Went on the Dyno today, basic 5.7L

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GoodysGotaCuda

Mr. Goody
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DynoJet inertia dyno

I've street tuned the car completely and wanted to see where I was at and to make some minor adjustments. I started at about 340whp/350wtq and picked up a few more of each. Ended at 354whp and 365wtq. There's a little more left in it if I can clean up my intake air temps, they are quite high.

5.7L, Non-Eagle, Non-VVT
Stock Heads
Comp cam, 6.1L springs
TTI headers
Opened ring gaps [for later boost]
T56 Magnum


cam.png
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what is that engine rated at from chrysler? what do the headers and cam claim to add? anyone have any actual engine dyno and chassis dyno numbers to chime in with
 
Not bad mouth
Marcohotrod said:
what is that engine rated at from chrysler? what do the headers and cam claim to add? anyone have any actual engine dyno and chassis dyno numbers to chime in with
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Not bad mouthing the build, but dam, that`s a lot of work for no more h.p. then that! Definitly needs boost of some sort !
 
It's a decent start ,Goody... Time, to drive it . Do you like it , for now ? Only experience, will let you know. Good Luck .
 
Get the air intake down and this may seem silly, what is your fuel temp as it passing into your carb ?
 
All,

That's not an Eagle Hemi, so it does not have the nice heads. My 10 Chally 5.7 VVT R/T made 335hp to the wheels with tune, shorty headers, catless catback, CAI. Maybe 15 whp increase as some point of reference. There was a lot of rotating mass on my R/T with the honking 20"wheels and a 4k GVW. I learned long ago you can throw a lot of moolla at a NA car with minimal results as compared to forced induction. That why I sold it, the only way to get a streetable Dodge 5.7 VVT car and make 450-500 is with a blower. I'm sure the Challenger here runs great, but FYI the chart is set to STD correction and it should be represented in SAE corrected for conditions. That will reduce the values. Dynojet had a app to download and then I used the file from the tuner to see the diff in torque and hp based on the various settings on my PC.

FYI,
Marion
 
famous bob said:
Not bad mouth

Not bad mouthing the build, but dam, that`s a lot of work for no more h.p. then that! Definitly needs boost of some sort !
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Does it? It meets my expectations, perhaps you are surprised with the numbers, but I am not. Every dyno can be quite drastically different, it's a tool, not gospel.

It's still a mid-12 second car, excellent driveability, good fuel economy and it doesn't leak. If pure horsepower is what I was after, I would NOT be using a 3rd Gen Hemi...money goes much further with GM parts.

By the way...I got the reman 5.7L engine for free.
 
Goody,

Those numbers are REALLY close to mine with the same basic set up. I think these some of these guys are forgetting chassis to crank numbers... in comparison to factory output, you’re putting to the wheels what it had at the crank.

Mine is early 5.7, fast XFI controlled, comp 268 cam (looks a bit smaller than yours), stock heads, TTI headers and 2.5” pipe. (mild converter and 727 when I hit the Dyno)

Mine runs 12.9 here in the thin air of Denver, which like you said would be a mid 12 at lower elevation. I think it’s great numbers for a stock motor with a cam.

I have eagle heads and 6.1 intake sitting, hoping to get them lightly worked and on the car this year.

F3DA4D32-B34E-4670-833C-593D35B43538.jpeg
 
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joeboy said:
Goody,

Those numbers are REALLY close to mine with the same basic set up. I think these some of these guys are forgetting chassis to crank numbers... in comparison to factory output, you’re putting to the wheels what it had at the crank.

Mine is early 5.7, fast XFI controlled, comp 268 cam (looks a bit smaller than yours), stock heads, TTI headers and 2.5” pipe. (mild converter and 727 when I hit the Dyno)

Mine runs 12.9 here in the thin air of Denver, which like you said would be a mid 12 at lower elevation. I think it’s great numbers for a stock motor with a cam.

I have eagle heads and 6.1 intake sitting, hoping to get them lightly worked and on the car this year.
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Nice! Won't those eagle heads put your compression ratio through the roof?
 
I'd be fine with 340 at the wheels out of mine. I like that the dyno starts below 3K, where its a useful dig out of a corner. Is 6250 your fuel cutoff?
 
Yeah, I thought the numbers were pretty good. Remember, REAR WHEEL HP. Not bad at all.
 
354 horses AT THE WHEELS is nothing to sneeze at. And what's the E-body weigh? mid 12's is a nice ride when you get the "all around package" of a true street car.
Well done!
 
famous bob said:
Not bad mouth

Not bad mouthing the build, but dam, that`s a lot of work for no more h.p. then that! Definitly needs boost of some sort !
Click to expand...

Bob, you may be forgetting that the new engines are rated using NET HP. That's at the flywheel with all accessories in place. What he has shared is at the rear wheel as installed in the car.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Bob, you may be forgetting that the new engines are rated using NET HP. That's at the flywheel with all accessories in place. What he has shared is at the rear wheel as installed in the car.
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Yeah, I always get carried away, with , BRUTE , UNADULTERATED , SLIDE OFF THE ROAD , DRIVE IT OR GET OUT OF IT , HORSEPOWER ! --------LOL
 
Goody,

Cometic makes headgaskets in multiple thicknesses, I have the math someplace but I think with a .074 thickness it should be 10.8:1. Summit has the gaskets.

With the eagle heads you can run either the 6.1 or eagle intake, but the eagle intake will hit the coolant sensor in the block and you must use spacers. My understanding is that the 6.1 intake doesn’t hit, so no spacers necessary.

Joe
 
This makes me giddy for the 5.7 VVT swap in my Duster... with the Eagle heads and 6.4 non-MDS cam I think it should put down 400 at the wheels seeing how yours did.

Also did you modify the transmission so you could powershift it like that? I thought that kind of thing only worked on old-school 4-speeds lol.
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
This makes me giddy for the 5.7 VVT swap in my Duster... with the Eagle heads and 6.4 non-MDS cam I think it should put down 400 at the wheels seeing how yours did.

Also did you modify the transmission so you could powershift it like that? I thought that kind of thing only worked on old-school 4-speeds lol.
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Start a thread.. Khalid. Absolutely prescribed.. enough .. A new palate to massage,.. dig deep.... and BEST OF LUCK .
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
Also did you modify the transmission so you could powershift it like that? I thought that kind of thing only worked on old-school 4-speeds lol.
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No. ECU cuts power when I touch the clutch above 4,500rpm and 80% throttle. Power is progressively returned, it's actually quite easy on the driveline but the air going through the engine never slows down, so it picks up the next gear quite well.
 
Abodybomber said:
Start a thread.. Khalid. Absolutely prescribed.. enough .. A new palate to massage,.. dig deep.... and BEST OF LUCK .
Click to expand...

Lol I hear you Tim, this is a long-term project that won't get going for quite a while and I plan to drop in a craigslist 5.9 Magnum with a nice hyd. roller cam and mildly ported Mag heads from my old 360 for the time being.

GoodysGotaCuda said:
No. ECU cuts power when I touch the clutch above 4,500rpm and 80% throttle. Power is progressively returned, it's actually quite easy on the driveline but the air going through the engine never slows down, so it picks up the next gear quite well.
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Dang that's pretty smart, how long of a time-frame are we talking about with that progressive power return? Does it just cut ignition and/or fuel, since you said the air never slows down?
 
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