Vvt lock or not

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I am using using the heads. A long block is a block and heads, a short block is just the block no heads. From what I read, the spring number given is for the 6.4 cam. I need to know if the 6.4 cam that's non MDS will work in the 5.7 with the MDS deleted or if I have to use a cam that's for an MDS engine.
 
RSM said:
I am using using the heads. A long block is a block and heads, a short block is just the block no heads. From what I read, the spring number given is for the 6.4 cam. I need to know if the 6.4 cam that's non MDS will work in the 5.7 with the MDS deleted or if I have to use a cam that's for an MDS engine.
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My bad, I misread about the LONG block. Yes, that cam will work. There is no difference in the blocks. Just the parts used or not used to make it MDS or Non MDS.
 
I was able to find everything I needed to do a cam swap thanks to the info in this thread so thank you everyone!
 
RSM said:
Just want to make sure, will the P5160074 fit the 2012 truck engines? I'm new to the Hemi and have a truck with the donor 5.7 and after reading everything it sounds like I need the springs and the 392 cam. It's going into a 71 Demon. I'm starting to collect parts...and they aren't cheap. Also, what is MDS? It sounds like the truck engines with an automatic transmission will have it. Can it be deleted and use a non MDS cam? I'm only using the long block out of the truck. I will be going with a carb style intake and a 4bbl Sniper.
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I know it will cost more money to do but you should consider a Multi port injection. I feel like the fuel distribution is gonna be terrible with heads that were designed for a dry intake. The short tight turns can't be good to keep fuel mixed. Unless the manifold is tall tunnel ram type with straight shots into the heads.
 
If you wanna buy it I'll definitely use it otherwise I'm sticking to my plan...
 
I get it. Money is always an issue. Every step is another thousand. It just seems like sticking a carb manifold on high tech motor is going backwards. If you had the truck intake and computer it could be used? I helped a buddy put a 4.0l jeep motor in to a Ford Ranger we made our own harness. Saved him few bucks.
 
I have the complete truck but not interested in the plastic intake. I'm old school and like the old school look.
 
Well for looks you need the dual quad manifold. Seems like your prefer old school set up why didn't you stick with LA small block or a 440?
 
RSM, If you are not going to use the factory ECM and use a carbureted intake with a throttle body injector and some other means of running the ignition and timing. Then the 6.4 cam is the wrong one for for what you are doing, the 6.4 cam makes its best power when set up with its full timing sweep with the VVT. If you do not run the cam that way the engine will lose power. I suggest you get a custom cam and let the cam company know you are eliminating the VVT so they can cut the new cam accordingly so it will work without it and a lockout for the VVT cam timing gear. The VVT, MDS engines are computer operated engine, and you have to converted it to a non computer operated engine.
 
I understand that and appreciate the info. Even if I don't get the full use of the cam it's still better than a stock 5.7 cam and way cheaper than a custom cam or something from Comp Cams, which I like their cams. I'm not building a high horse engine, just something to have fun with on the street and hit the track once in a while and this will fit the bill.
 
I did the 6.1 cam swap (cheap to do) on my 5.7 before I put it in my Cuda, and I also run a Mopar Performance single 4bbl intake with an Edelbrock 750 carb. I've had this setup for over 10 years now and it runs great! No fuel distribution issues that I'm aware of. I have used an Edelbrock 600 but the 750 makes more power and functions just fine on my 5.7. I am also using the MSD Hemi6 controller. I have thought about switching to a Holley Sniper TBI but the carb setup works so good I really can't justify the cost right now.
 
I've seen pics of those manifolds but I can't find any info on them. Are they still available and do you have a part number for it? I have a 4bbl Sniper to use on mine so I stay with fuel injection and I have the 6Hemi box on order.
 
RSM said:
I've seen pics of those manifolds but I can't find any info on them. Are they still available and do you have a part number for it? I have a 4bbl Sniper to use on mine so I stay with fuel injection and I have the 6Hemi box on order.
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They are hard to find now, and expensive as hell. I lucked out and got a takeoff from a crate 5.7 back when I was doing the swap years ago. If you can find one now they are about $1100! If I was doing a build now, I would probably go with this manifold;

OCPerformance Parts, LLC. - The 1st single 4bbl Gen 3 Hemi Dual Plane!

