weeping rear brake lines

[22dog22]

keep having a problem with the stainless steel brake lines wepping where they go into the rear brass disterpurtion block on the rear axle housing have the line as tight as I can get them but they still weep brake fluid, brakes are firm any ideas as to how to stop the weeping? I was thinking of pulling the stainless steel lines and just install steel lines

 

[toolmanmike]

Wish I had a answer. Stainless is very difficult to seal.

 

[OL DODGE]

Was the rear brake hose re-used when the new stainless lines were installed? Brass is soft and the "seat" where the line seals can get crushed from the original lines. Then when you go and change lines(that had a good mating ) they no longer seal perfectly. Stainless can be a rascal to deal with. I do most of the brake line jobs at our shop( to date I've used 381 25 foot rolls of copper/nickle/iron(called cupro) brake line and 128 25 foot rolls of steel. I'm not bragging-just stating my experience.
I've done more than a few stainless kits and by far the best sealing material is the cupro stuff. If changing the hose doesn"t help or it"s already been changed maybe try the cupro stuff-it flares well,is easy to bend and will never rust out. It polishes up nicely too! I hope my blabbering helps......

 

[tallzag]

I've had terrible luck with the stainless lines and always use steel now. If you can't fix it from the above good advice I'd replace it.

 

[ir3333]

usually you tighten firm..loosen and retighten 3 or 4 times.
..idea being each time you improve your fit in stages until fit is matched.

 

[67Dart273]

One thing you might try, and this is just a "try it" is the flare "gaskets" made in copper for HVAC. However, I have no idea where you'd get them in 3/16

Actually...........this chart lists them in Parker

 

[Mopar Tim]

One thing you might try, and this is just a "try it" is the flare "gaskets" made in copper for HVAC. However, I have no idea where you'd get them in 3/16

Actually...........this chart lists them in Parker

This is the ticket. I have used before on HVAC.

 

[nm9stheham]

As suggested, try a new block to get fresh sealing surfaces.

 

[toolmanmike]

One thing you might try, and this is just a "try it" is the flare "gaskets" made in copper for HVAC. However, I have no idea where you'd get them in 3/16

Actually...........this chart lists them in Parker

Those are slick.

 

[67Dart273]

The primary reason I know of these is my HVAC service. Schrader valves are traditionally a 1/4 SAE flare, and when you put a dust cap on them the dust cap "should" have a flare washer inside. 99.99% of them don't, and if they are tightened very much at all, the cap will damage the flare fitting and make removing the Schrader core (tire valve) difficult or impossible

These kind have a rubber o ring and are "finger tight"

However, most these hex caps (typically OEM) don't, and if overtightened, "are" a problem

 

[BillGrissom]

In aerospace, we call those copper (or aluminum) washers "soft seats" or "Voishon washers" (a manufacturer). They are even thinner than above and work to high pressures. I know they exist for 1/4" tube sizes, but not sure about 3/16". Aerospace uses a lot of stainless flare fittings, so leaks are not unusual. In a pinch (on my cars, not aircraft!), I have stuck a thin O-ring in a flare fitting, but that has been for power steering or such, not for more critical brake lines.

 

[Purple Haze]

usually you tighten firm..loosen and retighten 3 or 4 times.
..idea being each time you improve your fit in stages until fit is matched.

This first, if that does not stop it replace the axle fitting and repeat the above procedure.