Upper Control Arm Camber Bolts

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KA3ADU

KA3ADU

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Harrisburg, PA
Just bought a 65 Valiant S6 and started pulling the front suspension out. The rear camber bolts on both UCAs are seized to the inner sleeve on the bushings. Any tips? Or is it the usual heat and beat?
 
I'll rate that song at 3. The heat sounds good but the beat is lost in the rubber.
Using a torch, The rubber in the bushing catches fire, smokes and stinks to high heaven.
Just a darn shame that the sheet metal hump portion of the inner fender isn't sectioned/bolt on, or a rubber flap like many other vehicles. If you cut the approx' 5 spot welds, split it and spread it like a drape, you can get a lot more tool space at upper bushing bolts. That might not help much though.
If you can cut, grind, or otherwise remove bolt heads and nut ends flush to outside of the frame clips, those clips can be spread with a hammer far enough to get the arm out.
 
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I had big problems getting the UCA's out of my 69 many many years ago. I remember it took a couple evenings of work. I think I cut away most of the bushings with an air chisel and finished it off with careful use of a cutting torch. Today's tool of choice would probably be a plasma cutter. Can you borrow or rent one?

Ironically for me, I ended up replacing the complete front sub-frame anyway because mine was too rusted. I need to rebuild my 64 front end eventually and now you've dredged up all these unpleasant memories. Hadn't thought about it too much up to now. Thanks a lot! LOL
 
mguner said:
PB Blaster and an air hammer...
Click to expand...

X3.... We usually cut one end or the other end of the camber bolt ( my preferred method is my Miller Plasma cutter) or you can also use a long shaft electric die grinder to cut the bolt or nut ends off. Definitely use a good amount of PB blaster. I use our Matco air hammer w/a modified shorter chisel (sharp point) and try to push the bolt center out, if no go, then more PB, then let it sit overnight, and retry. Good luck!!
 
I went out on three ovations to put more PB Blaster on it and give it a few (okay, more than a few) spirited strikes... to no avail. There is no good angle to hit at and I don't have a compressor at the garage yet to use my air hammer. On one side, the bolt will spin and I've tried using my biggest pry bar to get under the bolt head and pry but it isn't moving. Hopefully when I go out over the weekend I can cut the bolt head off and try to die it out at a better angle.
 
Gonna save yourself lots of aggravation if you use one of these.
So what if it stinks, it's the best thing to use.
I don't know how you guys in the rust bucket states, work on old cars without the "flame wrench"?

torch 2.jpg
 
If you have good torch skills you can carefully blow the head off the bolts to remove the cams and get to the shank of the bolts without hurting the slots and minimal rubber fire.
 
Torch has worked for me many a time.
Those bolts probably started seizing 3 to 5 years after the car was built. By the 6 to 8th year, those parts were permanently fused. You could probably put that car in a swimming pool of penetrant for 10 years and it won't help a bit.
Ok I'm guessing and exaggerating, but you get the point.
The torch will be your friend.
 
mguner said:
If you have good torch skills you can carefully blow the head off the bolts to remove the cams and get to the shank of the bolts without hurting the slots and minimal rubber fire.
Click to expand...

I agree with mguner on this reply. We have also used a torch for this, but if not careful, and the inner fenderwell is in nice shape (condition), my brother and I have taken a five gallon bucket and an old bath towel, (second person required) with ice cold water, and while one person was heating with the torch, the other person was massaging the inside (engine compartment side) with the water, but just make sure you keep the towel as wet as possible!! It has worked for us just about everytime. Also, consider this, we been working around cars, since about 10-12 year's old, and you get very experienced after so many years, of trying this and that! Good luck, and we hope you succeed in your venture.
 
I literally just got done with mine.
One of the single biggest pains in the rear ever.
I spent FOREVER using the Milwaukee "torch" blades in my sawzall.
I need torches.
Also as stated NO AMOUNT of PB blaster, Kroil oil or ATF and acetone "home brew" was helping.
I tried for a week

The "front" set cam apart no problem but I had to make a cut at either side of the bushing with the rear.
I was close to trying a hammer drill, but hammering manually was like peeing in the wind.
( I also didn't have a hammer drill )
 
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