Twin Turbo '74 Duster

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Ceramic coating will run you about $300 for the set and you are still left with all of the bumps and irregularities that will restrict flow. I am on a shoe string budget trying to do everything myself and I can honestly say that I believe my manifolds would look exactly the same as yours, which is why the only thing I'm not welding and doing my self is the manifold. I'm starting out with SS mandrel bends, cutting and spot welding to taste then bringing them to a pro to put the seams in, may be around $600 by the time it's all said and done. The down pipe, exhaust, no problem, hack it up as long as it flows. Just my 2 cents, but when prine talks turbo, I listen, and mad darts politeness aside his twin turbo is the envy of the block and if hes not sure, u shouldn't be ether. Your honesty and quest for good info will keep you on the right track and I'm just being a pain in the ***, so good luck with the build and keep us posted!:-D

For flow restrictions I'm not concerned I'm running 1.75" primaries because it's what was on the scrap headers I had. So bumps and irregularities may create a bit of turbulence, but with the primaries being so large I have plenty of give/take for a large boundary layer.

I don't disagree with Prine on much of anything, he just functions on a different budget than I do.
I've read through mad darts build and he has very impressive welding/fab skills. And I'm sure he has been doing this a lot longer than I have which is why I ask what he isn't sure about. Saying you're not sure, but then providing now explanation won't help me learn.

I'm not new to turbos or anything of the nature. I'm a senior mechanical engineering student and just finished up fluids 2. If I have to i can tell you just how inefficient my headers will be. How ever through studies I've read the differences between mandrel tuned headers and a log manifold are negligible at the power levels I'm playing at.
 
For flow restrictions I'm not concerned I'm running 1.75" primaries because it's what was on the scrap headers I had. So bumps and irregularities may create a bit of turbulence, but with the primaries being so large I have plenty of give/take for a large boundary layer.

I don't disagree with Prine on much of anything, he just functions on a different budget than I do.
I've read through mad darts build and he has very impressive welding/fab skills. And I'm sure he has been doing this a lot longer than I have which is why I ask what he isn't sure about. Saying you're not sure, but then providing now explanation won't help me learn.

I'm not new to turbos or anything of the nature. I'm a senior mechanical engineering student and just finished up fluids 2. If I have to i can tell you just how inefficient my headers will be. How ever through studies I've read the differences between mandrel tuned headers and a log manifold are negligible at the power levels I'm playing at.

We'll to be honest, what you see me building is my very first Turbo Build. I knew nothing about them 6 months ago. Yes I have been around cars since I was a kid. My Triangulated 4 Link & Minitub is the first that I have ever done. All the fab stuff you have seen me do is my very first attempt at doing it. I have rebuilt engines and can fix just about anything if given enough time. Electrical or whatever.

I however previously 15 years ago worked as a metal stud framer/fabricator/welder for 14 Years building some of the craziest things you would ever see when walking up to or into a building. Dome ceilings, Serpentine soffits "details in ceilings" , barrel ceilings........and those crazy walls, ceilings and floors you see at places like disneyland etc, "I worked at Disneyland building there crazy stuff for quite a few years" where nothing is ordinary.

I understand you are on a budget but I believe you could take a little more time with your fabricating/welding. It doesn't take much more to try and do a better job is what I am trying to say. You could get header flanges for about $35.00 and use steel plumbing pipe elbows & straight pieces for probably $20.00 per side. Run those right into a home made turbo flange and then bolt on your turbo's. It also looks like you may be using the wrong wire, speed settings and Heat settings when welding. The most common size wire is 030. I use 030 flux core for outside welding jobs where there is wind I use standard 030 wire and a 75/25 mix when using gas. I do not own a TIG welder so I take that stuff in after I tack the parts in place. " Probably going to buy one this year " I know I could pick right up on using a TIG. I use to OXY/Acettaline weld a whole bunch when I was a kid. The concept is the same accept TIG looks a whole bunch EASIER to me. Guys make a big deal about it but I know it can't be that hard to do.

The internal wiring of your machine will need to be reversed if you are switching form Flux Core wire to solid wire and a gas bottle also.... Check your settings they could be wrong. It also looks like you may be using Solid core wire that requires the use of gas, something else to check.

Some tips.
1) Clean your parts to be welded before welding
2) Clean your welding tip
3) Clean your welding hood, actually take it apart and windex the lenses etc.
4) Use protective gear so you don't get burned and jump OFF TRACK when welding.
5) Practice on scrap metal to hone your welding skills before welding the real parts.
6) Go to youtube.com and watch some welding video's. This will give you an idea of how to set your speed and what kind of sound a good penetrating weld makes and what they should look like.

I don't believe your headers now will last very long and like Prine was saying could Ruin your turbo's and your engine before you even get a chance to drive the car.

Also a 15k paint job will not hide bad body work. It will bring it out more and you will see everywhere that it was done shabby. Same with Ceramic Coating. If the part does not look that good before coating. It will look even worse after.

I hope that helps.
 
I appreciate it, the most accurate thing is I need to take more time. I tend to rush, comes with youth...lol I am trying to work on it though.

