What cam to use in 340

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barnett468 said:
a solid roller is a complete waste of money on iron heads . the entire point of a solid roller is to be able to make a very aggressive profile that opens the valves extremely quickly and unless you have heads that flow a ton of air, you will not be able to optimize the benefits of one . the key to hp is in air flow . if you don't mind adjusting valves and having a noisy engine, you could run a flat tappet solid cam and save yourself around $400.00 . if the heads are not ported, you might be able to find someone that will do some basic bowl blending and valve guide profiling for around $700.00 . this will include regrinding the valves and seats . they can check the guides at the same time . if the springs are stock you will need new springs for around $120.00.

if you like to rev the engine and dont already have an intake, i would run an air gap instead of an rpm.

if you use a solid flat tappet cam, i would use the howards cams lifters with the oil hole in the bottom.
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Apparently you're no familiar with the early race W2 heads (iron). There are small block strokers out there with over 400 cid using ported W2s running in the 10's. I'm sure they're all running solid rollers. I don't think I'd tell them they wasted their money on iron heads. As you mentioned...It's all about how much air you can flow through the engine.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I don't know how much a Magnum head can handle as far as lift is concerned in stock or worked over form. As cast, be it Magnum or LA head, once the porter takes over, it is all a wash on what is better or not since the combo of the engine and intended purpose of the engine and what the builder takes advantage of is another story.

IF I was to do another iron headed engine, it would be one of two ways.
Dead stock/very mild hop up or a W2 to go make some power with. That's it.

Glideriders build meets mild hop up. With or without porting the iron. It's on track to be a nice power plant.
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Amen Rumble. I fully agree. It's all about the recipe. With as much good aftermarket stuff that's out there, and the right combination(recipe), bolt on stuff should be sufficient for a nice street build. Good reliability also.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Ironman
Sheesh this thread is hard for me to follow. I was responding to your post, thinking you were the OP;gliderider;
who is thinking of going Js,that he's already got, instead of the Eddies that he also already has. If I was stuck in that place, with the short block not yet built, The Eddies and 11/1 would be a no-brainer for me.
The highest point in Deleware is 447 ft, so let her buck.
Sorry for my confusion.


This I also can relate to('cept just one son). We should all get together and build/buy a large centrally located warehouse , and deliver all our stuff there. I could sure use the room around here. Then hire a couple of guys to refurbish the stuff and sell it all. For me it's not so much about the money, as finding a home for it before the Creator comes for me.
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We're on the same page there AJ. Too bad you're living so far away in the great white North. I think we could solve a lot of the worlds problems after consuming an adequate amount of Labatt's Blue. That's the favorite drink after our over 60 hockey(Beer)league games.
 
I would run the comp 268 its a real good street cam. But between the three you have and the ones your looking to buy I see very little performance difference. My dart engine is similar to yours. 340 speed pro forged pistons about 9.8 to 1. rpm intake. 750 holley. headers. 3.55s. and 2200 converter. With the mp 280 474 best time was 13.15, Changed to a lunati 276 voodoo ran almost identical times within a few 100ths. Then put in a hughes solid 237 and 242 at .050 and .534 .542 lift. best et went to 12.93 . So I don't believe in magic cams. I think the hughes picked up because it was a solid design. I have no problems running a solid on the street. I adjust valves once a year and there rarely of more than .002. So if I was to buy new I would go solid.
 
aaronk785 said:
I would run the comp 268 its a real good street cam. But between the three you have and the ones your looking to buy I see very little performance difference. My dart engine is similar to yours. 340 speed pro forged pistons about 9.8 to 1. rpm intake. 750 holley. headers. 3.55s. and 2200 converter. With the mp 280 474 best time was 13.15, Changed to a lunati 276 voodoo ran almost identical times within a few 100ths. Then put in a hughes solid 237 and 242 at .050 and .534 .542 lift. best et went to 12.93 . So I don't believe in magic cams. I think the hughes picked up because it was a solid design. I have no problems running a solid on the street. I adjust valves once a year and there rarely of more than .002. So if I was to buy new I would go solid.
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I'd bet the MPH was stronger than the ET with that set up.
 
