used pricing?

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Realest

Realest

gearhead 4 life
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I am looking at a couple used A833's.

First unit is a fully assembled A body short tail shaft 23 spline non overdrive trans. Complete with bell housing (small block I assume), shifter, shifter rods, pedals, cross member, z bar, fork, flywheel, and pressure plate.

Second unit is a disassembled B/E body long tail shaft, 23 spline, non overdrive. Comes with shifter, bell housing, pedals, and possibly other parts but unsure at the moment.

My question is what are fair (ball park) prices for these unit?
 
first one if it is good working condition could have a price tag of 1,000.00 with the pedals and linkages, if maybe not more maybe 1200.00

the sencond one, if you want one for a a-body, then do not even mess with. try to buy a complete setup first. save you alot of hassle!
 
okay so i picked up all this today
Saskatoon-20111211-00060.jpg

The assembled transmission is cast iron case, not overdrive unit. I am not sure if it has the 4.354 or 4.805" bearing retainer yet as I don't have caliper at home. The bellhousing mounted to the assembled unit is wrong. It is an OD bellhousing for one of the two disassembled aluminum cases I got. Also included in this deal two sets of pedals, a second bellhousing, clutch/PP, flywheel, E/B tailshaft, and trans hump. Picked all this up for $550. I think it was a decent deal.
Saskatoon-20111211-00061.jpg

Saskatoon-20111211-00062.jpg

Saskatoon-20111211-00066.jpg


I don't know much about this hurst shifter. It is a race model? Reverse and first gear lock outs or something?
 
thats an origianal hurst ram rod shifter!!!!

Race shifter but can work on street

The shifter is pretty much Murphy proof. The best part of this shifter is it eliminates dreaded 2-3 shift of the "H" pattern shifter. A couple things I’ll add
One is, you can't lolly-gag on the 1-2 shift, meaning you have to be quick on the shift or it'll go straight to 3rd gear. However, you can do a casual 1-2 shift, but to do so, you must use the finger lift when going to 2nd gear. Otherwise the shift gate spring will engage the 3-4 gate and you’ll go straight to 3rd gear instead of 2nd. It's really no big deal, you just have to develop your own style that works for you. The 2-3 shift is as fast or slow as you want, it doesn't matter and its the same with the 3-4 shift. So basically this is how it operates:

To put the shifter into 1st gear from the neutral gate, you lift the finger lift up and push the shifter forward and then release the finger lift, you are now in 1st gear. Under normal circumstances, that's the last time you'll touch the finger lift while up-shifting. To hit second, you simply jerk "swiftly" back on the shifter, 3rd gear is straight forward and 4th is straight back again. It don't get any sweeter than that and if you had your tranny tweaked, just a slight toe tap on the clutch pedal was all that was needed to bang thru the gears To put it in reverse, you slide the shifter into neutral (no finger lift required) then push the reverse lever forward. To down shift: from 4-3, simply push the shifter forward, from 3-2, lift the finger lift and pull the shifter straight back, from 2-1, lift up the finger lift again and push the shifter straight forward and release the finger lift, now you’re ready to bang thru the gears again
 
No, you did a LOT better than alright. Every once in a while a DEAL comes along that you may never see again. That was it. Congtrats, dude.
 
Are you sure that's not an OD? Looks like the reverse tab is flipped upsidedown which is a telltale sign of an OD trans. Those other two main cases are aluminum too, which are OD.
 
I wasn't aware the reverse lever was flipped on the OD, but I know the 3-4 lever IS.
 
Its not shifting properly anyway at the moment. I think it is stuck in two gears at the moment. Shifter needs a rebuild and I will probably sell it for an h pattern shifter.
 
okay guys so input bearing retainer measure 4 3/8", i pulled the side cover off the transmission and did some gear counting. I came up with gear count like so

25-29-34-35
30-26-23-17

if i did the gear calculations properly that give me a 1:1, 1.34:1, 1.77:1, and a 2.47:1

Slant six org state "1970 T/A & AAR 340s 2.47:1 - 1.77:1 - 1.34:1 - 1:1, = 1970 thru 1974 high performance"

I think this is what I have. Any input? Good street strip unit? Decent unit to stick behind a 440?
 
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