What all do i need to take to machine shop?

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rich_mc

rich_mc

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Recently got this 383. It was stuck in cylinder #8 but got it unstuck and now it is disassembled.

This is my first rodeo as far as an engine rebuild, so some questions may seem stupid. I did order the "How to rebuild big block mopars" book a little bit ago to help. What all of below would I need to take to machine shop to have machined/checked? I'm sure it'll likely need bored slightly over and clean up the top where the heads bolt on.

Does the crank normally need to be taken in/checked?

The core I bought came with one set of heads installed, and then 2 loose sets of 906 heads. Undecided if I'll try to get some of those cleaned up and ready, or just get a set of the stealth aluminum ones.

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At minimum the block and main caps. Wouldn't hurt to bring in the crankshaft if it needs turned and polished. 65'
 
Block with main caps, Rods & pistons, crank and Damper, and Heads, You may be cheaper buying a rotating assembly depending on the condition of the crank and rods. Heads can also get into more money then new aluminum heads. Take everything to the shop. Bottom end and block first, When that is done take the heads.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Block with main caps, Rods & pistons, crank and Damper, and Heads, You may be cheaper buying a rotating assembly depending on the condition of the crank and rods. Heads can also get into more money then new aluminum heads. Take everything to the shop. Bottom end and block first, When that is done take the heads.
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If the crank needs replaced, is there any reason NOT to do the stroker kit? It seems costs are relatively comparable if the whole rotating assembly needs replaced.
 
Like OMM said, take the whole shootin' match. I'd take the heads at the same time, though- unless it's a one man show, they may have another guy doing their head work, and be able to get to them sooner (if that's the route you choose to go. Plus, that way you might only get charged for 1 hot tank session. Even if you do get new heads you'll need to take them in to have them checked).
And not to sound pessimistic, but you need to write down/photograph ALL casting/model/VIN numbers on all the major components- lots of stories about people not getting back the same stuff they brought in- ie a "bad" block requiring lots more machine work, or getting back 596s instead of the X heads they brought in; or losing components entirely (we never got 'em...). Make a list of everything you drop off and have the list marked "received". Not every shop operates that way, but the good ones won't mind you protecting yourself.
 
Professor Fate said:
Like OMM said, take the whole shootin' match. I'd take the heads at the same time, though- unless it's a one man show, they may have another guy doing their head work, and be able to get to them sooner (if that's the route you choose to go. Plus, that way you might only get charged for 1 hot tank session. Even if you do get new heads you'll need to take them in to have them checked).
And not to sound pessimistic, but you need to write down/photograph ALL casting/model/VIN numbers on all the major components- lots of stories about people not getting back the same stuff they brought in- ie a "bad" block requiring lots more machine work, or getting back 596s instead of the X heads they brought in; or losing components entirely (we never got 'em...). Make a list of everything you drop off and have the list marked "received". Not every shop operates that way, but the good ones won't mind you protecting yourself.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I'll be sure to completely document all.

If I take a set of heads in, would they generally prefer them assembled or disassembled?
 
rich_mc said:
If the crank needs replaced, is there any reason NOT to do the stroker kit? It seems costs are relatively comparable if the whole rotating assembly needs replaced.
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If it just needs grinding/polishing, maybe not. If it's fubar, then go ahead... welcome to the "rabbit hole".
 
Hey Rich glad to see you coming along with the tear down. I am with taking the block,caps and crankshaft in first, this way you know if its go or no-go with the block. I would take the time to clean all what you have, it would be less time for them to do an initial cleaning.
 
rich_mc said:
If I take a set of heads in, would they generally prefer them assembled or disassembled?
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Ask 'em. They'll probably like to tell you they'd like to see them whole, that way they can nick you for disassembly. Hey, they are a business...
I'd take them in disassembled, but with all parts boxed and individually labelled as to their original installed location- for instance, "#7 intake valve", "#4 exhaust rocker", etc.
 
You should carefully consider what performance you expect from this engine. Is this just a stock rebuild, or are we expecting a higher level of performance? This will determine what parts go to the shop and what level of machine work. The performance expected will determine what parts will be needed and machining needed. The whole package works together to achieve the results you want.
 
