Lol, no I have yet to do anything on a slant six at work, I guess they just don't wear out like the Chevy crap
Valve seals tore on break in
- Thread starter standup303
- Start date
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Nope they just keep on going.
standup303
Well-Known Member
Just talked to the machine shop. They’ll disassemble, cut the valve guides down, install new seals, reassemble. Now I just have to find some different seals to use. Any recommendation recommendations? I would want to go more narrow than the current ones for more clearance.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I’m sure the shop doing the work can supply appropriate seals.
I would be tempted to see what machine shop recommends? They are doing all the headwork anyway?
PS, I am using seals very similar to yours, they may be the same. Mine are Qualcast?? Zero issues(400 miles) on a high lift 340 with dbl springs.
I machined down my X head valve guides and spring pads tho, with help from @Max1196
Good luck
PS, I am using seals very similar to yours, they may be the same. Mine are Qualcast?? Zero issues(400 miles) on a high lift 340 with dbl springs.
I machined down my X head valve guides and spring pads tho, with help from @Max1196
Good luck
I agree. Let the sheen shop supply the seals.
Here's my rebuild thread with seals, sorry no part #.
Restart the rebuild
Restart the rebuild
standup303
Well-Known Member
Thanks all! I’ll leave it up to them
Yep
And just FYI. I've installed seals of that nature with an appropriately sized socket for over 35 years and never had an issue.
Yep, when the inappropriate sizes socket is used is when it's bad
PRH
Well-Known Member
This is a BB 452 head.
The guide on the right is how the intakes are on these heads.
The one on the left is how both are on most castings.
When I’m cutting the guide bosses for seals/retainer clearance on 452’s I start out by removing the big base and making it like the exhaust.
Then cutting the OD of the upper part down to facilitate the use of a smaller OD seal, and shortening the height at the same time.
The guide on the right is how the intakes are on these heads.
The one on the left is how both are on most castings.
When I’m cutting the guide bosses for seals/retainer clearance on 452’s I start out by removing the big base and making it like the exhaust.
Then cutting the OD of the upper part down to facilitate the use of a smaller OD seal, and shortening the height at the same time.
standup303
Well-Known Member
There is NOTHING wrong with those seals!
When installed correctly they work EVERY time. And the garter spring? It is a great idea because as the seal wears, it keeps tension on the stem to prevent oil use.
[1] You need to pre-oil the stem & seal [ not WD40, it dries out quickly ]
[2] You need the installation sleeve that fits over the stem; this prevents tearing the sleeve during assy.
[3] You need something that fits over the outer edge of the seal to tap it in place without damaging it &/or separating it into two parts. I made a special tool for this.
When installed correctly they work EVERY time. And the garter spring? It is a great idea because as the seal wears, it keeps tension on the stem to prevent oil use.
[1] You need to pre-oil the stem & seal [ not WD40, it dries out quickly ]
[2] You need the installation sleeve that fits over the stem; this prevents tearing the sleeve during assy.
[3] You need something that fits over the outer edge of the seal to tap it in place without damaging it &/or separating it into two parts. I made a special tool for this.
I always take the spring off to install them. then put the spring back on. It’s easily damaged so why take to chance as it only takes a second to do it the way I do.
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