68383GTS
Well-Known Member
Dang I thought this thread was DEAD..
LOL Jim
LOL Jim
What oil has zinc now?
- Thread starter 68383GTS
- Start date
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Suregrip391
Well-Known Member
I was waiting for that! Ha!:cheers:
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Read this and pay special attention about additives. I was all about additives as you mentioned but now I' questioning that.
I used to work in an oil testing lab and would liek to clear up some misconceptions. These recommendations are for street driving of cars that do not have extreme modifications. If you are racing or have extreme lift cams or other very high performance parts this info does not really apply because your drving conditions are different.
for multi weight oil like 10w 30 or 20w 50 the oil has viscocity modifiers added so it is more pourable at a lower temperature. what this means is at low temperature a 10w 30 pours like an oil with a viscocity of 10 so it will flow more easily in a cold engine. This is important even if you live in the south because your oil will begin lubricating your engine more quickly when you first start it when the majority of wear occurs.
In normal street driving I don't reccomend additives. The additives in the oil are balanced for specific purposes and adding other additives will throw off this balance and create unintended consequnces. I am not a complete expert but I do know if you add excessive anti wear additives you will decrease the oils ability to deal with oxidation. This causes the oil to get gummy and create that nasty oil varnish you see in engines.
A lower viscocity oil will slightly increase performance and mileage but it may not be noticable.
My personal reccomendation is a 5w 30 or 10w 30 for any and all vehicles and if you want you can use a synthetic but it is not necessary. If you live in extreme cold (Northern MN or AK) I do reccomend a synthetic 0w 30
Suregrip391
Well-Known Member
Ok, good info, thats for sure! But now I am back to looking for an off the shelf oil that will not damage my engine. I have always used Valvoline Racing 20w50 in all my cars. This is the stuff off the shelf at Autozone. The bottle does not say Off Road or anything like that. From reading this thread it used to be a good oil but now the zinc content is a lot lower. Has anyone come up with a decent off the shelf oil they can post here that is readily found at an auto parts store that is ok to use?
demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
Okay, this is what I've used for a few years now. Valvoline VR1 10w30 with 1/2 bottle of EOS to be on the safe side going into a BB with a lumpy cam. I ain't going to get into it any further than that, Sorry.
Terry
ramcharger
Dismember
Axe is right. Viscosity modifiers, seal conditioners, etc, all reduce the lubricity of the oil itself. Back in the day (early eighties) Crane used to recommend straight weight oil for cam break-in for just this reason.
The problem is that the high pressure additives that used to be in oil (zinc phosphates) have been reduced to prevent catalytic converter failure in older cars that burn some oil.
I used the Hughes additive on engine break-in and the subsequent oil change. Now that it's winter here (it was 9 F this morning) I have switched out to 10W-40 with no additive. Cam hasn't puked yet in over 300 miles since swapping oils.
The problem is that the high pressure additives that used to be in oil (zinc phosphates) have been reduced to prevent catalytic converter failure in older cars that burn some oil.
I used the Hughes additive on engine break-in and the subsequent oil change. Now that it's winter here (it was 9 F this morning) I have switched out to 10W-40 with no additive. Cam hasn't puked yet in over 300 miles since swapping oils.
ramcharger
Dismember
What's wrong Terry? Sick of beating a dead horse? lol! :-D
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
VR1 is good it has around 1200ppm people just add more Zinc for saftey
ramcharger
Dismember
Just to add more complexity, there are two VR-1 oils that Valvoline puts out. One is race only, that's the good stuff. The regular VR-1 is good oil, no doubt, but not suitable for break in.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
ok they are both good, and they are both good fo break in IF you use EOS or something thats a zinc addative, Im just using some joe Gibbs Brake in Oil
I'm beginning the switch to Amsoil Premium Protection and their filters. That oil has over 1300ppm ZDDP and is supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. The filter is guaranteed for 25,000 miles. And if someone were to actually go 15K on a change it's cheaper to run their oil and filter than any other oil (with ZDDP additive) and change it every 3000.
With all the lubrication products that I sell, Brad Penn 0-30 is the best best bang for the buck as a break in and street/race oil. Its is a partial synthetic and flows great. My engines always look great after 250-300 runs. Redline differential oil and any good tranny fluid, changed regularly, will do the job. Email me at [email protected] for any of these products. Thanks
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
how much MP?
67gtx
Well-Known Member
We got what Wildcat's got, CompCam zinc additive to break in the boy this weekend. They said if we didn't use it, it would void the warranty.
Longgone
John/68 Barracuda & Dart
It had to come out:
PISSEDDRUNKERD
Banned
No kidding.
There isn't a ''one size fits all'' answer to this question.
There isn't a ''one size fits all'' answer to this question.
Your banned 3404spdval. Sorry dude.
tyler_s18
k-member
put a thing of BG's MOA in it. i just sat thru a boring BG seminar but in it we learned all about the zinc and that is what MOA has. he put a bearing on a smooth grinder thing and put motorcrap oil on the bearing and put 35ft lbs on it and it stopped the grinder. then he added MOA the the oil and it got to over 75lbs and still was goin. i cant explain it to well but it is what i will add to my valvoline oil when i break in my motors. there is another brand of oil from a guy based in denver that did even better but i cant remember the name so will find out what it is and let u know. it was like red man or somethn similar lol but ya MOA is the stuff to use in my opinion
koryliss
Well-Known Member
2shelbys,
I noticed the reference in the thread to composite lifers.
I have tried two sets of ceramics (full custom made radial lifters - see pix) - both sets caused cam failure in street use. Both lived well through break in and multiple dyno runs but ultimately wiped the cam. Admittedly street duty with high velocity ramps / big lift can be very rough on a cam - tried multiple profiles. Great power but not life. Both lifter sets were made by Joe Shubeck - he supplied the cam as well.
In any case, I can not speak for all ceramic lifters - but I have a very lightened wallet that says they are not for street use.
Kory
I noticed the reference in the thread to composite lifers.
I have tried two sets of ceramics (full custom made radial lifters - see pix) - both sets caused cam failure in street use. Both lived well through break in and multiple dyno runs but ultimately wiped the cam. Admittedly street duty with high velocity ramps / big lift can be very rough on a cam - tried multiple profiles. Great power but not life. Both lifter sets were made by Joe Shubeck - he supplied the cam as well.
In any case, I can not speak for all ceramic lifters - but I have a very lightened wallet that says they are not for street use.
Kory
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Ceramic lifters? And just when I thought I have seen it all. lol
What type block is that if you don't mind me asking? I'm old school LA motor guy.
What type block is that if you don't mind me asking? I'm old school LA motor guy.
koryliss
Well-Known Member
mullinax95,
Do I mind? Ask a gear-head to talk about his engine? What is better than this.....
I have used two blocks - both are 340 resto blocks... one is siamese but if you didn't have the sonic test sheets I don't think you can tell the difference. At least I can not tell from the pictures.....
Do I mind? Ask a gear-head to talk about his engine? What is better than this.....
I have used two blocks - both are 340 resto blocks... one is siamese but if you didn't have the sonic test sheets I don't think you can tell the difference. At least I can not tell from the pictures.....
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I was wondering because the lifter gallery looks different than my 360. As you can tell I've not seen a lot of small block mopars. All I ever dealt with mostly over years was big blocks. I had a chance at a 400 or 440 but passed because it would take a lot of changes from small block trim.
But back on topic... I ran a 383 for over 15 yrs on nothing but straight dino oil with no problems. Cam never gave me any troubles using Valvoline 10w-40. I knew nothing about zinc. I guess however they slowly took the zinc out through the years and until now it wasn't a problem. ???
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