Vacuum And tuning Help

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Dave is copy/paste king!.

I do agree with you, however, that it should be able to idle OK.

PS: In general MOST slants do not like more the 30 degrees to advance (without the vac adv connected).

Yeah I know but I don't YET believe his compression is where it should be, see I say and have said for a long time that the 30* timing recommendation from chrysler is directed at an 'all things matched' as in, comp/cam dead nuts cylinder pressure, which revolves the wedge chamber and maybe some other ratio..
 
look ...I'm trying to help this guy, and you wanna debate theory and opinions, meanwhile he's sht's getting faster.lol

Just help the guy!! geez..

oh and I don't care how much you think a 'slant' likes for timing.. cause all motors are not built the same.
 
look ...I'm trying to help this guy, and you wanna debate theory and opinions, meanwhile he's sht's getting faster.lol

Just help the guy!! geez..

oh and I don't care how much you think a 'slant' likes for timing.. cause all motors are not built the same.

I'm also trying to help him. First off How many slants have you built? I have been building and racing slant sixes since 1974. I also converse with many other slant six racers about what works and what does not. Chrysler does not recommend 30 degrees total advance, that is a number performance slanters have found to work best, MOST OF THE TIME. Usually when you start going more then thirty degrees total, the MPH in the traps drops off.
And if you will notice, I did not say this is all written in stone. I have stated "IN GENERAL". As you said all motors are not the same. One of the motors, I am running now, has 24 degrees advance from idle to 7,000 rpm. It has a locked distributor. It is a 170cid slant six, that has made 358 foot lbs of torque on a chassis dyno, and pushes a 3250 lb car 13.2's at 98 mph 1/4 mile.
 
I'm also trying to help him. First off How many slants have you built? I have been building and racing slant sixes since 1974. I also converse with many other slant six racers about what works and what does not. Chrysler does not recommend 30 degrees total advance, that is a number performance slanters have found to work best, MOST OF THE TIME. Usually when you start going more then thirty degrees total, the MPH in the traps drops off.
And if you will notice, I did not say this is all written in stone. I have stated "IN GENERAL". As you said all motors are not the same. One of the motors, I am running now, has 24 degrees advance from idle to 7,000 rpm. It has a locked distributor. It is a 170cid slant six, that has made 358 foot lbs of torque on a chassis dyno, and pushes a 3250 lb car 13.2's at 98 mph 1/4 mile.

what mods did u have to do to the rotating assembly to spin 7k?
 
well i want to thanks all of u for the help so far!! i just got my light springs in the mail and was looking over the "directions" that say race cars only! =P~

anyways it said remove heavy stock spring and install new light spring adv should be full around 2400. now Edd j in Paradise CA, the slant guy who helped me build this monster told me to get all in around 21-2200. so my question would be should i install one spring and slightly stretch the other?
 
ah mopar kid, a small world the internet is. You might know as the DartMan on slantsix.org. lol8). But honestly, listen to Dan and the other guys from the slantsix.org, they know what their talking about. I know the last thing you wanted to hear was the fact that your comp. ratio was too low and your carb. too big, but if your gonna ask a question you better brace yourself for the answer. I learned that in the first five minutes on slantsix.org, my build concepts were way off.
 
what mods did u have to do to the rotating assembly to spin 7k?
It's a 170 slant six, so the stroke is only 3.125" therefore, 7K rpm is easily attainable with that compared to the 225's 4.125" stroke that can only attain about 6K with a cast crank and cast aluminum rods.
 
ah mopar kid, a small world the internet is. You might know as the DartMan on slantsix.org. lol8). But honestly, listen to Dan and the other guys from the slantsix.org, they know what their talking about. I know the last thing you wanted to hear was the fact that your comp. ratio was too low and your carb. too big, but if your gonna ask a question you better brace yourself for the answer. I learned that in the first five minutes on slantsix.org, my build concepts were way off.

oh i know my comp is to low... ran out of money during the during the build and the slant with 380K miles did have oil pressure under 1500rpm so i have no choice! but yea the comp is gonna be 10:1 if not 10.2.
as for my build i was guided by an oldtimer by the name of Edd J. in Ca. he has a 12sec slant that is nasty! he totaly changed my build just in the beginning! where do u think that big nasty cam came from? those are just shy of my 564 lift 255 dur cam in my 505RB
 
oh i know my comp is to low... ran out of money during the during the build and the slant with 380K miles did have oil pressure under 1500rpm so i have no choice! but yea the comp is gonna be 10:1 if not 10.2.
as for my build i was guided by an oldtimer by the name of Edd J. in Ca. he has a 12sec slant that is nasty! he totaly changed my build just in the beginning! where do u think that big nasty cam came from? those are just shy of my 564 lift 255 dur cam in my 505RB
Alright, I was just making sure you're keeping an open mind to suggestions from those with good knowledge.:-D

Now in the spirit of mopar and the leaning tower of power, lets all :drinkers::drinkers::drinkers:
 
805, you'll be fine here.
For all those douche bag .org elitists out there listen good....
I'm working with what he has, not what I wish he had.

so get off your high horses.... like no one else can do it but you guys huh?
 
805, you'll be fine here.
For all those douche bag .org elitists out there listen good....
I'm working with what he has, not what I wish he had.

so get off your high horses.... like no one else can do it but you guys huh?

hey conflicting sites lets keep it nice... there is always good help for the norm but when trying to break a mold similar interest people come out of the wood work!
 
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