What a difference an inch makes.

-
Yea, good idea.
Put some metal under it instead of wood.
But the floor might rip out in a serious crash anyway.
Don't forget the optional harpoon steering column.

1-1955-chevrolet-belair-steering-wheel-jill-reger.jpg



 
Ok, minds out of the gutter people. Lol

Today I raised the bucket seats in my Dart up one inch, and when I jumped in to go for a ride it felt like a whole different car. I can actually hang my arm out the window without it hurting my shoulder.
I made the spacers with an 1-1/4 hole saw and one of my wife's old cutting boards. (Had to buy her a new one of course).
Threw in all new hardware too just so everything matched.

View attachment 1715497931

View attachment 1715497932
great concept although it seems the overwhelming FABO opinion board thinks some refinements are in order
 
When I redid the foam in my 65 Dart I was surprised to see mechanical adjustments for the front seat height on the front. I set it to the highest setting sure made a difference. Had a nice lumbar support after that.
 
I hear what your all sayin'.
Kinda wasn't thinking about crash ability when doing this. Was just trying to find a quick solution without all the cutting, welding, grinding, etc, of building supports from metal.
But I'm thinking now I'll get some 1x1 square tubing and weld up a better support system. I do have some serious braces underneath welded to the bottom of the floor so that part is done anyway.
Thanks y'all
Good deal. BTW, grade 5 is all that was ever required for SCCA racing seat hardware. Grade 5 has shear strength 80% of a grade 8, and the real issue is the tearout of the floor. Sounds like you have that covered, OP. Once you get some tubing under there, the bolt will be in double-shear, the force on the floor will not be as much in tear-out mode, and it will be all better all around.

I elevated some seats in a trucks once by 4".. .used 2"x4" rectangular tubing under each rail, with 3/16" wall; huge washers under the floor. They were not going any where without part of the floor. LOL
 
The old dirt late model I bought several years ago was a top running car all over with a seasoned veteran with over 40 years behind the wheel. Imagine my surprise when I found the seat was fastened in with four 1/4"-NC bolts!
 
I would suggest that many in the safety business would say we are all dumber than a bag of hammers for driving these old cars anyway when compared to the safety features on modern cars. Seems like we are straining out the gnats and swallowing the camels on this one....
 
Well I picked up some 1x1 steel tubing, and I've spent several hours in the garage over the last few days. Cutting, welding, grinding, repeat. Anyway the drivers seat is done, but still working on the passenger seat. Since my wife is so short I'm raising hers 1-1/2".
Looks a lot more secure with the steel tubing, just haven't bolted the seats back in yet. Gotta figure out a safe time to go to the hardware store for some grade 5 or better bolts. I'll try to get a couple pics up soon.
 
I’m saying what needs to be said. Maybe he knows it, or maybe he doesn’t. But if I don’t say it, I’m the one at fault for not saying it.

Get over yourself. Advice is just that..advice. You decide whether to take it or not and then it’s on you.
You sir are 100% correct. A lot of people just don't know. Thank you for taking the time to possibly save someone from injury or death.
 
I feel everyone's pain on things like this. My brother under builds everything and I have been accused of over building everything. Somehow we are both still alive. But I damn guarantee that I have saved his bacon more than a few times.

Safe travels to all.


 
Unfor
I feel everyone's pain on things like this. My brother under builds everything and I have been accused of over building everything. Somehow we are both still alive. But I damn guarantee that I have saved his bacon more than a few times.

Safe travels to all.


[
Unfortunately I have see this many times. I over build stuff myself because I really really don't want to die this way. But I still try to keep it light. lol
 
I would suggest that many in the safety business would say we are all dumber than a bag of hammers for driving these old cars anyway when compared to the safety features on modern cars. Seems like we are straining out the gnats and swallowing the camels on this one....

Totally false argument.

It’s true, these cars are nowhere near as safe as a modern car. So we’re all assuming some risk we wouldn’t be if we drove new cars.

But that doesn’t mean we should overlook simple safety improvements, or make unsafe modifications. If the seat rips off the floor you’re going to be in worse shape than if it doesn’t, it’s that simple.

Just because these cars are less safe than a modern car doesn’t mean we should ignore safety entirely. If anything, we should focus MORE on the safety we can control or improve.
 
If it makes anybody feel better mine is a rolling death trap!! LOL
The seats, I'm kind of tall so I just put 3-inch long bolts in the front of the seats and nuts that are extended out two inches with a washer LOL and then bolted to the floor so they're like little stilts.. the bolts in the back of the seat just Factory so the seat tilts back...
Fiberglass bumpers? Did I mention I just added nitrous...
Hopefully this makes everybody feel a little bit more safe about their own car..
Like I tell my wife you can't save the world....
 
