Water Leak question...

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dkamp

dkamp

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On a 318 I finally tracked down my water leak. its coming from the water pump bolt that has exposure to the water jacket.
I tried tightening it, but if that does not work what have others done to avoid a leak?
The picture shows a Red circle on the bolt that is leaking. My Power Steering Bracket is partially blocking that nut.
Any suggestions will be appreciated. I'm getting ready for a long drive to get to the Frog Follies show in Evansville.
David

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The biggest problem is the coolant is getting past the threads on the block or the gasket. Either way it will rust the bolt over time and make getting the bolt out in the future a huge pain.

There is specific thread sealer for this type of application and I would (as much as it is a pain in the butt) pull the PS gear brkt and remove and reinstall the bolt with the correct sealer

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it goes on like Loctite. Drain down the coolant to below the level of the bolts, remove the offending ones and clean, reseal, and reinstall. if it still leaks there, the gasket is the issue.

What you don't want is coolant getting into the oil which can happen if the gasket is toast

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if cleaning it and resealing it does not resolve the issue, it's time for a tear down. hopefully you can get away with just gaskets, but prepare yourself in the event that the cover is corroded and needs repair or replaced.
 
I will do as Dana67dart described if I can locate that High Temp Thread sealant.
That sounds like a good plan, Thank you.
Moparmarkk I've not heard of using tape on the threads before? are you referring to a Teflon tape?
 
What other bolts should I remove, Clean, and add sealant, or leave them alone if not leaking?????
 
dkamp said:
What other bolts should I remove, Clean, and add sealant, or leave them alone if not leaking?????
Click to expand...
The 4 around the water pump hole (circled in photo post 3)

I would do one bolt at a time as each bolt, clamps the water pump to the timing cover and to the block.

VERY IMPORTANT...

Be sure the bolts go back into the same hole they came out of. If those bolts are too long they can and have cracked the cylinder walls of the front two cylinders. A stiff wire like coat hanger, inserted into the bolt holes with all the accessory brackets installed can verify what the max length can be.
 
That Permatex **** works! I didn't have much faith in it, but I did all the wp bolts, as well as all the coolant hose fittings and all valve cover bolts. Not a drop. Previously I would use rtv, and that was a waste of time/money on valve cover bolts.
 
I replaced the 4 long bolts that pass thru the water jacket and found what surprised me.
First on all 4 bolts, the outer surface to the first threads were all very near 4 and 3/8". I pushed a stiff wire into all the holes and the depth on them was very close to 11". 11 inches seemed pretty deep to me. Does that sound OK?
 
dkamp said:
First on all 4 bolts, the outer surface to the first threads were all very near 4 and 3/8". I pushed a stiff wire into all the holes and the depth on them was very close to 11". 11 inches seemed pretty deep to me. Does that sound OK
Click to expand...
11 sounds like the wire bent around the cylinder

4 3/8 sounds right

Another way to do it is make a small "L" hook on the end of the wire. Put it in the hole then pull back out till it catches on the inside of the hole in the block.
 
Your first picture shows a newer water pump but here is a pic I saved from elsewhere on this site. It shows an older water pump but has the bolt lengths on it.

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This is real simple
Every bolt has the same basic thread-engagement requirement when NO BRACKETS are used.
With every bracket that is installed, the bolt needs to be that much longer, to maintain the thread engagement.

Some bolts pass thru just one bracket, some thru two.
And if you do what I do, which is use the slanty cupped intake washers, in various spots, then you gotta add length for that as well.

When the bolts go into aluminum, be careful not to overtighten them.
 
AJ/FormS said:
This is real simple
Every bolt has the same basic thread-engagement requirement when NO BRACKETS are used.
With every bracket that is installed, the bolt needs to be that much longer, to maintain the thread engagement.

Some bolts pass thru just one bracket, some thru two.
And if you do what I do, which is use the slanty cupped intake washers, in various spots, then you gotta add length for that as well.

When the bolts go into aluminum, be careful not to overtighten them.
Click to expand...
Really? So you drill the cupped slant 6 manifold washers out from 5/16" to 3/8"? You left that part out.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yes I surely did.
Click to expand...
that sounds... tedious.

and kind of defeats the purpose, no? i mean, i understand wanting a specific type of securing washer, but wouldn't that entirely change the engineered properties of the fastener? less meat, less resistance, less clamp, etx, etx? (i'm not a mechanical engineer)

so i guess my question is why?
 
junkyardhero said:
that sounds... tedious.

and kind of defeats the purpose, no? i mean, i understand wanting a specific type of securing washer, but wouldn't that entirely change the engineered properties of the fastener? less meat, less resistance, less clamp, etx, etx? (i'm not a mechanical engineer)

so i guess my question is why?
Click to expand...
The purpose of the cupped washers on the slant 6 manifold is to allow the manifolds to actually move a very slight amount to keep them from cracking from expansion and contraction due to temperature changes. I wouldn't think you'd want a water pump to MOVE, but maybe he's found something new no one else knows about.
 
Solid clamp-load, no deformed regular washers dropping into adjustment slots; ring a bell?
I use them wherever I can, like on alternator brackets, carb bases, etcetera; anything that needs periodic adjustment or repeated removal.
I thought it was a great idea! but if you think I should go remove them .......... lol.
 
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