Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
You can run either, most or many used to to tell you gear oil made the sync sliders sticky and wouldnt shift smooth.
I read that too. That's why my Ragtop just has 75w-90 now.
You can run either, most or many used to to tell you gear oil made the sync sliders sticky and wouldnt shift smooth.
I'd like to say that when I hurt some synchros ..that it was one of two things...switching to 90w... it the non performance pedal set and very quick shifts with it... but eventually it started grinding here n there and then it didnt slide right into gear, it need more force...you can feel the engagement as where you didnt before. Been 10 yrs like that. ..now I have a kit and will change the synchros and input bearing.I read that too. That's why my Ragtop just has 75w-90 now.
Before you condemn the synchros and the lube. I would make sure you're getting full clutch departure. I've pealed a couple of bell crank arms off of the z-bar, trying to throw fast shifts at the dragstrip. Sometimes the bell crank arms can twist and bend, too, which detracts from efficient t/o bearing travel.I'd like to say that when I hurt some synchros ..that it was one of two things...switching to 90w... it the non performance pedal set and very quick shifts with it... but eventually it started grinding here n there and then it didnt slide right into gear, it need more force...you can feel the engagement as where you didnt before. Been 10 yrs like that. ..now I have a kit and will change the synchros and input bearing.
It actually calls for GL4 in factory manual. The brass synchros dont wear with that particular oil. Just drained the 140 out to put in 90. The 140 was hard to shift until it got warmed up.I run 20w50 in mine. You don't want to use GL5 in anything with synchros. The GL5 additives don't work well with brass. GL3 is available at most tractor supplies.
Yep. Me too.I would say pennzoil synchromesh. I’ve ran that before in the A833 and I liked it.
What Viscosity or Weight is the Synchromesh?
If you really want to know what oil to run call Brewer's. They're the experts.It actually calls for GL4 in factory manual. The brass synchros dont wear with that particular oil. Just drained the 140 out to put in 90. The 140 was hard to shift until it got warmed up.
Well since you always seem to do the opposite of what I recommend...
I recommend sawdust and pee...
They sell a mineral base Sta-Lube 85W-90 GL-4 and a full synthetic Red Line 75W-90 GL-4. Either will work well, but if using the synthetic may need you to have the later synchronizers with the oil bleeds.If you really want to know what oil to run call Brewer's. They're the experts.
Time marches on. Products are updated as specs become obsolete. There used to be six gear lube classifications, GL1 through 6. Now only 4 & 5 are currently specified. Case in point, try finding any of those listed in your service manual. Straight 80, 90 or 140 really don't exist anymore as most are multigrades. Also, that Dexron specced hasn't existed in that form since the '70s (probably). So, do the best you can with what's available.It actually doesn't say GL-4 in the service manual, it doesn't say GL anything. Here is a picture of my '69 lubricant call out.
View attachment 1715988814
It actually doesn't say GL-4 in the service manual, it doesn't say GL anything. Here is a picture of my '69 lubricant call out.
View attachment 1715988814
No one is trying to win anything, just contribute the best way we know how. You followed the golden rule, which is to go to the factory service manual. I lent my knowledge and experience from 32 years in the lubes business to update your contribution. I'm sorry if you felt otherwise. It's all good my friend.Hope that the OP's head hasn't exploded by now. Some people just can't loose. Use what ever you want to use, it will be fine, but not with some people. For me, time to hit the UNWATCH THREAD BUTTON.