Using mustang rotors for 4.5" bc

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Thanks for the updates.There's definitely a few things to watch out for when doing this swap.Too bad some company could'nt step up and just make a replacement hub with the bigger bolt circle but everything else the same as the mopar K-H setup.

Car looks great in the end,though.
 
i know this thread was about using the older 4 piston kelsey hayes calipers, the machining work to make those mustang rotors work was really cool and a very good idea, however i am going with the 73 up spindles as i have them handy, but this is where the A body adventure ends and the oddball non A body swapping begins. below is the rest of my swap parts

if you swap the spindles left to right you can get the calipers to mount at the rear allowing you to use a front sway bar. also a stock 77 chrysler cordoba rotor is 11-3/4" diameter, larger threaded studs 5 bolt 4-1/2" circle, and slides right onto the 73 up A body spindle. bearings, seals ETC all the same.

i plan on modifying a pair of speedway motors weld on caliper brackets designed for GM metric big brake calipers $9.99 each, making them into a bolt on bracket. a pair of 1/16" shim washers between the caliper bracket, and the spindle will space it out nicely to center up the caliper.

the "GM style" calipers are new speedway motors 2-3/4" diameter piston units $56.00 each brand new with pads, pins, bleeder, and banjo bolt.

as a side note these calipers have the bleeder and line hole the same size so the caliper can be used left or right side.

so to recap i will be running 11-3/4" diameter rotors, 2-3/4" diameter piston calipers with a better pin type retention system for the caliper rather than the stock 73 up flat metal plate system. plus i can find many more types of compounds of brake pads for the GM type caliper.

its just a thought but anybody can get them a set of the 73 up spindles and do this type of mod. you will also need the 73 and up upper balljoints too as the balljoint pins are bigger and the 73 up spindles upper balljoint mounting hole is bigger.

yes the 4 piston calipers are dead sexy but i am looking for ease of replacement parts and i am sure the 4 piston KH units are getting harder to find parts for.

think of this as just another way to skin the proverbial cat

matt
 
MileHighDart said:
Finally a pic of the final assembly,

And a pic or two with my new wheels mounted.
Click to expand...

Looking good, excellent pictures. I like your choice of wheels. It's great to hear what sort of trials people encounter doing this modification. It seems everybody has to do a little tweaking on some part, somewhere, to get them to work correctly with their application. Thanks for the update.
 
long gone thats using your head vey kool conversion,,

also the guy that made the sleeve to space the correct seal,,,thats hot rodding,,,,
 
I had the exact same idea to use the Ford rotors on my 69 GTS and just stumbled across this thread while searching to see if anyone has done it. Glad to know it works! One thing I have done to solve the seal issue was to make a steel sleeve to press on to the spindle/axle where the seal rides. I did this on my old 66 F250 truck when I converted to the later rear breaks and larger bearing hubs. There was no seal that would work so I just made a couple of steel sleeves on my lathe and hammered them onto the axle. Worked great.

My first thought to get the 4.5" BC was to redrill the 4" BC rotors but if you look at the hubs you will notice they are scalloped around the studs thus not leaving enough room to drill another pattern in between the 4" one. Filling the existing 4" BC holes with threaded plugs may work but can be problematic. The Mustang rotor is the way to go!!! Thanks for your efforts. Looks like I'm off to get some Ford rotors and get busy on the lathe.
 
fstfish66 is that englishtown pit side i see in the backround of your pic. i used to go here a lot for the swap meets and mopars at englishtown every year till i moved to west texas 16 years ago. i was there for the closing swap meet last fall tho and scored a nice bumper for my 67 cuda project. if you were there for the end of the season car show you may have seen my dads restored lil red express truck. plate number is 79 RED.

if you happen to see him at any mopar shows this coming year say hi to my pop for me his name is pat maloney

thanks
matt
 
moparmat2000 said:
fstfish66 is that englishtown pit side i see in the backround of your pic. i used to go here a lot for the swap meets and mopars at englishtown every year till i moved to west texas 16 years ago. i was there for the closing swap meet last fall tho and scored a nice bumper for my 67 cuda project. if you were there for the end of the season car show you may have seen my dads restored lil red express truck. plate number is 79 RED.

