My 76 casting 810's have both exhaust bolt patterns
W2 Heads
- Thread starter DC 340
- Start date
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If I had the W2’s that were prone to cracking again I think I would back off my torque values 5-10 pounds.
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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Only the REAL early ones had the single LA bolt pattern, they went to dual pattern right after.
I went 9.80’s on BP93 pump gas so easily with such a little bit of work. And now they are fill in my driveway. What a shame
That is interesting. My castings seemed to have a 1977 date on them compared to bigfoot's 76. I am not an expert on reading dates from heads but I saw a stand alone "77" on my heads. Looked like a month-date-clock thing on another runner. I probably did not look close enough at it all. : )
I read somewhere on here cracking on these early heads could have been caused by inadequate locating dowel pin hole depth in the head? What you think? Thanks!
Not in my case because I always set my heads on the block without head gaskets on every build I do. I learned that back in the 1990’s when I crack a 906 head after having it surfaced. I try to bring this subject up once in awhile so thanks for reminding guys.
So far mine are torqued to zero ft-lbs. Will be quite some time until mounted in my '65 Cuda (car is not ready) but I really want to run them on my 389 cubic inch stroker 340 R3 short block. Ran 10.80 @ 127 with that short block and Indy/Edlebrock heads (2.05 intakes/Indy rockers) etc.. Thread is depressing LOL...
3.71 crank?
Who did you go to for pistons?
Who did you go to for pistons?
I remember it being a 3.79 crank. R3 block, stock 340 bore. It was the only available forged crank as I remember at the time I had this motor built. Hensley (bought out Herb McCandless) actually built this motor for me around Yr 2000 or so. I swapped his cam for MP .620" flat tappet mechanical cam/my valve springs shortly thereafter. I have a notebook from Hensley. I will need to look at that for piston PN. Will let you know.
Thanks. Though it’s probably not available anymore, I have a 3.45 crank and a R3 short 9.2 deck block. Old school W2 I’m also working with.
That's an interesting engine you have rumblefish360. I checked my engine documentation and it appears my pistons were custom made by Ross so I don't have an actual part number that I can find. At this point I don't know if they are compatible with the W2 head or not. I will need to do some work to find out...
BVoelzke
Well-Known Member
I have been running the same pair of W2 heads for over 25 years , on 4 different engine combos based on 340s and a 360 and have been as fast as 10.40 in my Dart . Currently on my 367 ( 360 Magnum short block ) 10 -1 compression , 585 / 595 lift cam , pump gas motor made 527 hp. and 467 tq. and has run 11.07 easily 10.90s with a little tuning but I run on a throttle stop to go 11.50s now . When I was building my other motor : 408 stroker , R3 block with Indy 360-1 heads , I originally bought another pair of W2 heads to use but my engine builder at the time talked me out of them and into the Indy heads , based on the rocker problems I have encountered with the Indy heads I really wish I would have went with the W2s instead.... also I run the old ductile iron ( non roller ) rockers on my W2s and have never broke one .....367 on the dyno in picture
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Thanks (call me Rob) when I got the wife’s car I also got with it a 3.45 rotating assembly for a 352 CID. (Part of a buy it all or nothing deal) but the slugs will not fit the short deck. The 59* block was purchased from a member here for a very good price. It included the intake and timing cover. Heads were also purchased here on FABO for a very good price but needed some work with epoxy. A little over zelous porting broke through a wall on the intake. Easy fix if one is willing.
All in all, without an exact number, it’ll be an inexpensive race engine with the forum “On Sale” pricing.
So I’m in for Custom pistons. I’m not yet ready to jump on pistons yet, I figured I’d just ask about yours.
BVoelzke
Well-Known Member
I have broken two rockers already despite not running a lot of seat pressure and not revving the motor pass 6,500 , I have spoken to Indy and they no longer make the rockers so it was a scramble to find replacements which I was able to. Indy suggested T&D or Harland Sharp as replacements , I also sent a rocker to Hughes and they confirmed that their rockers would be an exact replacement . I haven't done anything yet as the motor is down with a cracked Eagle crank . I am running my W2 headed 367 for now.
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Wow I had five years running a .650 lift solid cam shifting at 6700-6800 rpm. Mine were the 1.6 rockers and I really spent some time on geometry. They are still going in another combo as I found a set of T&D rockers on Moparts
Hellrats
Just another dumbass
Made sure when you set those up the oiling holes for the push rods are in the correct place on the shafts. I have had to re-drill many of those from Mopar over the years. If they are not it will smoke the adjusters and cups on your push rods.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
ABSOLUTE 100% FACT^^^^^^^. There has been more destroyed valve train on the W2/5 stuff because Chrysler put the holes in the shafts in the wrong location. They are off by a MILE. Just junk.
Thats why I’m thinking of selling my brand new 1.6 rockers, shafts and stands and sucking it up and buying T&D steel rockers. I’d get stuck using push rod oiling (which I don’t like) but it’s better than cobbling that DC/MP junk **** togther.
And, if you have all your poo in one pile AND your ducks all lined up you can really only bet about .750 lift with that Chrysler system. After that, you can’t keep the valve gear anywhere near happy and you just kill parts.
I figure with T&D steel rockers I could net .825ish, shift at 7800ish (maybe lick 8k every now and then for a hero run) and make 630/640 HP on 12:1 pump gas.
I just have to be way more motivated than I am now.
Thanks Hellrats and Rat Bastid on the shaft thing. I took a cursory look at that before I bagged these up and don't remember clearly. I remember at least on the offset rocker there was 1/4" or so lateral misalignment of that shaft hole compared to that in the rocker arm. Is there another aftermarket rocker shaft available that fixes that? It would have to work with my existing stands and Norris rockers. Thanks!
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Not really. The only way I know of (and it’s what I do and it’s a PITA) is to mock everything up, leave the adjusters out and scribe on the shaft there the holes needs to be.
Then disassemble it all, and drill out the shafts. And those mother humpers are HARD.
Once you do that though you’ll never smoke another adjuster.
That’s the bad *** intake to have.
I only wish I had money to offer.
I only wish I had money to offer.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
best way to run w2 / w5 stuff is without shafts.
the Jesel sportsman stuff I ran on my W5’s was absolutely bulletproof with excellent geometry.
stands bolted to head
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
I‘m looking at T&D steel rockers for my junk. I’m just not a fan of pushrod oiling.
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