Use a table ban saw to hack off the 340 piston crown .

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1WildRT said:
I PM'ed you shipping info,

I have a proper piston vise, I have a bridgeport mill & I have the skills to do the job properly... You need an accurate number & you need to be sure the amount you want taken off won't leave the dome to thin & subject to failure...
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I must say, you're a good dude!
 
1WildRT said:
I PM'ed you shipping info,

I have a proper piston vise, I have a bridgeport mill & I have the skills to do the job properly... You need an accurate number & you need to be sure the amount you want taken off won't leave the dome to thin & subject to failure...
Click to expand...
Good deal...will make sure the dome won't be thin! Got it.
 
1WildRT said:
I PM'ed you shipping info,

I have a proper piston vise, I have a bridgeport mill & I have the skills to do the job properly... You need an accurate number & you need to be sure the amount you want taken off won't leave the dome to thin & subject to failure...
Click to expand...
Can I just scribe a line around the pistons, and you take everything off above the line?
 
toolmanmike said:
You will need a precise measurement.
Click to expand...
A chalk line should suffice. Line up all the pistons on a bench and ping one line....easy. :poke:

5b4eb04b-fee4-483e-9585-78cca6bbec6b_text.gif
 
Why is this popping into my head?



Kinda, A mill or a band saw, bandsaw is good for you.... But I'll still use the mill...
 
1WildRT said:
Yeah, I'm thinking a number, with a decimal point and a zero attached....
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Your gonna make me learn how to use the depth gauge micrometer I have but hadn't ever had a chance or reason to use it, til now...good Lord your putting faith in my measurement...I BETTER GET IT RIGHT.
 
Ironracer said:
Just lay em back to a board to square em up, if you use masons line in the box, you'll get a tighter line. That's how I do it if it was a pallet stack of 2x4s... then just keep cutting
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....or just lay the pistons in between palings on the pallet, and free-hand cut them with a circular saw.

Make sure to use the correct blade.
 
kiwigtx said:
....or just lay the pistons in between palings on the pallet, and fee-hand cut them with a circular saw.

Make sure to use the correct blade.
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Eh, you don't need no fancy blade, just run a paneling blade backwards and go really slow........slowwww, NOOO000000! I'm Thinking he needs to take the correct # and mail em to 1wildRT... sure you can do it just about every way it's been discussed but I mean come on man we're dealing with something that's supposed to be Precision, dammit!!
 
kiwigtx said:
....or just lay the pistons in between palings on the pallet, and free-hand cut them with a circular saw.

Make sure to use the correct blade.
Click to expand...
Well, they make a 7 1/4" masonry blade. A 7 1/4" metal cut blade would prolly gum up really quick. But most the time, a paneling blade backwards for Aluminum. If we had some hard Steel on a steamroller we can heat them up with a torch flat them out and I could loan you all a set of double cuts that way you can cut it like sheet metal! Then we can make a little sand cast and keep the metal back in there and dump it in there and let it cool maybe we can mail them off to @diymirage
 
What would the compression be around, if the pistons stuck out a little bit....like a stock 340....with 65cc chambers/ also with 70cc chambers. Any one brave a guess....4" stroke crank being used.
 
Ironracer said:
Eh, you don't need no fancy blade, just run a paneling blade backwards and go really slow........slowwww, NOOO000000! I'm Thinking he needs to take the correct # and mail em to 1wildRT... sure you can do it just about every way it's been discussed but I mean come on man we're dealing with something that's supposed to be Precision, dammit!!
Click to expand...
Yeah, and as I take the time to read more about the whole plan I get concerned for the success of the project... I can cut the pistons but typically that's a .030-.040 shave... By doing the math he might need as much as .135 I haven't seen a piston you can cut that much off and not have a thin crown... As well as balance issues.....

I'll cut them but I sure won't take responsibility for them..
 
Jessearent said:
Your gonna make me learn how to use the depth gauge micrometer I have but hadn't ever had a chance or reason to use it, til now...good Lord your putting faith in my measurement...I BETTER GET IT RIGHT.
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Take the measurements over and triple check. If you ask nicely he might even tell you where to measure from and how to get everything set up if not you can probably look it up on YouTube or maybe by machinist book somewhere or even try to find a machine shop where the people are halfway decent have time to talk to you and ask him how you measure that maybe they'll you, or sounds like you need to make friends with a engine guy.
 
Ironracer said:
Well, they make a 7 1/4" masonry blade. A 7 1/4" metal cut blade would prolly gum up really quick. But most the time, a paneling blade backwards for Aluminum. If we had some hard Steel on a steamroller we can heat them up with a torch flat them out and I could loan you all a set of double cuts that way you can cut it like sheet metal! Then we can make a little sand cast and keep the metal back in there and dump it in there and let it cool maybe we can mail them off to @diymirage
Click to expand...
Remind me again why I need them ?
 
1WildRT said:
Yeah, and as I take the time to read more about the whole plan I get concerned for the success of the project... I can cut the pistons but typically that's a .030-.040 shave... By doing the math he might need as much as .135 I haven't seen a piston you can cut that much off and not have a thin crown... As well as balance issues.....

I'll cut them but I sure won't take responsibility for them..
Click to expand...
After actually doing some recalling in this thread I believe he was recommended to probably sell those and get the right Pistons I mean the creativity in the workarounds are pretty doggone redneck re-engineering science and I dig it, but man if you can get the stuff to work together the first time...
 
1WildRT said:
Yeah, and as I take the time to read more about the whole plan I get concerned for the success of the project... I can cut the pistons but typically that's a .030-.040 shave... By doing the math he might need as much as .135 I haven't seen a piston you can cut that much off and not have a thin crown... As well as balance issues.....

I'll cut them but I sure won't take responsibility for them..
Click to expand...
VERY nice gesture! I wouldn't waste your time. When his junk blows, you know who he'll blame...
 
Ironracer said:
After actually doing some recalling in this thread I believe he was recommended to probably sell those and get the right Pistons I mean the creativity in the workarounds are pretty doggone redneck re-engineering science and I dig it, but man if you can get the stuff to work together the first time...
Click to expand...
I can live with a head shim and open chamber 308 heads if the measurements are gonna get me a too thin crown/ dome. I will triple check everything.
 
Ironracer said:
Well for starters you need to learn how to take a couple different measurements if you can't get it off of YouTube or get a book you definitely want to talk to someone that can help you out there
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I have no idea what we're talking about, but ok
 
Yeah, It's a good feeling if when it's all done it runs great & you have a sense of having accomplished what everyone said can't be done...

But if at the end you saved a few $$$ over having a shop get involved but it doesn't run right or for very long... Well you might as well just burn the cash and save yourself some skinned knuckles...

I've done plenty of projects on the cheap, but I also have tools & experience on my side...
But when I was younger all I had was ideas & energy.. Kinda like Jesse...
 
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