Good deal. BTW, grade 5 is all that was ever required for SCCA racing seat hardware. Grade 5 has shear strength 80% of a grade 8, and the real issue is the tearout of the floor. Sounds like you have that covered, OP. Once you get some tubing under there, the bolt will be in double-shear, the force on the floor will not be as much in tear-out mode, and it will be all better all around.

I elevated some seats in a trucks once by 4".. .used 2"x4" rectangular tubing under each rail, with 3/16" wall; huge washers under the floor. They were not going any where without part of the floor. LOL
With all the Chinese crap out there I'd go with the grade 8. I don't know if you have any TSC's where you live but you can purchase them by the pound. And they even sell ny-locks nuts.
 
If it makes anybody feel better mine is a rolling death trap!! LOL
The seats, I'm kind of tall so I just put 3-inch long bolts in the front of the seats and nuts that are extended out two inches with a washer LOL and then bolted to the floor so they're like little stilts.. the bolts in the back of the seat just Factory so the seat tilts back...
Fiberglass bumpers? Did I mention I just added nitrous...
Hopefully this makes everybody feel a little bit more safe about their own car..
Like I tell my wife you can't save the world....
:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Totally false argument.

It’s true, these cars are nowhere near as safe as a modern car. So we’re all assuming some risk we wouldn’t be if we drove new cars.

But that doesn’t mean we should overlook simple safety improvements, or make unsafe modifications. If the seat rips off the floor you’re going to be in worse shape than if it doesn’t, it’s that simple.

Just because these cars are less safe than a modern car doesn’t mean we should ignore safety entirely. If anything, we should focus MORE on the safety we can control or improve.
Not a "totally false argument" since you admitted to part of his point in your second sentence.
 
Not a "totally false argument" since you admitted to part of his point in your second sentence.

It is a totally false argument. The fact that his first statement is true doesn’t mean the whole argument is. It’s a simple logic problem- if “a”, then “b”.

So, modern cars are safer than our old muscle cars. That’s true. That’s “a”. So then the rest of the argument. If modern cars are safer than our old muscle cars, then “b” -paying attention to safety features on our old muscle cars is like “we are straining out the gnats and swallowing the camels on this one”.

But “b” is false, and it doesn’t follow from “a”. We can still make our old cars more unsafe. We can also make them safer.

So no, just because modern cars are safer doesn’t mean we shouldn’t care about making them even less safe. So the argument is false, even though his first statement is true. Simple logic bud.
 
It is a totally false argument. The fact that his first statement is true doesn’t mean the whole argument is. It’s a simple logic problem- if “a”, then “b”.

So, modern cars are safer than our old muscle cars. That’s true. That’s “a”. So then the rest of the argument. If modern cars are safer than our old muscle cars, then “b” -paying attention to safety features on our old muscle cars is like “we are straining out the gnats and swallowing the camels on this one”.

But “b” is false, and it doesn’t follow from “a”. We can still make our old cars more unsafe. We can also make them safer.

So no, just because modern cars are safer doesn’t mean we shouldn’t care about making them even less safe. So the argument is false, even though his first statement is true. Simple logic bud.

Wow, 50% right. That is better than I usually do. Especially when my wife is involved.

I enjoy a spirited discussion (and working from home I am pretty bored staring at a computer all day), so let’s throw some numbers in to this rather than discussing vague generalities.

The two primary concerns I read from this were:

1. Moving the seat up on spacers is unsafe.
2. The wood spacers are unsafe and should be replaced with metal.

Thinking about a worst case scenario where a lot of force is applied to seat mounting (when seat belts are not fastened to seat), that would seem to me to be a rear end collision. This would have the force of your body pushing back on the seat, potentially ripping the front bolts out of the floor. In this case, there is no loading on the front spacers, and a lot of load on the rear spacers.

On the wood spacer issue:

For worst case, let’s pick a crappy wood, pine. Pine has a compression strength of about 5000 psi. Let’s assume 2 square inches of contact area for a total of 10,000 lbs per spacer.

Seats use a 1/4-20 bolt as I recall. Tensile strength of a grade 2 bolt is 2350 lbs (grade 5 is 3800). Tensile strength and compression strength are two different things, but this gives you a rough comparison of what forces different things can withstand. From this I would suggest that the wood spacers may not be as bad as we might think.

