What the heck is up with 8-3/4" rearends?

-
I believe some year C bodies use the same rear as the E bodies.

Nope.


The reason you are finding them cheap may be because they really came out of a C body.

That's a possibility, because as you can see the '65-'69 C body rears are only a 1/4" different from the E-body 8 3/4's. But they really are different, I've measured both personally and can confirm this list is right in that case. The A100 actually does have the same width rear as the '65-'69 C bodies though. The E-body 8 3/4's are also less desirable though because the axles themselves step down in diameter after the splines, then step back up about half way down their length. What that means is that they can't be shortened, unless you make them REALLY short (they can't be shortened to A-body length). Most C-body axles had no such change in diameter along their length, so they can be shortened re-splined to A-body length. That's just the E-body axles, the housing can obviously be made any length you want, but then you're in for custom or aftermarket axles.

8 3/4 Housing widths, flange to flange

A BODY
'66-'72= 52 5/8"

B BODY
'62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge- tapered axles with center nut drums)
'64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge- tapered axles with center nut drums)
'65-'67= 54 1/4"
'68-'70= 54 15/16"
'71-'74= 57 7/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"

C BODY
'65-'69= 56 3/4"
'70-'71= 57 7/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'74= 59 7/16" (and '69 wagon)

IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 57"
'67-'69= 57 3/8"
'70-'71= 54 3/4"
'72-'73= 59 5/8"

E BODY
'70-'74= 56 31/64"

A100
'65-'70= 56 3/4"

D100
'65-'71= 58 5/16"
'72-'74= 59 7/16"
 
Just like a seller here that just posted a 600 Holley for $175. The one I bought for $100 must now be worth $175.
 
Might have been you who hid a nice Holley 1920 in a trunk at the Ecology yard in S.F.S., CA. Guess they figured no M-B diesel owner would also have an old slant. Wrong (me). I sold it to a local guy cheap to try to get his slant purring.

could have been! That yard used to rock, now we are relegated to the very back of the yard, but sometimes you find some gems in the back corner. I got my 2bbl slant intake off a truck there. I was on my way out and walked the truck section for kicks, bingo! Only thing wrong with the 8.8 is the thing weighs a ton.
 
Like others have said, I'm using 8 1/4 rears for the street, My Demon has an 8 3/4 that it came with. My Dusters will have the 8 1/4 with Sure Grip.
 
I paid a bundle for my 8.75 with sure grip ans 3.23 gears, fresh quality rebuild, drum to drum. And I drove 350 miles to get it. 1300.00 Dollars. But to me well worth the bread.

Do you need a 742 pumpkin w/a 30 spline spool and stock length a-body axles out of my 9-second Dart by chance?
 
Just like a seller here that just posted a 600 Holley for $175. The one I bought for $100 must now be worth $175.

This comment is funny!I have to assume this was directed towards my carb ads. I just sold it in less than 24 hours of listing it. This carb is a $325.00 carb on Summit and I had it priced at $175.00.This thing was only used a handful of times and looked like brand new. I'm not seeing the issue?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
 
Thing is they are asking close to NEW Dana prices for rebuilt 8 3/4 with LBP converted new axles.

And that is why you see a lot of cars with NEW Danas that IMHO don't need them.
 
I agree with that. The prices are for 40-50 year old parts that a lot of times, no one knows how good they are!For the prices they're asking, I might as well buy a new Dana. New parts with a warranty.
 
Do you need a 742 pumpkin w/a 30 spline spool and stock length a-body axles out of my 9-second Dart by chance?
No im good. This looks like this 66 Dart will be my last project car. And this is almost finished, just redoing things I think I can improve on. o and replacing a flat Camshaft.
 
My 83/4 LSD was only spinning one wheel. Got a rebuild kit from the states. Without including that in the price cost me $850 aus to get it laying two black lines instead of one.
Am told they are pretty much indestructible.
 
for the Duster/Demon/Dart Sport crowd... the 65-70 B-body ones are plentiful and cheap and work well.