lroman said:
Apparently you're no familiar with the early race W2 heads (iron). There are small block strokers out there with over 400 cid using ported W2s running in the 10's. I'm sure they're all running solid rollers. I don't think I'd tell them they wasted their money on iron heads. As you mentioned...It's all about how much air you can flow through the engine.
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you are talking about a rare exception to the rule and as you mentioned, those heads were ported, not stock, therefore, the same rule applies with one minor alteration, roller cams are a waste of money on iron heads UNLESS they are heavily ported W2's.
 
barnett468 said:
you are talking about a rare exception to the rule and as you mentioned, those heads were ported, not stock, therefore, the same rule applies with one minor alteration, roller cams are a waste of money on iron heads UNLESS they are heavily ported W2's.
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I disagree. The W2 flows enough air to move a vehicle very well and a solid roller wouldn't be wasted in a as cast head.

Now a second down memory lane. Before the W2 introduction, didn't small block racers run in the 10's?

Anybody have a "Mr. 4 speed" video?

Now bang for the buck, since your already spending huge, I say you might as well port it and Max it out.

To me, 2 things suck about the W2. Valve train expense!
Exhaust expense!
And has everyone noticed the cost of new aluminum intakes? As in gone through the roof!
 
rumblefish360 said:
I disagree. The W2 flows enough air to move a vehicle very well and a solid roller wouldn't be wasted in a as cast head.

Now a second down memory lane. Before the W2 introduction, didn't small block racers run in the 10's?

Anybody have a "Mr. 4 speed" video?

Now bang for the buck, since your already spending huge, I say you might as well port it and Max it out.

To me, 2 things suck about the W2. Valve train expense!
Exhaust expense!
And has everyone noticed the cost of new aluminum intakes? As in gone through the roof!
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I think we grew up in the same era Rumble. After getting out of the service in 70' I was always an avid NHRA/Drag race follower. I'm sure many of the newer members aren't old enough to have seen Garlits in his prime, Sox & Martin, Butch Leal, Shirley Shahan, Ron Mancini, The Ramchargers, ..et al. I could go on forever. The Direct Connection and their instructional manuals contained a wealth of knowledge for both small and big block. Straight from the factory racers. I'm sure not many even know that Bob Glidden ruled pro stock the year he ran a small block Plymouth Arrow. Thanks for your comments. This thread has lost my interest. Cyl head materials? Everyone has their own personal preference and budget. I'm sure the air flowing through the head doesn't know the difference. Cams ?? It's usually a no brainer. Pick the manufacturer you prefer, talk with the tech spec there, inform him of your specific application, and let him do what he gets paid for. Warning for newby's. The tech spec will ask you about 100 questions including final gear ratios and tire sizes. Quite an educational experience. It will give you an insight as to what to consider when you 're creating your engines personality. After you build a few engines you'll really learn to appreciate the tech experts advice. My favorite saying....If you want to know how to do something just go to the guy that's been doing it every day for years. The experts. It's really that simple for me. You can always learn something new.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I disagree. The W2 flows enough air to move a vehicle very well and a solid roller wouldn't be wasted in a as cast head.

Now a second down memory lane. Before the W2 introduction, didn't small block racers run in the 10's?

Anybody have a "Mr. 4 speed" video?

Now bang for the buck, since your already spending huge, I say you might as well port it and Max it out.

To me, 2 things suck about the W2. Valve train expense!
Exhaust expense!
And has everyone noticed the cost of new aluminum intakes? As in gone through the roof!
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You are now saying that they flow enough to justify a roller cam but the valve train is expensive so you are still talking about a lot of money . Unless someone is rich and wants a roller just because, or is trying to eek out every 10th of a second in the quarter miles, they do not need a roller cam and with marginal flowing heads, the power difference between a good solid and a good roller well not be big . I love roller cams, but my point is directed at the op and I am trying to save him some money . If someone wants to haul ***, they can run a roller and ported Eddy Victor heads with T&D rockers and Ferrea hollow stem valves with Manley Nextek springs and Tool steel retainers . That setup will only cost them around $7,000.00 . Then they buy MOREL lifters and a custom billet roller cam for another $1,000.00.

Unfortunately, the good aftermarket aluminum heads for a Mopar are almost twice as much as they are for Fords and Chevy's, and if you run heads that require offset rockers, the rockers are 3 times as much.
 
