what about a 383 stroker??

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chad72duster

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I found a 383 today 67 year with the steel crankfor $300. Running motor has 30k on a rebuild that was .030 over with a low compression piston and 906 heads. What do yall think?? Is this a good buy?? would this fit better than a 440?? what kinda power can i get out of a stroker to 431?? would these heads support it? He also has a BB scatter shield and another A833 4 speed which I bought. If I could pick it all up for $400 whats yalls take?? Stroker kit is only $2200 dollars and I would still have my 340 to play with?
 
A 400 is still the way to go, it has a bigger bore than a 440, no wider than any of the lo-blocks and has a great rod/stroke ration when done.

But 300 bucks sounds like you might be able to buy it and flip it :D
 
flip it??? may be able to get it for nothing just some labor. His old lady has 4 rooms she wants sprayed with primer and the a latex , I am going to try and get the 383 and the lakewood scatter shield and bell housing in trade :D :D if that works out maybe i will just take it down and freshen it up check the bearings and pop some new pistons in it. keep it cheap and just set it to the side. I am trying to buy a 68 dart 318 car that is in real nice shape all orginal, if i can get that i will plop that 340 in it and build that 383 for the duster to run a the strip.


Whats the differance other than the bore between the 383 and the 400?? the stroke is the same and the block is the same as far as I know. technicaly speaking I should be able to do the same things with a 383 as i could with a 400. I think the main journals are diff and the caps but other than that what else?/
 
chad72duster said:
Whats the differance other than the bore between the 383 and the 400?? the stroke is the same and the block is the same as far as I know. technicaly speaking I should be able to do the same things with a 383 as i could with a 400. I think the main journals are diff and the caps but other than that what else?/
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The only difference is the bore. anything you can do to a 400 you can do to a 383. You cannot overbore the 383 to the same bore diameter as the 400 though.
 
The 383 will make a nice motor as a 431. It would cost the same to make a 451 out of a 400. You can still get those blocks pretty cheap.The real cost comes after the kit. Boring which is .035 over bore. I wouldnt go the max as you wont have anything to work with later. Line honing milling the block, head work and so on. It will be probably $5000 plus to get an A1 job done that will last. You can also have as much power as your wallet can afford from either eng combonation. Displacment is ussualy cheaper than trick parts to make small motors fast. But you can't spin lots of weight fast so decide what you are going to do with it then figure how much it will take in $ to have it live doing what you want with it to do. You can build a cheap fast motor but it will expire fast also. I currently have a 451 stroker aprox. 550 hoarse in a 64 Valiant best time is 10.72 at 122.65 MPH with a 1.42 second sixty foot. Runs like **** on the street. But its fast
 
I could build a 451 a little cheaper than a 431 but I cant beat the price of the 383. FREE!!! the rotating assembly is a little more costly about $100 bucks. i can pick up the whole roataing assembly ballanced for about $2100 dollars. The line hone and deck i can do at my buddies shop pretty cheap. The heads will be the question. A good set of high flow heads will be another $2500 but these will be 77cc heads which will give me outstanding compression and good flow numbers. I could probly run the head it has now for a while with just a good valve job and still make decent numbers. Either way I know its going to cost about 5K to build but with my 340 running like it does there is no hurry and if I can get the lower half done the top half can come along slowly.
 
If you have a buddy that does good machine work thats worth a bunch.For the heads some people dont like the Edelbrock heads. But on my 451 they make 550 hp and are out of the box except the springs. I went with a dual spring set up because I'm using a Racer Brown cam. It has fast ramp speeds to take advantage of the big diameter lifters. My machine shop said they could make my small chamber heads flow as well as the Ede's after almost $800 bucks of work they said it would be at least $1800 and they wouldnt flow as well. I trashed them and went with the Ede's at 1300. If your car is a streeter just go with a flat top piston and have it set a 0 deck height. You can mill the aluminum heads some or have cometic gskts make you a set of thin gskts. But you want at least .040 piston to head clearance for saftey and good quench. If you are making a racer get domed pistons. Mine are 9cc domes and make 11.5 with 0 deckheight and stock Ede combustion chambers. But you need good gas for that compression. Aluminum heads are 40 lbs lighter than Iron and look cool
 
thats what i was looking at maybe a set of bulldog heads and a domed piston. Im going to take the 383 down and see how she stands right now. I may be able to just freshen her up with some new bearings and a new piston on zero deck and go with it for a while. I will have to talk to my buddy who owns a machine shop and see what kinda price he can do for a stroker rotating assembly. he told me he thoght he could get it set up for about 1600 or 1700 bucks.
 
Realy all you need is a 440 or 413 crank and rods then Diamond or Ross pistons. Flat tops are ussualy on the shelf but pop ups are custom. Check with the piston manufactuer before you bore. I belive they will be a .035 overbore rather than std..020 or .030, .040. The crank would then have to be cut down on the counter weights. Which makes for a lite weight rotating assemble.
 
racecarbob451 said:
Realy all you need is a 440 or 413 crank and rods then Diamond or Ross pistons. Flat tops are ussualy on the shelf but pop ups are custom. Check with the piston manufactuer before you bore. I belive they will be a .035 overbore rather than std..020 or .030, .040. The crank would then have to be cut down on the counter weights. Which makes for a lite weight rotating assemble.
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my dad had that prob with his old duster he had it over 40 and the pistons where wrong :scratch:
 
chad72duster said:
I will go with a eagle full rotating assembly and Ross pistons if I go that route.
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If you are changing rods go with a set with BBC rod journal sizes as they are smaller, then you can offset grind the crank journals for more stroke.
This is how you can get 470 cubes out of a 400 block with worked 440 crank.
 
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