valve lash cold
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Set them at the hot spec to get the enging running, start it and warm it up, and readjust. No one can seem to agree as to whether the cold specs should be tighter or looser.
Thanks I was thinking the same it's just a pain to set them with the chart they show making 90 degree turns and adjusting. Thank you
They will probably be off if you do it that way. Check your lash more than 4 places.
That is why you start at TDC turn enigine quarter turn adjust as chart says and keep turning until all finished
By the time you crank the balancer 8 times it will be cold. Hotter widens the spec (increases lash)believe it or not. Use the spec the cam company suggests.
Not in my experience. Do what you will... I gave my charts away a long time ago.
He's checking in 8 places, not 4. Same way I've done it, zero issues.
Never use that chart to adjust your valve lash. The proper way it is don on every engine every cam is this
Do every cylinder separately
1. When the exhaust valve just starts to open adjust the intake valve
2. After the intake valve opens and starts to close adjust the exhaust valve.
You will find this procedure from every cam manufacture.
I use to keep a sticker from Direct Connection similar to the one posted above. Then after I was shown how far off that procedure was I never used it again. Try it with the chart and then check it my way. You'll see.
And much easier to keep track when your not bouncing all over the rockers from one to another.
https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/comp-cams-adjusting-hydraulic-lifters/
Do every cylinder separately
1. When the exhaust valve just starts to open adjust the intake valve
2. After the intake valve opens and starts to close adjust the exhaust valve.
You will find this procedure from every cam manufacture.
I use to keep a sticker from Direct Connection similar to the one posted above. Then after I was shown how far off that procedure was I never used it again. Try it with the chart and then check it my way. You'll see.
And much easier to keep track when your not bouncing all over the rockers from one to another.
https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/comp-cams-adjusting-hydraulic-lifters/
It is the original cam that came in the engine. This is first time it’s had any work done on it.
Iron block and heads, adjust to the hot spec when the engine is cold. I do the valves one at the time so as not to get confused. You'll never notice the difference. We're only talking about a .002" difference at the most from cold to hot. The engine will never know it. Some folks love to make things harder than they are.
So just set cold using hot specs.I will use the chart mopar came out with also that way all will be done the way they say. Heck after it’s warmed up hot I can always check it’s only a couple valve cover bolts and it’s out the way.
I've never liked that chart and never used it. Use it if you want to.
Unless the cam is HUGE [ 290 @ 050 or more, very rare ], you only need to turn the crank 2 revolutions to adjust all 16 valves, using the chart below provided by Chrys. There is a lot of sweat & knuckle grinding done using other longer methods that are time consuming & will do nothing better than the above will do.
If you want to know the hot/cold difference so you can adjust cold, do this:
- have tools ready to remove a valve cover
- get engine to operating temp
- quickly remove a valve cover, find a loose rocker & measure the lash
- come back next morning & measure the same rocker for the hot/cold difference
If you want to know the hot/cold difference so you can adjust cold, do this:
- have tools ready to remove a valve cover
- get engine to operating temp
- quickly remove a valve cover, find a loose rocker & measure the lash
- come back next morning & measure the same rocker for the hot/cold difference
Good luck with that, your engine will run. I probably check 5 times that, until they all check good. Then hot and running.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I've done mine like bewy's post. But I can get a wrench on my crank bolt.
Otherwise, you can use the ioec method explained above.
You can do as bewy said to find the difference between hot and cold settings..... or just realize that lash settings can be adjusted up to
005 off factory specs.
I've got the lash on my .557 purple shaft about .008 tighter than Mopar says.
Otherwise, you can use the ioec method explained above.
You can do as bewy said to find the difference between hot and cold settings..... or just realize that lash settings can be adjusted up to
005 off factory specs.
I've got the lash on my .557 purple shaft about .008 tighter than Mopar says.
Not sure what you mean? What I'm saying(or trying to) was he checked every 90* which is 8 "turns" (8x90=720*= 2 complete crank revolutions). I've always done it this way for solids without any issues.
All I can tell you is that having tried that chart, then checking the lash more places, I found some of the lash were off. I check about every 15 to 30 degrees for 1440 degrees. Probably only a couple thousandths off, it all depends on how picky you are. I literally found some of those Direct Connection decals and gave them away here. Having seen lobe masters, I'll continue to set lash hot and running after cold set for initial startup. After initial run in and lash, I only have to check the lash every 100,000 miles. These are not race engines.
The chart thing is a pain in the butt... i use the EOIC method.. and a $20 remote start switch makes it very fast to do, just down one side then the other...
Lobe masters?
Master lobes they grind cams with.
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