Wanting to build a garage (Need advice)

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If local codes limit you to a 10' side wall you may concider rafters over the area where you intend to put the hoist, and storage trusses or floor joists over the remaining area to allow for some storage.
Another thing you may want to think about is a floor drain. Even if it is just a trough with a drain tile, you definitely will not regret it.
 
It's always interesting to see posts of this nature and see who knows what. Some good input to say the least. Here's my experienced take on what was asked and what has been said. Yes i have a shop. A lift is something i dont own however when i did build the shop i did have an idea that someday i would own one so i made provisions for the future in this manner. 10' walls with the intire cieling being a cathedral type as i didn't need attic storage. The exterior pitch is that of a 6/12 and the interior is a 3/12 allowing me a 13' peak heigth. Plenty adequate to do what your asking for. As far as my take on OSB vs Plywood. I've noticed the delamination of plywood and much prefer the OSB. As far as the truss spans and centers keep this in mind. Most cities have codes and they have codes that pertain to design criteria on trusses so the truss manufacturer is required to build an "Engineered" truss for the load that you will be requireing so to say that a 16" center is stronger than a 24" center truss is irrelivent. Granted the truss designed to be placed on a 24" center will be more expensive, but will do the same job as any other truss designed for your requirement. On 16" center trusses i will use 7/16" only with clips. If i use the trusses on 24" centers i will NEVER go less than a 5/8" OSB with clips. Consider this. Make a bay with the cathedral cieling for your lift, then do the remainder in the trussed storage area. nothing less than a 200 amp panel. As i'm doing an expansion i will piggy back off of my existing 200 amp for an additional 200 amp in the new section. It's never all running at once so it is safe even tho there are those that will scream foul. Knowing what my requirements will dictate i feel safe with this method BUT would never do so on a client job as they may max it out even though they told you they never will and then guess whos fault it will be. Lots of light also. No less than 2 220 breakers for the welder and the compressor. Might need one for heater and AC. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress. Dont forget the bathroom. Now in progress at my shop.
Small Block
 
I forgot the toilet. Install the plumbing 1/"4 under the slab. get it final inspected, then rent a small backhoe and build own septic tank and drainfield, on weekend, while inspectors are off, lol.
 
The big thing for me (all the rest are good ideas too) is lots of lights. In my shop I used 8 watt high bay lights. They are an 8 foot fixture with superior reflection abilities as well as at 4 - 4 foot tubes per section they only use up 32 watts per fixture. The initial cost is higher, but I'm pretty confident the price of electricity isn't going down. In addition, your hoist will probably be near a wall and I would recommend some 8 foot vertical lights running floor to ceiling near the hoist - helps a lot.
Daryl
 
PacificScamp said:
I've built houses for a living and must disagree with you on just a few points.


1. The 24" spacing saves building materials and when properly designed leaves no added risk. Some builders have been using 7/16" OSB for roofing; even on 16" centers with clips, this often leaves a wavy roof. 1/2" plywood with clips will span 24" centers with noticeably less wave.

Must be the different areas we live in. It may be the humidity that makes the plywood sag. It is against our local building codes to build a structure on 24 inches if it is any type of dwelling.

2. The wood of 20 years ago is virtually the same as the wood of today, with the exceptions that grading has gone down approximately one whole step over the past 50 years and, dimensions have been reduced slightly to provide more yield per log.

It is the same wood but what was a number 3 grade 10 years ago is now a number 2 grade. Garbage wood that would have been used a criples is now number 3.

3. Oriented Strand Board is highly absorbing; exposure to inclement weather will cause it to swell. Often times it is not noticeable unless you are measuring it or trying to install the above-mentioned roof sheathing clips. Plywood can also have issues with wet weather, mainly with the top ply bubbling after being left in rain storms. Compared side-by-side, plywood has a MUCH greater strength both in shear and compression.

Yes, it will swell but like I said put them both outside for 6 months and see which one is the best. Plywood will delaminate while the OSB will swell on the edges and some pieces will start to flake off.

4. Not a disagreement, just an added note. Asking the concrete provider to add fiberglass will increase the strength of your concrete tremendously. It is often used as a replacement for mesh (not rebar).
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I think this is one area that we will just have to agree to disagree and let it go at that.
 
