What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?

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Naw, it's just this pesky mortgage that I need to pay for! Working gets in the way of my "Pro Bono" garage cleaning venture!

Cley
 
New legs on pump, damn had to make and thread it all ! Fun !!!

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Kinda tweaked, but with a little time and a body hammer ?

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Getting the new pan fitted in.
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Got it tacked in across the front. Damn cheap *** harbor freight junk *** mig blew up. Had to run to Northern Tool and get a Hobart, $5xx more out the window. Hope this one last a while!
 
Ottmundr said:
Holy compression test batman! Started the tuneup late this evening, so I only got half way done. I'll get the points and timing tomorrow (or next weekend). I was tempted to just drop in my new (used) Unilite dizzy, but I'll just save it for the 360 build.
The little guy and I went to O'Reilly's for some gunk engine cleaner and brake cleaner, found some hot wheels while we were there. Yeah, it's a '55 Chevy, but it's cool so I had to get it. Note the masking tape with numbers on the plug wires, saves a lot of aggravation.

I have been having an INTERMITTENT loss of power, over 4,000 or so. Sometimes it'll keep pulling, and other times it just does NOT want to, and this is at 5:30am with nice cool 50* air temps. I am not too concerned because of the 360 that I'm building. Even if I destroy this 318 I won't sweat it.

Edit:
I was thinking that the intermittent issue of no power over 4,000 rpm may be a fuel delivery issue.

With the new RN14YC plugs, the idle came down to a nice and smooth easy 650 rpm. Air temp was around 85*. I am about 2 miles away from the Santa Rosa Airport (STS) elevation of 128'. 0.035" gap, 30 ft-lbs torque on the plugs per the service manual.

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Since I was replacing the plugs, I figured I'd slap the compression gauge on it and see what I had. Not so good. Been running our awesome California unleaded gas with untouched 675 heads. Any bets on whether it's the rings, or exhaust valves?

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Close ups of the plugs... They are about 3 years old. Note the insulators on plugs 1, 4, 5, 7, 8. Now, per the service manual, figure 4 page 8-61, it looks like I've had overheating issues, which I can confirm, as I had to replace the Griffin radiator, which sprung a leak where the cores were not well welded on the top right side. Also, you can hear detonation when hammering the throttle when going up steep grades, at elevations less than 1000'. I may end up retarding the timing when I replace the points and set the timing.

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Pull the heads and do a valve job
 
RAT ROD AL said:
Getting the new pan fitted in.View attachment 1715369188 View attachment 1715369189
Got it tacked in across the front. Damn cheap *** harbor freight junk *** mig blew up. Had to run to Northern Tool and get a Hobart, $5xx more out the window. Hope this one last a while!
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I have had a Holbart welder for a few years now, it works great.
Tip, use the largest diameter spool of wire on the machine, it will feed the wire a lot smoother than the small diameter spools that come with the welder.
 
Picked up new rods and jets for my AVS2. Time permitting I will change them and play with the springs to see if a can get my tuning a little better than it is. Move it from the rich side to the lean side and since I am using it as my commuter car get the mileage up a little too.
 
63spf said:
That wont scratch the glass ?
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Nope, try it out on old stickers and bird poop on the windows on your wife's car. She'll be grateful, and you'll know it works. Win-win. Of course, there's always the chance that you'll end up sleeping on the couch...

:rofl:

I've used it on many cars, and never had a problem.
 
kursplat said:
how much load does that take off the bulkhead?
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Don't know exactly and I had already done the MAD bypass years ago. A few months ago I changed to an MSD box, eliminated the ballast and wiring from the harness, and tied ignition 1 and 2 for 12v during cranking (for MSD). After doing that I experienced a pulsation in voltage regulation at higher RPM. I determined I had about a .75 volt drop through points in the dash before coming back out to the regulator (that I could not easily remedy). Putting the VR on a relay to bypass everything south of the bulkhead cured the problem.
 
Replacing rear wheel cylinders and the master. Popped the left rear on the trip to Carlisle while in the trailer. Made no sense as it was bonnet strapped in. Both are being replaced after 4 years of road time. Not sure but think I got centric units from Rock Auto. Bought Wagner this time.

Fortunately the safety switch did it’s job and shut off the rear circuit and tripped the warning light. Guess my resto work did what it is supposed to!
 
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