Weight Transfer and Suspensions

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OK.........Guys, try the "Poor Boy" traction aid. In the early 70's (yes, I'm that old), Chrysler forbid us from using any traction devices other than SS Springs and snubbers, if we wanted any support from Chrysler.

What many of us did is use flat iron and clamp it on top of the front section of the springs. The purpose was to take out any flex in the front section of the spring. Use as thick of flat iron as you can find, and make it as long as you can and still fit.........You can probably built the entire pieces for around $25.......let me know how it works.
 
Just saw my thread is still alive, good stuff. A few have asked what I've been running previously but I cant really say.
The Sefus dart hasnt seen a track since 01 and that was with the previous owner and a 300K mile 318/904/2.73 geared 7 1/4 rear.

Fast forward about 8 years and too many dollars later and its a 10.5:1 edel head 360, 3800 stalled 727, 4.10 spooled 8 3/4 minitub on ET Streets.

So untill some test and tune I really have no basis to go off of other than what others are doing. Other than small adjustments to make it work as good as it can, I am sticking with the 40 year old tech as it works and I am tired of changing things on this car and want it to be done with it. Goal is a mid to high 11 second track timed weekend driver.

-Sefus
 
Hi guys! I am new to this site so this will be my introductry post.

Except for tubular control arms and adjustable shocks on the front suspension, I have not read any more useful information pertaining to this area of the chassis. There a few tiny details in the front suspension that people tend to over look. People get so caught up on the rear suspension they forget about the front.

Heres a hint! Suppose after you have removed as much weight from the nose of the car as possible and you tried to lift the nose of the car from the bumper, it is lighter but how much resistance, not weight, do you feel from the suspension? Think friction.

Just my two cents.
 
I have a 70 duster with magnum k frame wildwood brake,and front coil overs. The car is back halfed with ladder bars dana w.4.56 koni coil overs out back. The car has glass bumpers and hood. The moter is a 440 30 over ,13 to 1 aries pistons fill fit low tension rings eagel h beem rods, 440-1 indy alum heads fully pory and polished.1050 holley.the cars weights 2932. Im working on trying to get it to 60 ft better.Only 9 passes on the car and its getting faster ever pass.The magnum force k frame is ok it does push the front tires out wider a little.
 
I always liked the SS springs on a low budget car. I ran the 002/003 on a 71 Scamp 446/1050 dominator and a pair of Dvorak max wedge heads. 8 3/4 spool with 5.13 then changed to 4.88's. It would 60' 1.31 to 1.34 ran 6.20's 1/8. I noticed one day when i was under the car that the rear was wrapping so hard the front of the shocks were dented from housing contact. So I installed an adjustable snubber, end of problem. I was running 29x 10.5W slicks. No it doesn't compare to a 4 link, but then it didn't cost as much.
 
fourspeed70 said:
I have a 70 duster with magnum k frame wildwood brake,and front coil overs. The car is back halfed with ladder bars dana w.4.56 koni coil overs out back. The car has glass bumpers and hood. The moter is a 440 30 over ,13 to 1 aries pistons fill fit low tension rings eagel h beem rods, 440-1 indy alum heads fully pory and polished.1050 holley.the cars weights 2932. Im working on trying to get it to 60 ft better.Only 9 passes on the car and its getting faster ever pass.The magnum force k frame is ok it does push the front tires out wider a little.
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Oh and Welcome to a great site!
 
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