Welding on my dash frame question

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70SwingerGuy

70SwingerGuy

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So I MAY have to get someone to come in and do a little spot repair welding on my dash frame, I say maybe because I havent fitted my radio yet into the hacked up frame that some previous idiot owner caused.
My question is, is disconnecting the battery enough to prevent current from the weld from frying my electrical periphials? Obviously assuming that the weld ground would be located as close as possible to the weld area.
This would be a 120V mig or tig, and not a 220V arc weld of course :)
Thanks in advance!
 
Assuming we are talking about a 70 swinger, I would not lose any sleep over it. Computer fitted outfits require a bit more discretion.
BTW, they do make very effective glue for metals.
 
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Bodyperson said:
Assuming we are talking about a 70 swinger, I would not lose any sleep over it. Computer fitted outfits require a bit more discretion.
BTW, they do make very effective glue for metals.
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Thanks! Oh ya, def my 70 swinger. I thought about the metal adhesives, just wasnt sure if it would be strong enough since I would need it in the radio bracket area.
 
@Bodyperson since Ive been out of the trade for awhile, perhaps you could recommend a good metal glue/filler that I could use to make an enlarged hole smaller for retapping of a small screw, one of my hood pin holes, and another where my under the steering column cover fits. JB Weld is the only thing that comes to mind, and I really dont want to weld in those areas if I dont have to.
 
Steel pop rivets.

Or the forever strong "Huck Rivets" used in the Peterbilt/Kenworth cab and sleeper assembly process. Even come with optional flush fit heads if clearance is a problem.

No electric discharge on your rare classic components.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
I used 3M panel adhesive to put the transmission tunnel back in my car when I did a T56 swap. I had a welder in my hand and was staring at the floor in my car and realized I was about to make a dumb decision welding it myself, lol. No one would accuse me of being a welder in my off-time, though I have stuck a few things together with a Northen Tool 110V welder that have at least stayed together so far.

That panel adhesive is pretty nice stuff. Comes with a fancy nozzle that auto-mixes it when you dispense it, but you need to buy a fancy caulk style gun to use it. Seems to have held up just fine so far, though I haven't torn the car apart to specifically inspect it since I did it many many years ago.
 
70SwingerGuy said:
@Bodyperson since Ive been out of the trade for awhile, perhaps you could recommend a good metal glue/filler that I could use to make an enlarged hole smaller for retapping of a small screw, one of my hood pin holes, and another where my under the steering column cover fits. JB Weld is the only thing that comes to mind, and I really dont want to weld in those areas if I dont have to.
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I use Lord Fusor. 3m, Sem Products, they are all good. We tested the Fusor. We glued 2 welding coupons together and pulled them apart on the frame rack. The metal failed. The overlapped glue joint was stronger. There are glass beads in the glue that significantly reduces the possibility of over clamping the products ability to squeeze out. You can hear it crunching when you clamp it. Adequate clamping is a must. Plastic filler does not like to stick to it.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Pictures?
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Looks like an idiot who owned her before me cut out the radio section of a different dash frame so he could fit a 73 style radio and bezel into her. Ive to do some serious figgerin here, either cut out the hole sections in a square so the thumbwheels fit and hope that mangled top mounting bracket can be straightened so its useable; at least the lower mounting hole hasnt been butchered. Or I look for a donor 1970 dash frame to either cut out the radio section and weld it in, or just replace the entire frame considering I would have a donor frame anyways......
By the way, if the previous owner of my car happens to see this and recognizes his old car in my avatar, id like to kick you in the head.
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Oldmanmopar said:
That does not look good at all. I have several but I am in Pennsylvania. Shipping would be High.

View attachment 1716346768
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Nope it doesnt, quite the hackjob that previous guy did. And dang, you are right, depending on what you would want for one of course would determine if the cost of shipping would be worth it. I may post a wanted ad and see if there is one closer to me in Canada. Im pretty sure I could make what I have work, but my anal nature is getting the best of me. No jokes from the peanut gallery please :rofl:
 
What do you think the weight would be for a frame only? But Im thinking it might be cost prohibitive, especially with the exchange right at what it is right now. But I do appreciate the offer to help
 
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I have some stripped. I have to finish cleaning backing plates for a member and then cut up and split fire wood for the garage. I'll weigh one after that. They are pretty light when they are empty.
 
Bodyperson said:
No, its not designed for that, It needs a lap joint. I realized a little late what your objective is and this panel bonding glue is probably not the product you need.
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Nope, all good! Thats just one of the few uses I may have for it, so I appreciate all the info you gave :)
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Check reverse shipping and make me a total offer for a bare frame. If I can help I will. No vin tag will be included. You are 2000 miles away.
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Did some checking.... Canada Post wont ship it cause its too large, so I went with UPS, and with a rough size and weight , it was almost 500 CAD to ship to you, so ya, definitely too much, Ill have to source one out in Canada closer to me. But thanks, I appreciate the help :)
 
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