The ceramic isn't to make it pretty, it's about function. The coating will reduce heat transfer through the piping into the engine bay. More heat = more pressure in the exhaust which will in turn spool the turbine faster.
 
I appreciate it, the most accurate thing is I need to take more time. I tend to rush, comes with youth...lol I am trying to work on it though.

The ceramic isn't to make it pretty, it's about function. The coating will reduce heat transfer through the piping into the engine bay. More heat = more pressure in the exhaust which will in turn spool the turbine faster.

I understand the concept of ceramic but you can also Wrap them and it is a whole lot cheaper. Check ebay for the best prices.
 
I wrapped the last setup I did. The issues I found with it is that they hold moisture in and against the metal. Which results in faster oxidation of the metal. It also didn't hold in nearly as much heat as I had hoped.
 
I wrapped the last setup I did. The issues I found with it is that they hold moisture in and against the metal. Which results in faster oxidation of the metal. It also didn't hold in nearly as much heat as I had hoped.

I guess if you park your car outside I could see how that could happen quite bad. I think painting with VHT High Heat paint and then wrapping them after break in would help the issue. A garaged vehicle would have less issues than one that is not.
 
Ya, parking it in the garage would probably help immensely. Unfortunately my roomate has taken over the garage with his mill and lathe setup.

On a side note I just realized I never posted any pics of the actual car in this thread. So here they are if anyone is interested.

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The car comes back to the shop this week, fresh out of the paint booth for re-assembly.
 
Sweet ride, i like the color, sorta dukes,hemi, retro but classy because of the white top.
 
Car is fresh out paint and being reassembled currently. Pics of the car were the day of pick up. Re-did the console to match the body and top that's going back on.

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Headers are done minus the turbo flange. NO, they aren't pretty but they don't leak either. I'm going to clean them up a bit and once I get them in the car I will trim them to length, weld on the flange then have them ceramic coated.

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looks like my welding lol
 
Ya, parking it in the garage would probably help immensely. Unfortunately my roomate has taken over the garage with his mill and lathe setup.......
So your buddy has a mill and a lathe right down the street from me???? muahahahaha. Might have to come up with something to work on...
 
nope, Haven't given up. I've got the breather/pressure hat finished. Currently my hold up is VW parts. I converted my 2004 TDI from an auto to a manual and didn't get some wiring plug bodies I need to finish it. Sourcing them has become a real pain. And I only own two cars so I can't have them both down. =/

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And this last one just to show, I'm getting a bit better with the welder.

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hey, you only have to be good with a grinder OR a welder, not necessarily both :lol:
I've gotta get by the shop one of these days soon.
 
hey, you only have to be good with a grinder OR a welder, not necessarily both :lol:
I've gotta get by the shop one of these days soon.

it's all the way out in lakeland, but I have a good time. If I ever get you out there, we'll have to grab lunch at a pizza place out there thats probably the best in florida. Just need the damn VW parts. How is your car?
 
it's all the way out in lakeland, but I have a good time. If I ever get you out there, we'll have to grab lunch at a pizza place out there thats probably the best in florida. Just need the damn VW parts. How is your car?

I'll have to give you a call and setup a time some saturday in the next month or so.The /6 is hangin in there, seems to be running well, but has a developed a hot start issue, maybe the high octane, maybe the cold plugs...but 14.7-15.0 at cruise and 10.2-10.6 at 6-7psi and full operating temp. Would like to get the intercooler installed and give it some more timing but it seems good for now.
I'm really curious how that intake is going to work out, looks pretty wild
 
wow, hope hes good with a grinder. not to be rude, just honest, but those are pretty bad welds. i am a welder and if i did that i wouldnt show anyone.
 
I guess if you park your car outside I could see how that could happen quite bad. I think painting with VHT High Heat paint and then wrapping them after break in would help the issue. A garaged vehicle would have less issues than one that is not.
Hate to rehash this but........if you live in a climate with temp./humidity swings parking in a garage will not do you much good. Live in Eastern Washington. Parked my truck in the garage for some maintenance. It sat for a few days before I got to it and the motor/exhaust manifolds were covered with moisture. So being garaged is not really going to be of much help.....at least up my way.......
 
wow, hope hes good with a grinder. not to be rude, just honest, but those are pretty bad welds. i am a welder and if i did that i wouldnt show anyone.

kind of an out of place comparison. I've got about maybe 10-15hrs experience welding, mostly rounded surfaces. So I would hope, despite me being happy with them, that you as a professional welder would be able to do something worlds better. Comparing an amateur to a professional is a no brainer to me. Thanks for the feed back though.
 
Hate to rehash this but........if you live in a climate with temp./humidity swings parking in a garage will not do you much good. Live in Eastern Washington. Parked my truck in the garage for some maintenance. It sat for a few days before I got to it and the motor/exhaust manifolds were covered with moisture. So being garaged is not really going to be of much help.....at least up my way.......

You may be right on that one. Out here in California a lot of guys have climate control in there garages. This would be the fix all, no moisture.
 
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