What Headers Needed?

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toddlaine

toddlaine

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Ok, the 72 Dart I just got had Hooker Long Tube Headers and glass packs bolted right on. Well went to the muffler shop today and got the glass packs removed and had flow master in it's place. Now since I can now hear with the glass packs out, the headers have a big crack on the rear outlet. The muffler guy said it can be repaired but would need to be taken out. These headers hang low and hit sometimes, thus the crack. I would like to put on new headers that can be installed easily and not hang so low. Car has 318, and power steering. Want to stay as cheap as possible but still be tucked up and not involve a hard install. Previous owner said he had to remove the engine to install the current headers. Definitely something I don't want to do.

Thanks,
 
The only choices of headers that do not hang under the steering linkage are expensive, as in very, from tti or Doug's. Check Summit racing for these parts.
 
Not really interested in a performance car, just want a cruiser. How about stock manifold. Where can i get one. Junk Yards are scarce around here after Katrina.
 
Search the classifieds here and on line, perhaps a swap meet. Exhaust manifolds may be restrictive, but Comp Cams makes a line of cams designed around them. They have a lot more exhaust duration to help balance the package out.
 
Just read about stock 340 exhaust manifold. Are these better and what years to get that will work?
 
Welcome from south Texas. The hp stock 340 manifolds are rather expensive. You might want to find some headers or 360 manifolds at a swap meet. Since spring is just around the corner here in the south, swap meets will be in full swing. I have a set of Hooker Competition headers that are in decent shape, but someone had them hooked to sidepipes. The sidepipe outlets have been capped. PM me and I'll try to get some pictures for you.

Bill S.
 
you dont have to take the engine out. you only have to deal with the centerlink, with a pickle fork, it took me 2 minutes to pop it loose.the starter needs to be put into position with the header, and you need a short PH43 filter or equivilent. to make it easier , you can take the bolt out of the driver side motor mount and lift the engine up a couple inches. without the oil filter on, the passenger side slides right into position. it is not as hard as people make it out to be. if you get after the torsion bars a bit , they wont scrape . just a note , i have had my junk *** long tube hooker headers on my 318 for close to a year now, i drive the car every day, they dont scrape, they dont leak, they dont burn plug wires, and the paint has yet to burn off, and the bottom tubes look just as new as the day i got them for 179.00 to the door.
 
73AbodEE said:
you don't have to take the engine out. you only have to deal with the centerlink, with a pickle fork, it took me 2 minutes to pop it loose.the starter needs to be put into position with the header, and you need a short PH43 filter or equivalent. to make it easier , you can take the bolt out of the driver side motor mount and lift the engine up a couple inches. without the oil filter on, the passenger side slides right into position. it is not as hard as people make it out to be. if you get after the torsion bars a bit , they wont scrape . just a note , i have had my junk *** long tube hooker headers on my 318 for close to a year now, i drive the car every day, they don't scrape, they don't leak, they don't burn plug wires, and the paint has yet to burn off, and the bottom tubes look just as new as the day i got them for 179.00 to the door.
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I agree, I hear all the time that cheap headers scrape, burn wires etc. I have yet to experience it. They are a bit of a chore to put on, but nothing you can't do in a day. I bought the Summit headers for my car for less than 150.00 to the door. The driver side header will take a little longer than the passenger side to install.

If you go that route, be sure to use good gaskets such as Remflex.
 
Badsport said:
I agree, I hear all the time that cheap headers scrape, burn wires etc. I have yet to experience it. They are a bit of a chore to put on, but nothing you can't do in a day. I bought the Summit headers for my car for less than 150.00 to the door. The driver side header will take a little longer than the passenger side to install.

If you go that route, be sure to use good gaskets such as Remflex.
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not to threadjack, but i get so tired of hearing how horrible and junky long tube A body headers are. they get such a bad rap because people are trying to put these on without doing it in steps, or taking proper precautions to keep them from burning wires, leaking or scraping. it took me less than 3 hours to take my complete exhaust apart and get the headers on and all bolted up. you have to get the front of the car 2 feet or more off the ground to make it easier. you cannot put these on and think you can drive the car with it 2 inches off the ground. good gaskets, 45 or 90 degree plug wire boots on the number 5 and 7 plugs will keep the wires off the headers, and a short filter. buy a new, good quality starter so you arent dicking with it later. if you dont have the money for shorties and you dont want to break the bank on manifolds, this is the way to go. im not going to lie, they can test your patience if you dont follow an order. but after you have done it once, the next time will be a piece of cake. just my $0.02 cents worth.
 
heads up whitepunkonnitro has a pair of 318 factory manifolds for sale right now 60+ the ride. better hurry those will go fast
 
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