I built a 24 x 24 a few years back and of course I wish it were twice that size. We have 10' walls, I don't think it would be enough to put in a full lift but you could use cathedral type trusses like Small Block suggested. We used trusses and I placed them on 16" centers even though 24" was called for, it called for an extra 3 or 4 trusses and only added a couple hundred bucks to the cost. The result is that every truss sits directly over a stud and with a full upstairs I feel much more comfortable walking around up there. Roof pitch is a 10/12, upstairs is 10' wide by 7' high in the center. There is also a 5' x 10' tool room on the back side. Ours was built with two uses in mind, a woodworking shop and an auto shop.
A couple items we might do differently. I put the compressor in the back tool room. When it runs it will heat the room too hot, even with the door open. I have installed a fan through the ceiling to draw in outside air to ventilate and cool the room. If the compressor is going to be running for any length of time I have to turn the fan on.
I plumbed several (5) air line drops around the shop. This is way overkill. Since I have a filter on the drop furthest from the compressor this is the only line I use. Electrical outlets, I have plenty, but only two 220's - one for the compressor and one at the front for a space heater. I don't have a 220 welder and probably won't. If I can't do it with my mig, I can at least tack it together and carry to a professional shop. I've yet to have any project that my 110 mig wouldn't do.
With a metal roof I only used 2 x 4 purlins on the trusses. Side walls have OSB on the outside (1/2" maybe). On the inside I sheathed the walls with 3/8" plywood and painted the inside white. The plywood allows me to hang anything anywhere; the white paint reflects all the light and makes it a much more well lit shop to work in. I have 3 rows of florescent lights on 3 separate switches.
Overall I've been very happy with our shop, just wish it were larger!
More pics upon request.
 
All I can say is this. You could build it 2 miles by 2 miles with 1000' foot tall walls. The next day you will cuss that you didn't make it bigger. Its just the nature of the beast.
I would also HIGHLY recommend talking to a real estate guy to make sure that a move might not make more sense. Sometimes its better to find a place configured how you like it rather than spending oodles of dough to upgrade the current abode.
That's what I ended up doing 10 years ago.
I was going to build a $60K building in my backyard that would have increased my property value by about 10% of that. So we bit the bullet and moved to the country. Got LOTS of buildings now.
 
I love this shop/garage issues as it gives us all better ideas on ways to improve what we are building or already have. Even seeing the different ideas in work areas or benches....even the signs on the walls. We will NEVER get it right but we wont never quit trying either. If we did we wouldnt have anything to do. Oh well. Good posts guys.
Small Block
 
I am in no means a contractor, but am the type that will try anything myself if I can. My garage which is 22x23 I bought from a developer who was demoing an old house, and the garage on site was for sale. $500 bought it. $1300 to move it and I excavated for the pad. Concrete laid and played was $1200. Right now I am re-shingling the roof. It had 2 layers on it and I wanted it to be brought to bare wood to see what had to be replaced. 3/8 ply on 24" centers. I had to replace a few pieces so I had to stick with 3/8. I wasnt too comfy up there being 230 + lbs and walking on 3/8. My suggestion is 5/8 ply if you are going 24" centers. The reason I had to replace my ply was the previous owner didnt didnt use ice and water shield. Use the ice and water shield for sure.
For lighting I was going to run fluorescents vertical or horizontal on the walls, but I have too much shelving in the way. If you can run lots of lights on seperate switches, it will hlep save the hydro. I agree with what Smallblock said, we will NEVER get it right, but we have a lot of fun in our projects. Good luck.
 
Small Block said:
I love this shop/garage issues as it gives us all better ideas on ways to improve what we are building or already have. Even seeing the different ideas in work areas or benches....even the signs on the walls. We will NEVER get it right but we wont never quit trying either. If we did we wouldnt have anything to do. Oh well. Good posts guys.
Small Block
Click to expand...

No kidding, I've learned so much in this thread so far. The few things I suggested didn't even scratch the surface of all the things to consider lol...
 
I won't be happy till my garage is 2 miles by 2 miles with 1000' side walls!!!LOL!!! Now that was funny!!! AND, it'll still be too small!!! Geof
 
Make sure you add a phone line(ADT security) and cable for tv. 200 amp service with plenty of extra breaker space. The one thing I wish I had in my garage is a little laundry tub for washing hands. MMG
 
I would use truss for the roof and have the bonus room designed into it. The load you plan for the bonus room upstairs will determine the truss design and spacing. 24" spacing will require 5/8" min. sheathing.12' walls will require 2x6 studs under the International Building Code. 4" in. of concrete with fiberglass reinforcment will serve your purpose if you aren't backing a tandem dump in every day, concrete generally cracks from lack of proper expansion joints, not from load, just thicken the entrance way. Not my opinion just based on my experience after 40 years as a custom home builder. You could also build a pole buiding with proper truss and use 10' walls with ladder framing inbetween the girder truss and just raise the floor over the bay for the lift.
 
Thanks for all the great tips guys! I have not been on in a while but just read them all. I appreciate it. I should be starting the garage in the next two weeks. Going back to 16" O.C. with engineered trusses for attic storage. 26x36 in size, 10' walls. Wish I could afford to make it bigger but I originally planned for a 2 car and am getting this. So it is bigger then originally planned... :) On that note, I am going to be selling my 70 Plymouth Satellite to help fund this project. I bought it earlier this summer and have been driving it on weekends to local cruises and shows. If anyone is interested, in seeing the car, I have a link to over 80 pictures. Ill be putting this in the for sale section as well. Thanks again to all that have helped! Linky to pics: http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o145/suregrip391/1970 Plymouth Satellite/
 
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