Chris Biggs
Well-Known Member
Can somebody tell me what the circled item in the picture is and where it's located? Extremely new to auto renovation and need to change out the turn signal and horn.
Thanks a lot for the info!If you need to replace the turn signal switch, I would recommend purchasing a replacement from Slant Six Dan. They cost a little more than the Chinese ones sold by most vendors but you’re paying for quality and a lifetime of trouble free service. They are listed at the bottom of this page.
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
Since the horn is not working, its more likely the feeds into the connector than the turn signal switch.The turn signals and the horn aren't working
Since the horn is not working, its more likely the feeds into the connector than the turn signal switch.
Another good resource are the Chrysler Master Tech booklets.
Turn signal operation is explained in 1965, #2.
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
1968 has one that explains wiring diagrams.
On yours the H3 line is power to the horn and D2 power to the turn signal.
Generally the horn feed should always be hot when the battery is connected. So check there for battery voltage.
And the turn signals (D1 & D2) only get power when the key is in Run or Accessory position.
Trace D1 back on the diagram and it should eventually lead to the accessory terminal on the key switch. Check that one for battery voltage with the key in ACC
Here's a tip when reading the diagrams.
'Battery' is commonly used as a shorthand for power supply regardless of whether the power is coming from the battery or the alternator.
Colors may vary but typical power scheme looks like this
View attachment 1715680658
Notice the alternator output terminal is marked "Batt", and the headlight switch input terminals are B1 and B2. This what I mean by shorthand.
These main feeds are always hot (when the battery is connected).
But when the headlights areactually powered by the battery (12.5 V) they look dim compared to when they are supplied by the alternator (14 V).
Second tip.
On many cars Chrysler labled the ammeter face 'alternator'. This is somewhat confusing as it doesn't show alternator output.
The ammeter shows battery charging or discharging.
When the battery is fully charged, the meter should read zero while driving.
If its showing discharge while driving, then the alternator isn't supplying power.
In that way it does provide an indicator of alternator performance.
Easiest is to think of it as battery Charge - Discharge meter.
The early models, had a larger rectangle connector there. Later models have a long flat connector that will thread though openings in those column collars.
Unless you are willing to take the early column collars off you would have to depin the terminals in that early connector and pull wires only out and back in again. Depinning those terminals isn't easy even with the correct tools. Todays aftermarket will include the male/switch side connector, (separate from the wire terminals) but there was a time when a replacement switch did not include a new male/switch side connector. If you destroyed that connector, one option was cut the female/harness side connector off and make the wires up individually.
Where to buy the matching female/harness side connector today? This might be it.... MN3254 - 1963-69 Mopar; Turn Signal Switch Connector
but doesn't include the female terminals. So what do we do... buy both male and female molex connectors with terminals. something like this... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLQGMD5/?tag=fabo03-20
Thanks. I went ahead and ordered both sides so I can do it properly. I even ordered an extra set just in case.Harness connectors are for ease of assembly and service but.... as stated above, It was several years later before Chryslers engineers changed this particular harness connector to a more serviceable design, size and shape. If you did buy the harness side connector chopped of a OEM harness, you would need to make up the wires to your harness in a similar way to what the previous owner did, or buy the proper Packard female terminals for it.
In my opinion... this few dollars spent is still the most practical solution... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLQGMD5/?tag=fabo03-20
It wont be any more serviceable in the future, should your signal switch fail again. You will be able to unplug the signal switch if you ever need to remove the column for some other service procedure.
The little ground jumper on steering column handles horn and shift indicator lamp. I agree those other grounds at core support and firewall to block do need to be present.Doesn't look like anyone has mentioned it but a bad ground can cause a lot to not work. Grounds are at the device end of things and if not making contact properly, they just won't work well. Later cars have both firewall AND core support grounds as well as the engine ground. That's no accident.
The little ground jumper on steering column handles horn and shift indicator lamp. I agree those other grounds at core support and firewall to block do need to be present.
I'm try to hook up my Painless Wiring Kit to my 67 Dart GT steering column plug. As I look at your picture I understand what wires go where, but WHY is there two for some? Thanks for the help.Can somebody tell me what the circled item in the picture is and where it's located? Extremely new to auto renovation and need to change out the turn signal and horn.
View attachment 1715680234
Of course!!!! This wiring is NOT my favorite. But if I go slow then it makes sense. Thanks so much for the help. Do you know anything about the in dash ignition? I think I have the wires figured out, but always nice to have a second set of eyes. ThanksYou are probably looking at the branch off to the dash indicators, tan and green I think