What's the scoop with the Serdi? Good for the intakes but not the exhaust or just the opposite. I read something to that effect.
What's the scoop with the Serdi? Good for the intakes but not the exhaust or just the opposite. I read something to that effect.
View attachment 1715680104
I don't remember who said it. Someone here. That was a lot of threads ago. LOLAre you sure you aren’t thinking about radius’s on the valve job? Do not radius the intake side, ever.
PBR, would these be capable of opening the seat from like a 2.02" valve to a 2.055"? Juist curious
that’s a lot of meat to remove
I wonder if something could be rigged to use a hand held drill or drill press- at least for chamber relief cuts and bowl hog cuts, then come back and do the 3 angle by hand?
When I do something like that I’ll use rubber fuel line as a flex drive between the tool and motor to reduce the influence of any misalignment. Easier than u joints and spherical drives.Only if you can get it square and rigid.
I get that this is an older post but I believe that my question will be answered here. Does the newer India carbide cutter work with the older Sioux "cutter holder"? I see threads inside the cutter and I'm curious if the threads are the same between the tools.
View attachment 1716165249
View attachment 1716165250
Thanks for getting back. I have some 516 heads that I want to try and use cutters to inlarge the exhaust from 1.60 to 1.74.These are pretty much made to be used by hand. A few turns by hand and it’s cut. My mind isn’t made up on these as shortly after I bought a valve and seat machine. About the only one I use is the 70 degree cutter on my speedmaster or Edelbrock exhaust
Those cutters are so crude!
That is the problem with machine shops in Denver. Way too stupid busy and can't be bothered with a small job. My thoughts are to use the cutter to get close to the diameter I need then use grinding stone to finish it.If you have a local shop strip and clean the heads and ask them how much they would charge to do it. My local shops machine shop closed so I was forced to buy my seat machine but they used to charge me 8-10.00 per hole. Might be worth checking but I would recommend having them as clean as you can get them.
That is the problem with machine shops in Denver. Way too stupid busy and can't be bothered with a small job. My thoughts are to use the cutter to get close to the diameter I need then use grinding stone to finish it.
Thanks for the input. By chance do you have a Sioux grinding stone holder to see if the cutter fits on the threads?Don’t forget to measure and get the throat set right at around 90% of your valve size or what you are doing is worthless. You can YouTube this procedure online and use a set of snap
Gauges. If you have never done this it may pay to practice on a scrap head. Slow and easy.
Thanks for the input. By chance do you have a Sioux grinding stone holder to see if the cutter fits on the threads?
You need to take it easy. It's going to take a bit to healI torn my calf muscle last week and I can’t even walk the 150 feet to my shop. Sorry.
So, how did those "India" cutter kits work out? I see them on ebay not bad price but if they don't work not a value either...would they work on a set of Js to punch 1.88s out to 2.02?
Yeah for the price it looks like a "use it once and its done" type tool. But you think it would clean up seats ok right? I do have a set of J's with 2.02s already in them I just have to check the guides. The machine shop guy I use is so backed up Id drop the heads off in March and maybe get them back in Sept.I wouldn’t want to have to remove that much material. Not sure if they could do it or not.
Yeah for the price it looks like a "use it once and its done" type tool. But you think it would clean up seats ok right? I do have a set of J's with 2.02s already in them I just have to check the guides. The machine shop guy I use is so backed up Id drop the heads off in March and maybe get them back in Sept.