Here is my hole patching technique. I just use snippers to cut an approximate patch piece, hammer it flat and shape it up a little, then hold it in place with a magnet till I get the first tack in place. Easy.
Very cool butt welding technique
- Thread starter Dartfreak75
- Start date
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Here is my hole patching technique. I just use snippers to cut an approximate patch piece, hammer it flat and shape it up a little, then hold it in place with a magnet till I get the first tack in place. Easy.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
That's nice I like the magnet idea!
Danny Boy
Well-Known Member
I'm wondering if the gentleman isn't closing his eye lids right before the arc occurs to protect his eyes.
If not, I can't believe he can still see
I've seen others close their eyes to tack a single spot(spot weld)
Is this technique successfully used by others?
If not, I can't believe he can still see
I've seen others close their eyes to tack a single spot(spot weld)
Is this technique successfully used by others?
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I thought that too. But later in the video you can see him from the side its doesnt appear that he is closing his eyes. Maybe he is idk either way seems crazy to me.
Lots of good info here, I'm diving into welding and since I only have a stick machine, I think I'll try the gas welding first. I'm with the rest of you, not wearing eye protection is nuts. I had to look away while he was welding. Even on my monitor it was too bright to watch.
crvtec90
Well-Known Member
Thats Fitzee making the videos? I like him. I think he does usually wear a helmet..... just trying to weld and make a video at the same time. A lot of guys make videos that way and/or dont wear a proper respirator so that they can still talk. But yes, Safety first.
I use a piece of copper pipe. Whatever size laying around. Pound it flat on the end and bend it whatever way you like to fit behind a hole for plug welding. Hold it with gloves because it gets hot quick. Sometimes its get a bit stuck when welding hot. Just gotta wiggle it loose. Not sure if its a major issue if there is a little bit of copper stuck to the weld on the inside.
I use a piece of copper pipe. Whatever size laying around. Pound it flat on the end and bend it whatever way you like to fit behind a hole for plug welding. Hold it with gloves because it gets hot quick. Sometimes its get a bit stuck when welding hot. Just gotta wiggle it loose. Not sure if its a major issue if there is a little bit of copper stuck to the weld on the inside.
The only problem with using a flux core is that the flux is acidic.
It will be impossible to neutralize it.
Sooner or later it will appear thru the bodywork and/or paint
It will be impossible to neutralize it.
Sooner or later it will appear thru the bodywork and/or paint
I have a bunch of bodywork to get into.
My problem is that my machine came designed/set up to run 0.030 or 0.035 wire
And even then I have to change the contact tup when I change wire size.
I want to switch to a spool of 0.023" wire, once I get into the bodywork phase/ that's what I have at work with a smaller series welder. (I don't do bodywork at the job but I do so alot of exhaust welds)
Can I do this just by changing the contact tip? Or do I have to change drive rolls, the gun liner as well?
I have a millermatic 185 that I bought brand new back in 1997-98.
I burnt out 2, 110v welders before that and decided then I didn't want anything less than 220v powered machine. Never a minute if problem since I got this bigger machine. But in the last handful of years since miller and Hobart came out with ~"135"-ish sized 110v machines they seem to hold up better than the first 2 mig's I had which were 110's. We have a millermatic 135 at work that does most of what I need, if I need bigger I go to the IDOT side of the building and use their millermatic 250.
I wish I could borrow the 135 and bring it home on weekends but working for the state isn't what it was years ago. So I can't.
So can I set up my 185 for the smaller wire for my bodywork?
My problem is that my machine came designed/set up to run 0.030 or 0.035 wire
And even then I have to change the contact tup when I change wire size.
I want to switch to a spool of 0.023" wire, once I get into the bodywork phase/ that's what I have at work with a smaller series welder. (I don't do bodywork at the job but I do so alot of exhaust welds)
Can I do this just by changing the contact tip? Or do I have to change drive rolls, the gun liner as well?
I have a millermatic 185 that I bought brand new back in 1997-98.
I burnt out 2, 110v welders before that and decided then I didn't want anything less than 220v powered machine. Never a minute if problem since I got this bigger machine. But in the last handful of years since miller and Hobart came out with ~"135"-ish sized 110v machines they seem to hold up better than the first 2 mig's I had which were 110's. We have a millermatic 135 at work that does most of what I need, if I need bigger I go to the IDOT side of the building and use their millermatic 250.
I wish I could borrow the 135 and bring it home on weekends but working for the state isn't what it was years ago. So I can't.
So can I set up my 185 for the smaller wire for my bodywork?
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