What oil's for flat tappet, stock LA Cams ?

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C300

C300

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I'm sure this has been addressed a lot. Sticky ? Stock cam's coming apart because no Zinc in new oils. I'm not wanting to run Brad Penn in a tow vehicle at $11-12 a Quart. I can't buy the additive I got in the past. What's the best option ? I see lots of cars with flat tappets. Not looking to do a roller. No EDM'd, OIL THRU LIFTERs or Ceramic ones. Options ? thanks ! C300
 
I dont see stock cams coming apart with no zinc. Those are work hardened over the years. Diesel oils used to have zinc, but break in lubes will break cams in fine. COuld probably run conventional oils after that. If you feel you need zinc, the older diesel oils still have plenty of zinc.
 
Mobil-1 15w50 has the extra zinc in it for flat tappet cams and is available at walmart
 
You only really need the hi zinc in engines with higher spring psi, or duel springs. That said the diesel oils still have more than regular oil so I would use that. IF you do have a hi lift duel spring cam then step up to VR1 or Gibbs or what ever you can fine easily.
 
I was talking to a guy the other day (he's probably a member on here. R.C.) who has some bad-*** Mopar motors and said he breaks them in with Rotella-T diesel oil. I've also heard this from a lot of others. I don't remember what Brian (IMM) uses (might have been Brad Penn).
 
Got this engine as is. Just didn't want the cam I put in it doing the same thing !
 

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I just recently switched over to Valvoline VR - 1 10-30 racing oil for the zinc up until then I was using a zinc supplement but unfortunately they quit selling it. I would prefer using a supplement and going back to Castrol GTX oil.
 
OUTLAW said:
I just recently switched over to Valvoline VR - 1 10-30 racing oil for the zinc up until then I was using a zinc supplement but unfortunately they quit selling it. I would prefer using a supplement and going back to Castrol GTX oil.
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Your reply planted a seed in My head. When I got My '67 Formula S in 1984, It was used for road rallying up till they gave it to their Daughter. The Trans input shaft bearing went 6 months after that and i got it. Weird Bearing size, No one had a bearing for it. I shimmed and ground the OD of a Marine bearing to fit... They were serious about the car, and one of the things they told Me is that they ONLY used Castrol GTX 10-40 oil. I've continued that, but haven't run the car for 15 years. Been stored. So thanks, OUTLAW. That's what I'm going to do. Same good oil With ZDDP additive. Guess I'll order up a case of ZDDP on line, and run all the old Iron with that. Thanks again, C300 :cheers:
 
ive read up a lot about this since im about to break in a 360 with a mild cam and I decided to go with lucas hot rod oil in 10W30

seemed to come highly recommended on the site
 
GEO said:
Mobil-1 15w50 has the extra zinc in it for flat tappet cams and is available at walmart
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Yes, it's specially formulated for flat tappets according to their website and product sheet. Just that one weight, though -- don't sub any of their other products. I have been using it in my Barracuda and also in my MG, which ate its previous cam and lifters running the factory recommendation, Castrol 20W50.
 
Have been running Lucas Hot Rod oil in my truck. So far so good. It's is 2100 PPM of zinc.
 
The detergents they put in oil also play havoc with the pour in zinc additives. Your better off getting a racing oil that has zinc in it instead of adding it to a regular oil.
 
I'm using Valvoline VR-1 in my 71 Charger 383. Another 71 Charger 383 owner I know lost the cam in his engine. Whether it was lust plain worn out or and oil issue, I don't know, but I'd rather not find out the hard way due to an oil issue..

The lower zinc oils are formulated to preserve the catalytic converters on newer cars. If you don't have a converter, I don't see nay reason not to use the older higher zinc level oils.
 
Pennzoil with a bottle of comp cam additive..but my buddy whos a engine guru just started stocking the Gibbs which is loaded with zinc will be switching over..
 
I just used penn grade 30wt to break in the motor. Now using penn grade15-40. My question is it worth the extra money ? Does it have more zinc than others?
 
I don't know I like using the VR1 that's made for flat tappet hi performance engines. What's regular good name brand oil a quart $3 vs VR1 at $5 or $6? I'll spend the extra $10/$15 dollars on my expensive engine! No need to pinch penny's here LOL.
P.S. VR1 has usually gone on sale every April or May
 
After seeing many hot rod motors at the shop with oil related damage, we use Joe Gibbs oils. We're a dealer for them. Not the only game in town, but quality oils with a total lubricant solution for us as a hot rod shop.
 
My 318 wiped a lobe and I was just using store brand oil. Since I have a lot more invested in the 340, I have Lucas SAE30 break in oil, and Royal Purple HPS 10W30 for after the break in. At what point is there too much Zinc?
 
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