On the raising the seat an inch issue:

Raising the seat an inch would provide more force on the mounting bolts like having a longer wrench on a bolt. On my car the top of the seat is about 27 inches from the floor. For simplicity and worst case, let’s assume I weigh 250 lbs and all of that weight is applied to the top of the seat. That would be a torque of 2.25 feet (27 inches) times 250 lbs for 562 ft lbs on the mounting system. If you add an inch, that makes the force 583 ft lbs. About a 4% change. Base in this I would conclude that the 1 inch spacer doesn’t make a lot of difference. if want to break loose a stuck bolt, you don’t get a wrench that is an inch longer. Doesn’t really matter

The reduction in the track surface area contact with the floor may be a bigger issue with round spacers. It would likely be better to have a long spacer that supported the entire track from front to back, rather than round spacers made of anything.

How about an example crash scenario? I will arbitrarily pick a 10g crash. This means the 583 ft lbs would now be about 5,830.

For two grade to bolts on the front of the seat seeing about half the the force each: about 2900 lbs on a 2300 lbs bolt. So if everything else held up the grade 2 bolts would shear. Given the sheet metal floor, this seems unlikely, but that is speculation, as the strength of the floor depends on many factors and would be hard to calculate.

This is a very crude analysis and has all kinds of unmentioned assumptions and approximations. May have slight errors or wild glaring mistakes. My point from this is that whether we are doing something useful or not depends on the actual numbers. It is easy to spend a lot of time and effort on things that don’t really matter. Is it a gnat or a camel? Hard to tell sometimes.

Changing anything from the factory design that is safety related should be considered carefully. Unintended consequences are very common.

Well, I suppose I have wasted enough time on this.....time to get back to work.
 
Wow, 50% right. That is better than I usually do. Especially when my wife is involved.

I enjoy a spirited discussion (and working from home I am pretty bored staring at a computer all day), so let’s throw some numbers in to this rather than discussing vague generalities.

The two primary concerns I read from this were:

1. Moving the seat up on spacers is unsafe.
2. The wood spacers are unsafe and should be replaced with metal.

Thinking about a worst case scenario where a lot of force is applied to seat mounting (when seat belts are not fastened to seat), that would seem to me to be a rear end collision. This would have the force of your body pushing back on the seat, potentially ripping the front bolts out of the floor. In this case, there is no loading on the front spacers, and a lot of load on the rear spacers.

On the wood spacer issue:

For worst case, let’s pick a crappy wood, pine. Pine has a compression strength of about 5000 psi. Let’s assume 2 square inches of contact area for a total of 10,000 lbs per spacer.

Seats use a 1/4-20 bolt as I recall. Tensile strength of a grade 2 bolt is 2350 lbs (grade 5 is 3800). Tensile strength and compression strength are two different things, but this gives you a rough comparison of what forces different things can withstand. From this I would suggest that the wood spacers may not be as bad as we might think.

On the raising the seat an inch issue:

Raising the seat an inch would provide more force on the mounting bolts like having a longer wrench on a bolt. On my car the top of the seat is about 27 inches from the floor. For simplicity and worst case, let’s assume I weigh 250 lbs and all of that weight is applied to the top of the seat. That would be a torque of 2.25 feet (27 inches) times 250 lbs for 562 ft lbs on the mounting system. If you add an inch, that makes the force 583 ft lbs. About a 4% change. Base in this I would conclude that the 1 inch spacer doesn’t make a lot of difference. if want to break loose a stuck bolt, you don’t get a wrench that is an inch longer. Doesn’t really matter

The reduction in the track surface area contact with the floor may be a bigger issue with round spacers. It would likely be better to have a long spacer that supported the entire track from front to back, rather than round spacers made of anything.

How about an example crash scenario? I will arbitrarily pick a 10g crash. This means the 583 ft lbs would now be about 5,830.

For two grade to bolts on the front of the seat seeing about half the the force each: about 2900 lbs on a 2300 lbs bolt. So if everything else held up the grade 2 bolts would shear. Given the sheet metal floor, this seems unlikely, but that is speculation, as the strength of the floor depends on many factors and would be hard to calculate.

This is a very crude analysis and has all kinds of unmentioned assumptions and approximations. May have slight errors or wild glaring mistakes. My point from this is that whether we are doing something useful or not depends on the actual numbers. It is easy to spend a lot of time and effort on things that don’t really matter. Is it a gnat or a camel? Hard to tell sometimes.

Changing anything from the factory design that is safety related should be considered carefully. Unintended consequences are very common.

Well, I suppose I have wasted enough time on this.....time to get back to work.
AJ... Someone's after your title...
 
-
Back
Top