if you happen to see him at any mopar shows this coming year say hi to my pop for me his name is pat maloney

thanks
matt
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yes that is E TOWN i was asked to hang out with the hemi under glass,,, that was taken in 2001 at the mopar event,,,i have not had the car back to that show since,,, but i go as a spectator every year,,,,ill say hi if i see the 79 red,,,why texas??? and how you like it???
 
well im not sure if pop has the 79 RED plates anymore, he may be running QQs on it now. my big brother was there too looking for monte SS parts, said pop won peoples choice 1st place sunday with the truck.

as for the west texas question, i never seemed to fit in back in jersey. lived up north near newark. 154 off the GSP. got a job as an aviation maintenance technician (aircraft sheetmetal structural mechanic) working for American Eagle at their heavy maintenance base in Abilene 16 years ago and never looked back.

i fell in love with this town, made lots of friends who still say i talk funny, and call me a yankee all in good fun tho LOL. housing is cheap, cars dont rust out badly, theres still some really cool stuff in the junkyards too. recently went with a friend to pick up a 54 chevy 3100 1/2 ton pickup he is going to make into a street rod. truck sat in a field for over 30 years, and body has only has minor surface rust where it was sun beaten.

car parts locating sucks for my cuda tho. found the only 67 to 69 cuda in my local boneyard. its totally stripped. i needed a drivers door. this had one rustfree door, but the forklift they use caucht the mirror, and peeled the sheetmetal open where the mirror was bolted in. most folks passed on it, i haggled on it and got it for $35.00. i have since cut out and welded in a new repair patch for this spot and have a good useable door.

even found a rustfree and running 74 dodge dart V8 4 door as a parts car for the cuda at my local police auction. scored it for $400, used the floor pan and crossmember for the cuda, plus the V8 K frame, disc brakes, and shortblock

check my pix on FABO of my new project.

matt
 
moparmat2000 said:
well im not sure if pop has the 79 RED plates anymore, he may be running QQs on it now. my big brother was there too looking for monte SS parts, said pop won peoples choice 1st place sunday with the truck.

as for the west texas question, i never seemed to fit in back in jersey. lived up north near newark. 154 off the GSP. got a job as an aviation maintenance technician (aircraft sheetmetal structural mechanic) working for American Eagle at their heavy maintenance base in Abilene 16 years ago and never looked back.

i fell in love with this town, made lots of friends who still say i talk funny, and call me a yankee all in good fun tho LOL. housing is cheap, cars dont rust out badly, theres still some really cool stuff in the junkyards too. recently went with a friend to pick up a 54 chevy 3100 1/2 ton pickup he is going to make into a street rod. truck sat in a field for over 30 years, and body has only has minor surface rust where it was sun beaten.

car parts locating sucks for my cuda tho. found the only 67 to 69 cuda in my local boneyard. its totally stripped. i needed a drivers door. this had one rustfree door, but the forklift they use caucht the mirror, and peeled the sheetmetal open where the mirror was bolted in. most folks passed on it, i haggled on it and got it for $35.00. i have since cut out and welded in a new repair patch for this spot and have a good useable door.

even found a rustfree and running 74 dodge dart V8 4 door as a parts car for the cuda at my local police auction. scored it for $400, used the floor pan and crossmember for the cuda, plus the V8 K frame, disc brakes, and shortblock

check my pix on FABO of my new project.

matt
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matt it may be my mind playing tricks but i seem to remember the red 79 tags,,,any way glad you found a place you call home,,some of us search and never do,,,and some of us had and didnt realize we had a place to call home,,,,i use to live in the midwest,, i came back east,,,all tho the car scene here is great,,,i miss a lot of things i didnt realize about the mid west,,good luck in texas,, sounds like a great place,,,from what ive heard stil tons of live music in texas,,,
 
So I decided to give this mod a try. Bought a set of Raybestos 6004R from finditparts.com for $41.85 a piece plus only $21 shipping. Seemed pretty reasonable. They also had the inner seals for $9.33 a piece.

