UCA bushing inside diameter question

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MrJLR

Built, not bought
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So I pressed out my UCA bushings and the I.D. on the old ones is .508".
The I.D. on the new Moog K7103 offset bushings is .575"......
What gives? Is it OK to use or ??????

Jeff
 
Did the sleeve come with it when you pressed it out?
 
Are the bushing ends on the bushings?

BushingEnd.gif
 
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Ok...from the picture I see it will only be to size on the ends...that makes sense now. ..

Thank you!
 
Say, Jeff, There is some confusion going around on how to install the offsets into the UCA.
Keep in mind that after the install, the BJ will need to be further to the back of the car. So the front bushing will need to have the fat rubber part to the inboard side, while the rear bushing will need to have the fat rubber part to the outboard side.
There is also confusion as to why new bolts don't put enough clamp on the bushings for them to hold on to an alignment. Sometimes the cam-flats are not machined far enough up the shank, and when you tighten everything up,the cams run out of slide when the nut gets tightened up. If this happens to you, my solution has been to put a hardened washer under the head of the bolt,as in first item onto the bolt. Sometimes two.I do this with all A's I align cuz sooner or later they will need to be installed there, even if not today. If they come loose down the road, the bushing cups will saw the frame bracket thinner, and then no amount of reefing on the nut will make it stay tight.Putting the extra washer under the head, pulls the bolt forward and the cam-flats will be back in their working range.
 
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wow,, Jeff! your giving it the works :)
 
Say, Jeff, There is some confusion going around on how to install the offsets into the UCA.
Keep in mind that after the install, the BJ will need to be further to the back of the car. So the front bushing will need to have the fat rubber part to the inboard side, while the rear bushing will need to have the fat rubber part to the outboard side.
There is also confusion as to why new bolts don't put enough clamp on the bushings for them to hold on to an alignment. Sometimes the cam-flats are not machined far enough up the shank, and when you tighten everything up,the cams run out of slide when the nut gets tightened up. If this happens to you, my solution has been to put a hardened washer under the head of the bolt,as in first item onto the bolt. Sometimes two.I do this with all A's I align cuz sooner or later they will need to be installed there, even if not today. If they come loose down the road, the bushing cups will saw the frame bracket thinner, and then no amount of reefing on the nut will make it stay tight.Putting the extra washer under the head, pulls the bolt forward and the cam-flats will be back in their working range.

You sure about the bushing orientation? You want the front pushed OUT and the rear suck IN.
 
That's absolutely correct!; the front pushed out, and the rear pulled in;so the BJ moves to the rear.

You see what I mean about confusion!

By putting the fat part of the rubber inboard on the front, you are locating the tube to the outboard, which then pushes the front of the UCA outboard.
By putting the fat part of the rubber outboard on the rear,you are locating the tube to the inboard,which then pulls the UCA rearward.
The end result is that the BJ moves outboard and then rearward;exactly what we want.
Am I wrong?

The pic in post 11 is correct (thx Blu, I'd stab your thank button but I haven't figured out how yet).
Unfortunately,the pic is upside down.
As mechanics, we are taught that all directions pertaining to the vehicle are as from seated in the drivers seat. So when diagramming stuff,the top of the page is always the front.
Why in the world MOOG chose to reverse it, boggles my mind. At least they labeled it rightly,...................
 
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So what it all amounts to is you are making the front leg of the A-arm triangle longer and the rear leg shorter. This moves the upper ball joint toward the rear resulting in added + caster, correct?
And since I'm not an alignment guru, what should one expect as benefit with the offset as opposed to the standard bushings?


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Why in the world MOOG chose to reverse it, boggles my mind. At least they labeled it rightly,...................
Lol, Our engineering dept. once drew up a set of sector gear tools for a 750 ton press, mirror image. Right around 70K. Was caught by a press setup person when measuring the part. A mad scramble followed to redo. Stuff happens!
 
Yes you are understanding it correctly.

The benifit is that you have created the possibility to run more caster and better balance the side to side numbers.
With the factory bushings, the alignment setting often have to be compromised because one side or the other has a limited adjustment range. Not anymore with the new bushings.
Most of us run camber in the range of minus .5* to about minus 1*. We believe this lets us corner a little harder without tire slip.We call this better handling. With typically sized and fitted street tires this is very difficult to prove. But we believe it, and do try to prove it by drifting every generous corner we find. Okay maybe it's just me.
To get the .5 to 1camber, we have to sacrifice caster. That's just the way it is. I have aligned A's to -.5camber and had only 1 degree positive caster left over.
Well caster provides high-speed stability. 1* is just not enough. However,3* to 4* is, at .5 to 1.0 neg camber.
But you still may have to sacrifice some caster to a lower number for a bad side, cuz the cambers HAVE to be the same. If they are out by much, they will contribute to wander.
So to summarize, the problem solvers will easily get you back to the factory settings, but will also allow some performance settings, like .5 to 1.0 neg.camber with 3 to4 or a tad more,pos. caster.
If you have manual steering, be wary of more than 4* caster, or parallel-parking will become dificult
 
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Thanks guys! Good information!
After i make sure I have my ball joint in, I'll install the bushings like the image above.

Taking today off from the 'Cuda. ....my back is killing me LOL...

Jeff
 
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