My friend bought a 3.23 sure grip with the clutch type posi 1965 model one with brakes complete for $400. Not bad at all.

The A-body ones are stupid money especially when you get into LBP conversions.

Yep... For the amount I have into my 8 3/4, when you factor in purchase price and all of the other misc parts from Dr Diff, I could have almost just bought a Dana 60 from Dr Diff. And that would have required zero assembly and probably have given me less of a headache when it came to finding wheels.
 
I agree with that. The prices are for 40-50 year old parts that a lot of times, no one knows how good they are!For the prices they're asking, I might as well buy a new Dana. New parts with a warranty.

Exactly. The stuff that's left is the stuff that was passed over 25 years ago. Then passed over again 15 years ago, and so forth. These parts were just as sought after 25 years ago. Just the price has increased.

Bent, rusted pin holes, gouged/hammered/divited side seal areas from idiots R&R'ing them, machined seal decks with big pits from being stored on the ground in the barn/shed/under the house, etc etc.

And then these guys sell them as rebuilt units. That way they can move those lousy used parts as a unit cause you're not going to disassemble them to look at those critical areas. And in just 1 or 2 years of driving a few thousand miles the bondo and sealant used to band aid finally starts to let loose. :wack:
 
$150 - 68-70 B body housing
$150 - 68-70 B body axles that had 3" studs installed
$300 - 68 Bcuda clutch type 741 3.23SG center - used original
$80 - Green bearings
$100 - new 10x2.5" drum brakes
$20 - 1" aluminum lowering blocks

Didn't have to cut or weld anything bolted right in my 71 Demon after elongating the alignment hole in the 1" lowering blocks.. I plan on going to a 2" block and will post updated pics then in my thread..

 
I had 3 or 4 at one time. I'm down to 2 chunks. One 742 3.91 SG and one 741 3.23 open. If I only knew.
 
$150 - 68-70 B body housing
$150 - 68-70 B body axles that had 3" studs installed
$300 - 68 Bcuda clutch type 741 3.23SG center - used original
$80 - Green bearings
$100 - new 10x2.5" drum brakes
$20 - 1" aluminum lowering blocks

Didn't have to cut or weld anything bolted right in my 71 Demon after elongating the alignment hole in the 1" lowering blocks.. I plan on going to a 2" block and will post updated pics then in my thread..

Cost of offset shackles?
 
$150 - 68-70 B body housing
$150 - 68-70 B body axles that had 3" studs installed
$300 - 68 Bcuda clutch type 741 3.23SG center - used original
$80 - Green bearings
$100 - new 10x2.5" drum brakes
$20 - 1" aluminum lowering blocks

Didn't have to cut or weld anything bolted right in my 71 Demon after elongating the alignment hole in the 1" lowering blocks.. I plan on going to a 2" block and will post updated pics then in my thread..


So your in $800.00 for a b-body rear end......Whats your point ?
 
Just feel like ranting a little.

Over the years I've watched 8-3/4's go from $300 for a complete unit that you could bolt in your car and drive, to $500, to $800, and finally to people asking $1000 for a complete rear. And not a rebuilt one, just a complete one.

I realize they are not making any more of these, but what the heck, they aren't made of gold !

Ok, rant off.

I hear you bro.
Paid $500 for an 8.75 and small bolt disc brakes 10 years ago, and thought I was getting the shaft. Just like a 340 air cleaner, hipo manifolds,ect its now a sought after part, thus the price increase.
Getting one at a decent price will now be a right place at the right time situation.
 
Where are the part numbers located on the 8 ¾ housing for an A body?
Does anyone have the 64-69 and the 70 and up part numbers.
I have one in my 66 barracuda and would like to know what year and make it could be from.

Thanks
Dan
 
Where are the part numbers located on the 8 ¾ housing for an A body?
Does anyone have the 64-69 and the 70 and up part numbers.
I have one in my 66 barracuda and would like to know what year and make it could be from.

Thanks
Dan

Does anyone have an answer for this question?
 
-
Back
Top