gets messed up.
Or an "empty" quote box shows up.
Especially on phone
Don't believe A body's software allows that...
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Yes it does, see what I did there? I removed "Jessearent" and left your quote.
 
Professor Fate said:
Try to find a "small" drill press with over a 6-8" stroke, and with the side load capacity/tolerances to do boring... ****, most little Chinese presses have a hard enough time drilling a hole. Plus that means you're going to have to manually feed it at a somewhat consistent speed (with a dinky 6" handle) to get any kind of useable bore finish. Not to mention trying to "bolt it on" to the deck anywhere near the bore center...
What next, torch out a slab of 1/2" steel to use as a torque plate?
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Magnetic base help you out?
 
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