Vin trouble

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That 5th digit can't be an "0"
I think aspens started with N, volares started with an H
I could have that reversed. Haven't looked at the vin on mine lately.
Looks like you bought a 78 Aspen.
5th digit is a letter that designates original engine size.
Sure it isn't a "c" which would mean a slant 6
Or a "G" which meant it originally had a 318
 
That 5th digit can't be an "0"
I think aspens started with N, volares started with an H
I could have that reversed. Haven't looked at the vin on mine lately.
Looks like you bought a 78 Aspen.
5th digit is a letter that designates original engine size.
Sure it isn't a "c" which would mean a slant 6
Or a "G" which meant it originally had a 318
Yeah, you're right, N is Aspen, H is Volare
 
@76roadrunner I think you have what the vin says you have. If the bill of sale says 76 and the vin says 78 I would go back to who you bought it from and have a new bill of sale produced. (Less complications down the road)


At this point I would forget everything you thought you knew about the car and start from the vin knowing it is a 70s car and nothing about it is a 60s car.

NOW the vin should be attached to the dash. There MIGHT be a sticker on the door pillar that would have the vin on it. There MIGHT be a tag under the hood on the drivers inner fender or rad core support that MIGHT have the vin on it.

I suspect like in the 60s and early 70s cars the VIN or partial VIN is stamped in "hidden" locations on the car. I have no idea where the F body cars have it.

If the dash VIN matches the Door Pillar sticker you probably have what the vin says. If the door sticker is missing or illegible look at the fender tag under the hood, if that is missing look for the hidden VIN stampings.

IF the dash VIN doesn't match the other VIN markings, someone did some part swapping and you MAY have issues with that.

This post has info that might help you particularly post #6.

Some of the first 7 of the VIN you posted do not align with the info in this post.

fender tag-78 dippy coupe

from a different post

1714674624035.png

N = aspin
L = low price point
2 = 2 door
9 = coupe / special
0 = does not fit the decoders
8 = 1978
2 = does not fit the decoders
 
And a truck 9 1/4 is way too big flange to flange. I'm getting "amoparlady" vibes

Edit:
Aren't 1500's axle below spring?
View attachment 1716244780
What, install it upside down?
View attachment 1716244781
Or are only the 4x4's axle below spring?
Truck is a 4x4, the axle does sit below the spring but I'm going to mounted on top the way the original was... I'm using the mounting brackets from the truck with the shock mounts from the car welded to them in the proper place. My buddy with a 3d printer is going to copy the mounting bracket as one solid piece, same for each side.
 
Truck is a 4x4, the axle does sit below the spring but I'm going to mounted on top the way the original was... I'm using the mounting brackets from the truck with the shock mounts from the car welded to them in the proper place. My buddy with a 3d printer is going to copy the mounting bracket as one solid piece, same for each side.
How are you addressing the width issues?

I saw this done before and it included cutting the axle tubes down to proper size, cutting off the axle tube ends and welding on the 8 3/4 or 8 1/4 ends in order to use passenger car axles and brakes.
 
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Aspen'Volare have pretty generous wheel wells.
Might be OK just hanging out a bit.
Especially if those arch flares are used.
People paid extra to do both those things to cars in the 70's.
 
Truck is a 4x4, the axle does sit below the spring but I'm going to mounted on top the way the original was... I'm using the mounting brackets from the truck with the shock mounts from the car welded to them in the proper place. My buddy with a 3d printer is going to copy the mounting bracket as one solid piece, same for each side.
Axle below spring, so the perches are wrong for axle over spring. Unless your solution is to run the axle upside down....... If you run it right side up, the end of that car will be sky high in the air.

As for the sentences on the mounting brackets, none of that makes any sense.
 
Axle below spring, so the perches are wrong for axle over spring. Unless your solution is to run the axle upside down....... If you run it right side up, the end of that car will be sky high in the air.

As for the sentences on the mounting brackets, none of that makes any sense.
absolutely none of this makes sense. which is why it is so fascinating!
 
Not that big a deal to move the spring perches from the top of the axle tube to the bottom. As long as the width is within reason, no reason it wouldn't work. Check that the u-joint size is the same, or, at least can be adapted. Most trucks don't have a provision for a pinion snubber if that is a concern for you. Look at the housing to see if it has drilled bosses to install one, or, you will need to make some brackets if it's something you want/need.
 
...yep
Axle below spring, so the perches are wrong for axle over spring. Unless your solution is to run the axle upside down....... If you run it right side up, the end of that car will be sky high in the air.

As for the sentences on the mounting brackets, none of that makes any sense.

absolutely none of this makes sense. which is why it is so fascinating!
 
I would definitely love to see the final result of this endeavor.
 
I built it one piece at a time and it didn't cost me a dime ...

...It's a 49,50,51,52,53,54,55,56,57,59,59 automobile.
 
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My buddy with a 3d printer is going to copy the mounting bracket as one solid piece, same for each side
I do 3D printing, unless you have metal 3d printing capabilities there is no plastic that will hold up to the constant movement/ vibrations.

Why not just do it right and remove the perches and weld proper steel perches in the proper locations and angles
 
I would call the cops and turn yourself in for receiving stolen property. Now that you admitted having a stolen car you are guilty. And you come on the internet and admit it to the world. Is your brain functioning properly? I wouldn't say another word , Your troubles are self inflicted. Like someone else said there is a guy on here that thinks he is the PO PO. Your toast now if he is watching.
Who are we talking about here?
 
I don't have a title it's an old car so it'll be pretty simple to register where I live but for 200 bucks a bill of sale was good enough for me.. I was told it originally had a slant six that would explain the lightweight rear differential and why my 360 killed the ring and pinion gears
Could a 76 Roadrunner come with a leaning tower of power? 318 or 360, but not a slant six, at least not as far as I know.
 
Could a 76 Roadrunner come with a leaning tower of power? 318 or 360, but not a slant six, at least not as far as I know.

Could a 76 Roadrunner come with a leaning tower of power? 318 or 360, but not a slant six, at least not as far as I know.
Yes.

This copied from Allpar site.


"...There was a special version of the base coupe: the Road Runner. Yes, the Road Runner moved to the Volaré line this year. Not a separate model, it was a sporty package offering Rallye wheels, E70x14 raised white letter tires, blackout grille and taillight panel, special decal stripes, black interior and heavy duty suspension. A mid-year Road Runner option was the Super Pak, featuring front and rear deck spoilers, rear window louvers and Spitfire Orange with black and yellow stripes as the only color. Popular options included vinyl bucket seats and a manual sun roof. All Volaré engines, 360 and 318 V8s and 225 Slant Six, were available in the Road Runner. A six-cylinder ’Runner? What would have been anathema eight years earlier was reality in fuel crisis times...."
 
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