Two minor questions.

[ArizonaKid]

The car is a 1974 dart swinger, 225 /6.

1: The light switch gets hot during use, at the end of my 45 minute commute, it is hot to the touch, not quite to a painful hot, but close. Is this normal? If not, how can I fix it?

2: I have done LEDs in all of my marker lights. If I switch to LED headlights, will I Have to get an LED compatible floor switch for the high/low beams? If so, who makes one?

 

[Bad Sport]

If you are upgrading headlights, I would highly suggest switching to a relay type system.

Member crackedback (Rob), sells a pre-made kit that you can just install and run upgraded lights.

The factory wiring isn't quite up to the task.

 

[KitCarlson]

The heat may come from the rheostat that dims the instrument lights. It you crank it full intensity the heat should reduce.

The power efficient way is to use a PWM controller for a dimmer. The PWM is variable duty cycle, so losses are minimal.

 

[ArizonaKid]

The heat may come from the rheostat that dims the instrument lights. It you crank it full intensity the heat should reduce.

I'll try that.

 

[BillGrissom]

Agree. Those rheostat's have a ceramic body that holds the wire, which suggests they can get hot. LED dash bulbs will greatly reduce the load, though don't dim as well w/ the rheostat, but I am happy with them at their full brightness.

I don't know about LED headlights. If drop-in compatible w/ your existing round bulbs, they should work w/ your floor switch since all it does it switch power between the low-beam and high-beam pins. I am surprised that one member who does professional car lighting hasn't jumped in and questioned if DOT-approved. If not, you might be found liable after an accident.