What Products are Needed in the A-body world?

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Thanks for the input. I didnt see the post before about building things comparable to the Fox body Mustang stuff. Control arms are doable in the same price range as most other control arms. K-members may be somewhat close to other prices, but no guarantees. Would a K-member/control arm/coilover setup be desirable if the stock steering was still used? The rack and pinion, mounts, coupler, etc are all things that add up to a more expensive unit in the end.
The 4-link deal is definitely something I want to do. I am pouring a driveway in front of my garage tomorrow, and then I will probably bring the Valiant over to my place next week. Once I have it in the air in the garage, I can really start visualizing things and maybe come up with some other ideas that may be of interest.
Thanks again to everyone! Keep any ideas coming!
 
Early A quarter patch panels that look better than the Sherman built ones that are the only ones available now. Trunk floor extensions too. toolman
 
11.75 caliper brackets, aluminum bumper brackets, tubular trans mount. This would be a good start.
 
kujo said:
11.75 caliper brackets, aluminum bumper brackets, tubular trans mount. This would be a good start.
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Thanks for the input. Tubular trans mount that bolts into the factory torsion bar crossmember? Or a tubular crossmember that houses the torsion bars and forms a new transmission mount? Just curious.
 
Purple Haze said:
Don't know if anyone said it but 70-71 Duster tail light lenses.
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I believe repro 70-71 Duster tail light assemblies were just introduced late last year.

A full factory torsion bar crossmember would be nice for the resto guys. AMD offers one for B's and one for E's. An A-body crossmember would be their next logical offering. Though it's not too difficult finding NOS ones and plenty of used ones can be had but a virginal AMD piece would be nice. A tubular one as discussed would fill a niche for the modified cars but the factory style crossmember could easily be home stiffened with a little welding trickery and remain stock appearing.

1970 Valiant fender emblems. Unless your lucky enough to find an NOS pair, we're stuck using bleached out originals and they look ridiculous.

The 1970 only Valiant/Duster center grille emblem. Some good used ones are out there but usually have a few pits and blemishes. I just heard of someone hoarding and refurbishing them, new chrome, the works. Haven't seen one up close yet though to judge quality.
 
Early A sheetmetal. I am also looking into going to business on my own (automotive repro parts)... it will be a big surprise if/when. I will let you all know.
 
Thanks a bunch guys! I have to remember to check on this thread regularly...sorry. Big hook, I have the Valiant emblems on my '71 Valiant. The emblem itself looks to have a raised edge around it...is this true? Mine also are all bleached out. My thoughts however, are what about a sticker that would be placed inside the "lip" on the emblem and replicate the old font and color? Would this be something that would work for you guys? I havnt seen a good one to be able to compare to what it would look like with a sticker placed on the emblem. If this would work, please let me know. This could be a pretty cheap fix to a seemingly common problem.

A kit to replace tie rods with heim joints is another doable idea. I like it. Just our of curiosity, what is the added benefit of doing this? I know it has been done, I know heims are nice and pretty, but do they have a big advantage over a stock tie rod? Just wondering.
Thanks again guys!
 
toolmanmike said:
Early A quarter patch panels that look better than the Sherman built ones that are the only ones available now. Trunk floor extensions too. toolman
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X2 1966 models A bodies are out in the cold Mike...1/4ers man.. I will redesign what I have before I pay $700.00 a side ( and that is just lower 1/4ers) just for the metal to be cut with no lip area repair.. Hay I was young before and with all the good tools these day this should be an easy patch panel, But no, it's not available .................... :x
 
curleysracecars said:
Thanks a bunch guys! I have to remember to check on this thread regularly...sorry. Big hook, I have the Valiant emblems on my '71 Valiant. The emblem itself looks to have a raised edge around it...is this true? Mine also are all bleached out. My thoughts however, are what about a sticker that would be placed inside the "lip" on the emblem and replicate the old font and color? Would this be something that would work for you guys? I havnt seen a good one to be able to compare to what it would look like with a sticker placed on the emblem. If this would work, please let me know. This could be a pretty cheap fix to a seemingly common problem.

A kit to replace tie rods with heim joints is another doable idea. I like it. Just our of curiosity, what is the added benefit of doing this? I know it has been done, I know heims are nice and pretty, but do they have a big advantage over a stock tie rod? Just wondering.
Thanks again guys!
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this would be a weight saving item for a stock steering box aplication if done with aluminum. also you would have no play or slop in the ends like you get with a stock type tie rod
 
mopwr2004a said:
this would be a weight saving item for a stock steering box aplication if done with aluminum. also you would have no play or slop in the ends like you get with a stock type tie rod
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Good to know. Thank you sir. I will have to look into it. Thanks again to everyone!
 
Haven't read the whole thread through, but, has anybody mentioned interior parts such as sail panels and headliners? These are thing I see asked for a lot on here. I know mine are not the best. :cheers:
 
curleysracecars said:
Big hook, I have the Valiant emblems on my '71 Valiant. The emblem itself looks to have a raised edge around it...is this true? Mine also are all bleached out. My thoughts however, are what about a sticker that would be placed inside the "lip" on the emblem and replicate the old font and color? Would this be something that would work for you guys? I havnt seen a good one to be able to compare to what it would look like with a sticker placed on the emblem. If this would work, please let me know. This could be a pretty cheap fix to a seemingly common problem.
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CRC, the border is a raised edge or 'lip' if you will. I've thought about a decal die cut to size and placed within the lip. It would not lay completely flat though because The 'VALIANT' letters are raised or embossed creating an uneven surface. Studying the emblem, it originally appears that maybe the black portion was pad printed which is a method of imprinting a substrate with an irregular surface. In this case, it's the embossed Valiant letters that remain unprinted with ink. That is followed by a thin plastic sheet over the entire area which is either affixed by adhesive or just vacuum applied.

The fading seems to occur because either the ink is too thin which in turn will fade just from natural UV light or water and air migrate behind the final seal which also accelerates fading. For such a simple emblem, it seems to be more complicated than just applying a decal (but I wish it was that simple).
 
curleysracecars said:
Good to know. Thank you sir. I will have to look into it. Thanks again to everyone!
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2011-02-28_21-31-38_138-2.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics! I was thinking about just something that threaded onto the current tie rod, but replaced the ball joint. Looking at your pic, it would be more money obviously, but it may be worth it...getting rid of as many balljoints a possible. Thanks again for the pic!
 
When you get around to making Upper Control Arms, get rid of that nuisance mopar ball joint. Put a decent sized heim joint in it's place.

There is little load on that upper joint. With an actual camber adjustment in that location you can set the caster & still adjust the camber.

The only reason for the tapered hole in the spindle is to grip the shank so you can tighten the nut. A through bolt & heim joint would be just fine, and much faster to make a camber adjustment at the track.

In fact, I would be happy with arms that simply had the proper caster built in with rubber bushings & stock bolts on the inner - and a camber adjust on the outer with no more screwed in ball joint.

B.
 
jimjimjimmy said:
thermoquad parts and jet kits metering rods and so on
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X2 and hell yes!!!

Often I have wished for someone to reproduce a carter strip kit. The original's are few and far between,plus super pricey when they do show up!
 
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