It's a dual plane, which might work even better than the Mopar Performance single plane intake.
 
Unfortunately they aren't available right now. I contacted them on Fakebook and he said he's waiting on the foundry to produce more then they have to hit the machine shop. He was hopeful it wouldn't be too long before he has them back in stock. I did finally locate info on that Mopar Performance manifold and ya...they aren't cheap.
 
I think I'll wait for the dual plane. It'll work better on the street than a single plane will. Thanks for the info!
 
Don't be afraid to run the Ritter short intake or the OC. I run a prefix manifold $650(same as Ritter) and the car runs really good. when I started my swap i had the Hemi 6 box with a Fast efi mounted to the intake ran really good. I have evolved over the years to Port injection(My son drilled my intake for port injection)the prefix has the bosses molded into it. changed to a true throttle body and the car runs even better. I used the budget friendly process. I bought what i needed saved money then sold off the old to purchase the new to lessen the cost. it was fun and learned a bunch. I would do the same way all over again.

I changed heads, cam, throttle body(went Bigger) larger injectors blah blah blah. the car is really spicy now. and still with the junk yard bottom end with new bearing.

as I have said in the past i wanted to prove to my buddies that all did LS swaps that a gen 3 is possible right out of the junk yard as well. and it is.
 
The Ritter is too tall for what I want to do. I'm hoping everything stays under the hood with the OC but I guess I'll find out. I haven't read anything where the OC/carb/air cleaner need a hole in the hood to work. I want to stay with a flat hood and factory dual scoops.
 
RSM said:
The Ritter is too tall for what I want to do. I'm hoping everything stays under the hood with the OC but I guess I'll find out. I haven't read anything where the OC/carb/air cleaner need a hole in the hood to work. I want to stay with a flat hood and factory dual scoops.
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The OC manifold is 4.85". I just went out and measured my MP manifold and it's 4.00" so you're looking at a little over 3/4" taller.

I'm running a Mopar air cleaner (the one in my avatar pic) and the base on that thing only drops about 1/2". It fits fine under the Cuda hood with a little room to spare. I think you'll be fine with the OC manifold, at the worst you might have to go to a drop base air cleaner.
 
The Ritter is around 6" so the OC and MP are a bit shorter. I'm not sure if a Demon has more air cleaner room than a Cuda does.
 
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19DART66 said:
I have not changed the push rods in my 5.7 for ether cam change, my resigning for this is the stock factory valve springs for the 5.7 Eagle have over 400 pounds per inch of spring pressure. The stock 6.4 along with the Mopar performance and the PSI 1511ml springs that I used all have spring pressures in the 380 pounds per inch range. The 5.7 Eagle and 6.4 Apache both use the same part number push rods. I just figured if Chrysler made them strong enough for the 6.4 cam and 6200 rpm shift point of that engine they should be strong enough. But many tuners and mechanics think they are not, so that is up to you to make that decision. I put the 6.4 cam and valve springs in my Challenger at around 10,000 miles and the custom cam in at around 45,000 miles, the Challenger now has over 50,000 mile on it with the rev limiter set at 6800 rpms with no problems with the engine. Now that TR6060 6spd trans that a whole nother story, I would never buy a car with one of thoughs again worst shifting trans I ever owned. Fought Chrysler throughout the whole warrenty to replace it and just bought a low mileage one to replace it( not cheap), I am not going to wholed my breath over whether its better or not
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When you replaced your valve springs with the Mopar ones did you keep the shim or washer under the valve spring? I just bought the same springs but not sure which way to go. Mine is a 14 5.7
Thanks
 
74 DART' said:
When you replaced your valve springs with the Mopar ones did you keep the shim or washer under the valve spring? I just bought the same springs but not sure which way to go. Mine is a 14 5.7
Thanks
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You should keep the shims under the valve springs, you don't want to run valve springs without them on aluminum heads.
 
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