Dicer said:
Hey Rich glad to see you coming along with the tear down. I am with taking the block,caps and crankshaft in first, this way you know if its go or no-go with the block. I would take the time to clean all what you have, it would be less time for them to do an initial cleaning.
Click to expand...

Thanks- Aside from that #8 piston, it's come apart super easy- haven't had to fight any bolts or even get the torch out at all! It's almost like you kept it in a drum of WD40 until I picked it up...lol
 
i'd take in basically the short block-- block, crank, caps, rods & pistons. let them check the bore/block and crank and if that all looks good then decide to move forward, make the call on the rods which is more cost effective refurb or buying new.

if the crank is waxed, a stroker is probably best course of action.

you'll definitely want to roll the heads in, but best to ask them if they want them assembled or if it's cool to break them down. some places want them all in one piece, others don't really care.

but again same boat, have them verify if they are sound condition. if they are not, or are going to require a lot of work for your application aftermarket alum pieces are real value for money there.

either way, communication is KEY. talk to them. set up realistic expectations for BOTH parties and decide from the start whose responsibility specific tasks are. you don't want stuff kicking around there for months because you both thought the other was going to order pistons. and in the same vein, if you're going to order the parts make it a priority. don't let your stuff sit around and languish while you search out a deal or wait for your bonus check to come thru. that's when parts start growing legs and walking away or the desire to get your work done ahead of other people starts to wither away.

have a clear idea of the build you want going in. have a plan and stick to that. have a contingency plan when things unexpectedly go sideways.
 
@Murray and @junkyardhero - Thanks for thinking ahead guys..... I'm still in exploration and planning stages, but my general thoughts currently are, in no particular order of importance...

1. From the block casting numbers and the 2 barrel intake number, it looks like the engine originally came from a 1967 Chrysler 300... I have not located a vin... Online searching shows that was originally 305-315 HPish... I'd like to see the rebuild around 400 or so...

2. I'll likely do the Holley Super Sniper 4 barrel. Thinking the Super one just in case I decided to do something like the Torqstorm kit in the future and it is rated for NA or boost.

3. Drivability will be key. I'd likely never go to the drag strip with it other than maybe a test/tune night.

4. Car it will go into is my 76 Scamp- build thread link in my signature line.

5. Heads would probably be one of the sets of 906s I got, unless machining estimates make it seem that a new aluminum set would be better.

6. My core I bought came with a set of A-body big block exhaust manifolds. From what I've read these are about the best fit option out there but do limit the performance. If they will keep me from being able to get to that 400ish HP mark, then I'd likely sell them and put the money toward a set of the TTI headers.

7. Tranny- core came with a used 727 of unknown condition. I'm honestly leaning toward either the A41 or TKX from SST instead, mostly because of the desire for good drivability as I'd like to be able to roll on the highway without taching to the moon.

8. Looking to add A/C.

9. I've done pretty significant suspension, rear end, and brake upgrades to my Scamp already so that it should be suitable for about any powerplant that would be installed. It's now handling and driving spectacularly, but just wimpy with the current stock slant 6. I will probably need to add subframe connectors, but think the new suspension is probably good aside from that.

10. Cam will probably be replaced as I have no clue what the current one is, but it likely came in the 300 the engine originally shipped in and probably won't hit my goals.

That's it for now. I'm open for suggestions of other things I should be thinking about. As said, this is the first time I've been this far into an engine. Up to this point, probably my most involved mechanical job was rebuilding the rear end I got with new bearings, gears, setting backlash/preload, etc.
 
Like someone above already mentioned. Welcome to the Rabbit Hole. Should you decide to go with a stroker kit I am a Molnar dealer and provide you anything from a crankshaft, rods, to a complete balanced rotating assembly.

Tom
 
Sorry, but you will not meet your 400HP goal with factory "A" body manifolds. Originally they took a 330HP 383 motor and put those manifolds on it for "A" bodies and it knocked it down to 290HP. With what those manifolds are bringing, you can buy headers. Good stock heads can work if the combination is right.
 