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lroman said:
We're on the same page there AJ. Too bad you're living so far away in the great white North. I think we could solve a lot of the worlds problems after consuming an adequate amount of Labatt's Blue. That's the favorite drink after our over 60 hockey(Beer)league games.
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Well, I very seldom drink beer, and I have never played hockey, But I can tell/show you a few things I have learned in the Bible, that might knock your socks off! Thx for the invite tho.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Well, I very seldom drink beer, and I have never played hockey, But I can tell/show you a few things I have learned in the Bible, that might knock your socks off! Thx for the invite tho.
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I'm on your side AJ. You can't go wrong livin' by the Good Book. If more people lived out what they read the world would be a much better place. By for now .
 
Barnett, I think your taking things out of context a bit. You said, "Now your saying..."
If you paid attention....

The expense of a roller cam you equate to the rich.....
Sad point of veiw.
Let's see where it is at and your vision is. Louder between expense and fact. You need only do your history homework.

The abilty of the W2 to flow air in stock for is enough to propel a car into the gems. Eight is the main concern. Streetabilty is not. IF one wanted to go this route, they could and it would be similar to the older classes in racing. Like super stock, no head porting. Cam unlimited. Etc....

For the street guy, the extra expense of the valve train makes this kind of pricey and I desirable. So, IF someone went this way and has this type of money, might as well fully port the head. But that's if they have the cash.

Don't be so eager to put words in my mouth.
Don't be so eager to twist my words and meanings.
 
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And another thing, you point to the OP. He is not even near this direction. Your point is moot and reads like a child's lie.
 
rumblefish360 said:
<a href="Post 11 second small block combos">Post 11 second small block combos</a>

I think this is a link to a post that demonstrates a stock heads abilty.
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Thanks Rumble. Well said. I think we have a case of apples and oranges. As mentioned, the average 3-5K $ street motor versus the 7K and up race motor. All credibility was lost when the aluminum/iron discussion started. It has all to do with the design. Not the material. The air can't tell the difference in the material. Keep up the good replies. I'm outa' here. I've got things in the garage that need to be addressed. Later.
 
lroman said:
Apparently you're no familiar with the early race W2 heads (iron). There are small block strokers out there with over 400 cid using ported W2s running in the 10's. I'm sure they're all running solid rollers. I don't think I'd tell them they wasted their money on iron heads. As you mentioned...It's all about how much air you can flow through the engine.
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You don't need w2heads, solid roller cam and a stroker to run 10s....


Cruising on the Oregon coast for the week........
 
70aarcuda said:
You don't need w2heads, solid roller cam and a stroker to run 10s....


Cruising on the Oregon coast for the week........
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Amen to that. It's all about the recipe. There are many ways to get 'from here to there'. Do your research...make your choices.
 
lroman said:
Thanks Rumble. Well said. I think we have a case of apples and oranges. As mentioned, the average 3-5K $ street motor versus the 7K and up race motor. All credibility was lost when the aluminum/iron discussion started. It has all to do with the design. Not the material. The air can't tell the difference in the material. Keep up the good replies. I'm outa' here. I've got things in the garage that need to be addressed. Later.
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Enjoy the garage and the day. Your right about the above. Some people just like to argue and put words in your mouth on a off topic subject. Just a mention of the W2 sends people off into a tangent and twist words and meanings. The OP will never go there with his street combo.

Enjoy gliderider!
 
70aarcuda said:
You don't need w2heads, solid roller cam and a stroker to run 10s....

Cruising on the Oregon coast for the week........
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Then again, for those who seem to miss the words in my post (obviously not you tony!) I wouldn't suggest such a thing ether. The power to run well with stock heads is there as cast. Perfacar's set up is an extreme case of maxing out the whole package.

Again, for those who missed it the last few times, gliderider a package is a nice one good to go IMO.
 
Thanks fellas. I am trying to keep things fairly simple; use what I already have and build a fun, reliable motor that will scoot down the road pretty quickly. I hope that I can sell the 318 to help fund this project, thus is why I am planning in using my J's. They are 1970 castings w/2.02's. If I do use them I will do a mild porting, gasget match and smooth the bowls. Nothing crazy. Machine shop will do whatever else they will need to rebuild them.
If I don't sell the 318 then I will use the Eddys and some other stuff off it.
I will not use any type of roller cam. I might do a mechanical lifter cam, but really uncertain if I will and will have to research that option more before making any decision.
Thanks for all the replies!
 
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