Got them back from the machine shop today. I had them machined down to 11.09" from the original 11.29", also had the inner race machined in .270" and it fits perfectly in the middle of the calipers. The only thing I had to do to the splash shield was take a dremel to the inside hole as it was about a 1/16" too small to let the rotor seat all the way. I will need to grind a bit on the rotor as the calipers rub a bit on the inside of the rotor between the brake surface and the hub area. Nothing a bit of grinding won't take care of. I'll take some pictures and post them up later.

All in all I'm pretty happy with this setup.
 
My rotors are on the way and the machine shop is waiting for them. I havent tried to source the seal yet but everything elso is on track. I am assembling my K-frame complete out of the car and will post photos on my build thread. Glad to have such a great resource as this site. Thanks t all!:toothy10:
 
rednesss said:
So I decided to give this mod a try. Bought a set of Raybestos 6004R from finditparts.com for $41.85 a piece plus only $21 shipping. Seemed pretty reasonable. They also had the inner seals for $9.33 a piece.

Got them back from the machine shop today. I had them machined down to 11.09" from the original 11.29", also had the inner race machined in .270" and it fits perfectly in the middle of the calipers. The only thing I had to do to the splash shield was take a dremel to the inside hole as it was about a 1/16" too small to let the rotor seat all the way. I will need to grind a bit on the rotor as the calipers rub a bit on the inside of the rotor between the brake surface and the hub area. Nothing a bit of grinding won't take care of. I'll take some pictures and post them up later.

All in all I'm pretty happy with this setup.
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I love to hear the details of this mod and how people have tweaked their particular set-up. :cheers:
 
yeeehahhh great post and thanls a lot for all the help i got without asking for it. Great grat great
 
MileHighDart said:
Next when I test fit the caliper, I had interference issues with a certain part of the caliper rubbing on the mustang rotor/hub.

First pic is of the problem area,
Second pic is after a few minutes with a disk sander and a 36 grit disk.
Problem solved.
Click to expand...

What did you do to prevent your rubber boots from rubbing on the hub of the rotor?
 
The Ford register is smaller than the MoPar. This shouldn't be an issue since most aftermarket wheels are lug centric anyway.
 
I have a set of rotors that I machined according to the info presented in this thread and if anyone wants them I will sell them for the cost of the rotors plus shipping. I decided to put this project on hold so I'd rather not have the stuff lying around collecting dust.

I paid $60.00 ea and I'm guessing ground shipping will be another $20.00 or so. If interested PM me. Thanks.
 
Wicked72ride said:
What did you do to prevent your rubber boots from rubbing on the hub of the rotor?
Click to expand...

You know I haven't quite figured that out yet. Since doing the lbp disk swap, and swapping out my rear axles and mounting up my new wheels, I started breaking the car down for paint, so I basically haven't driven it except for in and out of the garage a few times.

There is a little interference between the dust boots on the pistons and the rough outside of the unicast rotor. I figure the first time I take it for a real drive it will sand a hole in the boots where its rubbing. Not sure yet what I can do to prevent this from happening, but I'm open to ideas if you have any.
 
Bump to the top , good eye wicked72ride on the dust seals hitting the rotor , anyone that has miles on their setups care to comment on this ?

rednesss , you commented on grinding down the rotor to clear the caliper , how did that work out ? I would think that grinding the rotor will potentially throw it out of balance ?
 
I just smoothed out the very rough section that was basically still showing the sand casting. That area is anything but balanced to begin with, IMO.
 
Try brake performance, you can get real deal perfect fit replacement rotors that
are slotted and dimpled, zinc plated for about 120 a pair. Very nice, I have a set
on my Jeep and just received the set for my dart a week ago. Considering all the
extra benefits, well worth the money over a stock option.
 
Not a option for what is being done here. We are using the Ford rotors as they are very similar to the dodge parts but allow for upgrading to the bigger 4.5" bolt circle (opening up rim choices) and allowing to keep the very good IMHO KH 4 piston calipers.
 
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