Murray said:
Sorry, but you will not meet your 400HP goal with factory "A" body manifolds. Originally they took a 330HP 383 motor and put those manifolds on it for "A" bodies and it knocked it down to 290HP. With what those manifolds are bringing, you can buy headers. Good stock heads can work if the combination is right.
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Got it. That does not upset me at all- no issue with changing those out in my mind...

To expand on my performance goals, I previously had an '09 Challenger R/T and an '18 Scat Pack Challenger. IIRC, they were like 345 and 485 HP respectively, but a lot heavier than my Scamp. I'd like the get up and go performance to fall somewhere between those 2 cars I had.
 
Too start with, remove the bearings and check the main saddles for visual cracks. That's a good thing to do yourself, I had a guy bring in a 400 for a stroker build and I noticed a crack in the middle saddle across the oil feed hole before the mag check.
Like every already said take in the main caps, also any other parts you want to reuse.
Ask for a parts rebuild price and compare to a 440 source stroker kit. You can have fun with a 383 but 438 or 493 cubes will be more fun in my opinion.
I do highly recommend the Molnar parts @PROSTOCKTOM sells. I use it in my 471 and it is very good quality
 
whatever crank you go with-- stock or stroker, make sure that it is compatible with your transmission of choice. drilled for pilot if manual, correct register for torque converter.

re: power/400hp goal. i don't see much of a problem achieving that goal in that it's <1.25hp/ci

you'll want compression in at least the 9~9.5:1 range, a cam with a modern profile that has lift in the high 400's and a reasonable amount of duration, probably in the low 280's. top that with a dual plane and a 750.

on the heads, i know that 906's will support 400hp but it comes down to how much you want to invest when you have the option of aluminum units that would be more cost effective and a better piece all around. at minimum you'd want a bowl blend with a port match, matched springs and a good valve job. hardened seats are another consideration; you needs 'em, so if you don't has, add that to the list.

obviously electronic ignition. i'd sell along those manifolds and rock the headers.
 
rich_mc said:
6. My core I bought came with a set of A-body big block exhaust manifolds. From what I've read these are about the best fit option out there but do limit the performance. If they will keep me from being able to get to that 400ish HP mark, then I'd likely sell them and put the money toward a set of the TTI headers.
Click to expand...
The ones in the picture (of everything spread out) don't look like BB A-body manifolds to me... but the real thing is going for low four figures (383) and even more for the rare 440 ones.
Are you sure someone actually gave a pair away with a core engine? If so, sell them and you can not only buy headers but some other parts too!
 
DrCharles said:
The ones in the picture (of everything spread out) don't look like BB A-body manifolds to me... but the real thing is going for low four figures (383) and even more for the rare 440 ones.
Are you sure someone actually gave a pair away with a core engine? If so, sell them and you can not only buy headers but some other parts too!
Click to expand...

You're correct. The ones on the floor that came off the motor are not the ones in question. The a-body ones are on the shelf.

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The third one way down on the bottom shelf is a 273 driver side unit.
 
I start with the block only, including main caps. During dissassembly it is best to check how free the crank turns. Then use one piston rod assembly and install that same piston and rod into the 4 corner cylinders to get measurements on the block to see if the decks are equal and straight front to back. Have the machine shop bore to the minimum diameter cylinders will clean up. Now you can choose pistons. If all is well, the next step is the rotating assy. crank, rods and your new pistons. Since you are starting with a 67 two barrel engine, there is likely very little stress on the components. The crank should be forged steel and will probably just need polishing. Put new rod bolts in the rods, and balance the whole works. I like 906 heads, just clean up the bowls and run new stainless exhaust valves. Use the fel-pro viton valve stem seals. Pick a cam. I'd use the factory A Body manifolds first. You can get off the shelf exhaust. I've run an original 383 Formula S Barracuda for years with a 727. Easy and plenty of power and torque. A 727 is easy to get up and running. Replace all the seals, up the pressure, get a 4.2 kickdown lever, adjust the bands, change filter, fluid, and forget about it. Run 3.23 gears.
 
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66fs said:
Put new rod bolts in the rods, and balance the whole works.
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This may be obvious to some, but when pressing out rod bolts and inserting new ones, check the big ends for roundness. Sometimes they will distort a surprising amount (or may not have been correct in the first place).
 
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