Wayne's World
My World, My Universe, My Garage
Did you resolve the issue with the adjusters working loose? This could be the root of the issue.
Well now what?
- Thread starter gtgto
- Start date
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I bought a new set of lifters and also went back to factory type rockers. All factory replacement parts now, rockers and shafts along with a new set of pushrods. Maybe I will see something by just removing the valve covers.
I am prepared for a teardown. Maybe I will see something by just removing the valve covers. That would be nice. If not this will be my winter project I guess. I always do something in the winter while the car is stored. I always do a big project, well big for me during the winter. Last year I dropped my trans and had it rebuilt and did a clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Do you have enough spring pressures for your lobes?
Cuz if your springs are not able to control the valves, bad things happen.
Cuz if your springs are not able to control the valves, bad things happen.
My springs are what came on the heads originally. The cam is a stock 68 340 4 speed cam so the springs should not be an issue. Unfortunately I think the damage I find is self inflicted by me playing with the preload instead of leaving things alone. I think when I backed off and had not enough preload is when my issues started. Although I put a new set of lifters in and did a second break in, The car seems to run good but I hear almost like a pinging sound at around 2500 rpm's. Maybe I take it apart and find no issues but I have a sneaky suspicion a few lobes might have been damaged.
Sounds like you need to add some thin lock nuts to your adjusters to keep them in place.
I actually went back to factory style non adjustable rockers
Ma Mopar valve train.
Well I got the motor torn down enough and I don't see any issues with the cam , lifters , or pushrods. Could there be issues with the cam that are not obvious to the naked eye. I am no mechanic. I can post pics of the cam after my work day is over. The timing chain seemed to have more slack in it than I would've liked to see considering its only a couple hundred miles old if that. If I took this thing apart and the issue isn't even my new cam or components and its something else that would suck. Maybe the noise is in the cabin and not under the hood. Maybe the factory tach is loud causing what I think is the noise or the speedo. Seems very noticeable at 2500-3000 rpm's
Last edited:
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Rhodes lifters are suppose to be a good choice for the sbm's, soak them in oil and push down on the plunger before you install them. I've heard that when breaking in a new cam not to hold the engine at any particular rpm. A friend of mine always runs his engine at between 1,800- 2,500 rpm's for 25-30 minutes and he's never wiped out a cam or lifters.
It probably needs longer pushrods. Did you measure for the correct length? Since the cam is a regrind, that means longer pushrods will be in order to restore proper geometry.
I did measure. They measured exactly what a factory length pushrod would be using with factory stamped rockers. I am sending the cam back to Ken at Oregon Cam Grinding to make sure its not damaged. If all checks out I am going to get a new set of lifters from him and go back to the adjustable rockers since I don't think there is anything wrong with them although I might look into the locking nut addition to them.
What? You don't measure the pushrods. You measure the distance between the lifter cup and the rocker arm ball, with the rocker arm in the proper position on the valve tip.
typed that wrong....I mean I measured using a couple of adjustable pushrods meant for measuring the proper length to use from lifter cup to rocker socket for the non adjustable rockers and I also used the measuring pushrod for proper length cup and ball type pushrods needed for 273 type adjustable rockers. For the adjustable rockers I had a set of pushrods made by Smith Brothers. The factory stamped rockers needed factory length pushrods and I have those as well.
If going back to adjustables, definitely do the locknut upgrade...I ran a tap down the adjustable factory rocker almost by hand.
Then when i went to thread adjuster back in, it was "loose". I'm doing the locknut upgrade with factory adjustable valve train.
Post lengths of pushrods that you need for your adjustable setup.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Then when i went to thread adjuster back in, it was "loose". I'm doing the locknut upgrade with factory adjustable valve train.
Post lengths of pushrods that you need for your adjustable setup.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Your problem sounds like my problem with a hyd roller. I just installed .100 ths longer pushrods, bled the lifters down, and gapped valve lash at .010. My engine runs much better at start up now. Stopped driving now for winter. Haven't really had time to go further. My valve train has always been noisy. My lifters would bleed down overnight.
If you used stock pushrods on a reground cam, chances are they are too short.
This project has come full circle. I bought a new 68 340 4 speed cam from Oregon Cam Grinding, The turn around time was amazingly fast. Got a new set of lifters as well. Installed the new cam and lifters along with the pushrods I had cup and ball style. Waiting on the locking nuts which should be here on Tuesday. I also am sending the cam back for Ken to check out. USPS wanted $58 to send it back so I'm looking into alternate means to send it back. If it checks out ok which I think it will since I don't see any damage to it I will have it for sale on here in a couple of weeks.
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