it probably is original to the car if it's newer than '74, chrysler switched to this configuration for sure in 1976 (my '76 duster FSM shows it), likely in '75, I bought a GM style one off of amazon when I did my disc brake conversion, had to change one fitting on one master cyl line (to rear brakes), everything else fit perfectly location and thread wise.
this is for drum brakes and just has the brake safety switch in it. if you already have the newer style prop valve in there, it might be easier to buy a GM style one (what chrysler switched to in the mid 70's) than to try plumb in a '69-74 style one
master cyl was the same w/drums or discs in front in '76, according to my FSM....masters were different if it was manual or power brakes, though....
Yeah I got that part out, I just don't know how to get out the shuttle valve. Someone who rebuilt theirs told me to blow air from one side and as long as the air comes out on the other side, I should be good to leave it in. Thanks!He rigged up the thing and pushed it out with a grease gun. wouldn't be hard to do.
Thanks for all the info pat. I should be able to rebuild the original prop valve fairly easily. I'm gonna work on it tomorrow. The thing that might be a pain is flaring the brake line that goes to the passenger front caliper while the line is still routed all the way to that caliper. When I was taking that line off the prop valve, I had to break it off because the nut was too far seized. I traced the line and it's routed pretty nicely but it would be tough to get that line out and re-route a new one. I only took off like an inch from that brake line so I'm hoping I can flare it while it's still routed and connect it back to the prop valve after it gets rebuilt.
Haha I'm super careful to put the nut on first because I've heard of so many stories. Hasn't happened to me yet but let's not jynx it. Thanks for the reminder
JDMopar provided the first correct answer. While its true the automobile manufactures sometimes bought the same products from the brake manufactures, so that valve may have GM/Ford/AMC/IH applications too. My point is the metering valves were used on the mid size Chrysler products.
Crowd source summary sheet and photos of Master Cylinders - Work in Progress
www.forabodiesonly.com
Thanks for the info. I'll put my prop valve back together after cleaning everything and I'll do that test to measure psi between the master and prop valve and outlet of the prop valve. There's only one brake line going under the car and to the "T" which then splits the pressure to either side right? So could I just blow air into the line that goes under the car and make sure that the air is coming out of both bleeders? If it is then the issue has to be with the connections going to the master/prop valve right?
mine broke on the caliper side (see arrow)...I bought a short piece of line with fittings on both sides and bent the loop, then cut back the line on the car around where the red circle is, put a nut on it and flared it, then used a union like one of these to connect it up: Amazon.com you might be able to find a relatively accessible and straight section on your existing brake line to be able to do the same instead of remaking the entire line.
That's a great idea, I'll see if I can do the same. The thing is, I barely cut any line off from the existing brake line. I cut it very close to where the line goes in the prop valve so I'm thinking that if I bend the line differently, it'll be able to hook back up. I probably cut like an inch or two off. If it doesn't reach no matter what I do, I'll definitely try your idea. Thanks!
