Water pump engine mount 440

-
Fixed yet? If not you need to know if your losing coolant that leads to overheating or not. Drain all coolant. Raise front of car. Refill,measuring how much it takes. Run it till it gets hot. Not so hot that it pukes. Let it cool than drain all coolant measuring how much you recover. If you lost any coolant start looking for the leak.
 
from the looks of that ground strap on the plug pictured you need more timing. too late of a timing event is a major contributing factor in over heated engines. that discolor on the ground strap needs to be in the middle of the 09* bend. plus the carb is way too rich. make sure you have the big spring in the lower radiator hose.
 
Joep said:
Hi everyone, I'm in the process of taking apart the cooling system in my 440 to inspect it and I've ran into a little problem. I'm working on the water pump housing now and it looks like the motor mounts are I'm between the water pump housing and the block. So in order to take the water pump housing off I have to unbolt the motor mount and I'm terrified that the motor will come crashing down. Am I being too worried or is there another way to do it?
Click to expand...
Man, i kid you not i LITERALLY ran into the same problem just today.. Lol accept mine fell because i wasnt paying attention to the fact that i had no engine mounts. Surprisingly it dodnt put a single dent on anything though... that could have just been luck though. All i did was sat a chunck of 4by4 under the pully and cranked it back up with a bottle jack. Worked just fine and after jacking it i just popped the water pump bolts back in and it helt it there just fine.
 
Easy fix is to use studs rather than bolts for the water pump. Then you can pull the pump off and the engine will hang from the studs. I used to change the camshaft in the car that way.
 

Attachments

  • 10 (Large).jpg
    41.6 KB · Views: 138
I'd go with checking the radiator if you have a rusted pump I'd guess with its age there been rust from the block as well good chance of some blockages in the rad. Get someone to remove the end tanks and rod it.
 
Hi guys, sorry about the long wait. But here's what I've done
I brought the radiator to one of my buddies shop and to him it was clogged with rust. So I ended up buying a new radiator, electric fans and aluminum shroud from champion. It is a 3 core 26 inch aluminum radiator. 2 12 inch electric fans also wired up to a thermostatic switch. I just got the hose I needed to finish it up and then I can see if it works. The only thing I don't like about the new setup is that the clearance between the fans and the water pump pulley bolts is very very very slim. But it clears...will hopefully fire it up tonight and will let you all know
 
So fired it up tonight and it worked pretty we'll as far as the radiator goes. As far as fans I wanted to see if I had them wired up right so that they would come on when it warmed up and they didn't. I had I shut if off around 200 because the water was starting to boil so I didn't want to go much further. But I don't know why the fan didn't turn on. I had it wired the way that the instructions said and nothin. I took a voltmeter to the circuit breaker that came with the kit and it was "broke" so to speak, 12 volts was going in but nothing was coming out so no power was getting to the relay. Any ideas?
 
a clogged radiator... argh'
hope you get your fans to start up and get her going again...

good luck .
 
We'll i checked the breaker this morning and it was working again must be one of those ones that automatically resets. I'll try it again tonight hopefully. See how it goes
 
i just seen this thread and here are some things to look at.
1) lower hose colapsing
2) ignition timing can cause this also . to far advanced or to late will make it run hot.
 
Both hoses have springs so they can't collapse. Timing is at 16 initial so that shouldn't be a problem either. I think once I get the fans working then it should be fine. If not then I've got bigger problems to deal with..
 
I ran it again tonight and the fan turned on and then off very quickly. I checked the breaker again after and it was broke again so something keeps shorting out. Could I have the breaker wired backwards? There are no markings on the breaker itself but the posts are different lengths, I had the power going to the tall post and power out on the shorter post. Is this wrong?
 
Just figured out that the breaker was garbage. It kept going on and off on and off. So I tried running a fuse instead and it works much better. The thing stayed right at 190 with everything right just running in the garage. I just have one question, are the fans supposed to turn off and on at a specific temp? They turn on at 190 but don't turn off when the car cools down unless I hit the switch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top