PanGasket
has cork sides
Here. reach into this and change the oil filter. This is on a Subaru WRX/STi. The newer ones are all like this too. I had to find this picture and show my buddy when he wanted one. His mind changed pretty quick
I have a new challenger and the battery is in the trunk.
Which is ok but there is no key to open the trunk, it is all electrically remote operated.
I hope they incorporated some sort of method to jump the car from under the hood, if the battery goes dead.
Good point. My wife's 2012 Journey has the battery located up inside the driver side front fender, behind the inner fender. When it needs replacing, I think I'll replace the car too. )There should be a "jump" post under the hood
Would that be Fiat designers?
My wife's 300C has the battery in the trunk. I would rather have it there for wieght transfer.
I replaced it last winter, took about 10 minutes.
No reason not to drive late model MoPars. They are a blast.
Love the power of the HEMI.
Her 300C is quicker than my stock 1969 340 Dart was. 14.29 vs 14.80.
Handles great, love the comfort & 25MPG on top of that.
Saying there is no reason to drive late model MoPars is a copout.
Judging a car for where the battery is, doesn't make sense. NASCAR happens to put the battery behind the tire. guess it isn't a big deal with them.
ive gotten 300 bucks to change one of those.they look worse than they are,but yeah not very maintenance minded...I plan to never own one of the newer Mopars and that was even before Fiat took them over.
Try one of the mid to late 90s Cadillac Northstar starters where they put the damn thing under the intake.
My wife and I have a 93 Camaro 3.4L V6. As previously noted, to change the rear bank of spark plugs, you have to unbolt the front of the engine and rack it forward to get at them. The firewall, and therefore the rear of the engine, is actually about six inches, possibly more, behind the front lip of the cowl. It's insane! We also needed to change the oil pan for the car at one point, and had to drop the entire exhaust to do this because it crossed under the pan. Not exactly the kind of DIY driveway repair I'm used to or comfortable with.
Earlier this year we had the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and thermostat replaced on our 02 VW Passat GLX. This is what it looked like in the middle of that charlie foxtrot:
View attachment 1714636344
The entire front end of the car had to come off, or as VW calls it, it had to be put into the Service Position.
View attachment 1714636345
A closer look...
View attachment 1714636346
Closeup of the front of the engine while disassembled. I think someone else hit the proverbial nail on the head when they said that modern cars were built so that we would HAVE to take it in to the shop to be worked on. That's why I can't wait to get my Barracuda, so I'll have something to work on that I know I can do most of the work myself! On this VW, you have to disassemble the car like this just to change the THERMOSTAT! Nothing like a $300 repair bill just to replace your thermostat, right?
I have to admit, though, the VW is MUCH easier to replace the spark plugs and wires on! There's no reaching, no jacking the engine up, no trying to squeeze my hand into a space designed for a 2 year old. It took me all of 15 minutes to change the plugs and wires. That was a really nice change. So, you win some and you lose some.Vw's just plain suck to work on.
PCD said:What the hell were the designers at Chrysler thinking
Quit wrenching for car dealers in 95 or so. I worked for a Chrysler dealer in 95, or what ever year Chrysler took over Jeep/Eagle.
Those cars were total junk.
the only good jeep that didn't have issues was a 4 cyl, Wrangler, 4 speed, the others had Cat recalls, water pump bearing issues, the AWD mini vans had trans/transfer case/diff leaks not to mention the transmission issues they had.
The Eagles had master cylinders that seized and caused the brakes to drag, Monaco? What a joke of a car.
I had to replace the horns on a Cirrus or Stratus, I forget which. Book time said 2 hrs. WHAT????? I had to take out, the inner fender, the battery, the headlight, the radiator cooling fan, what a joke.
No different than the recall on the Mystiques and Contours. Paid out 2.5 hours. To drop the steering wheel, take out the instrument cluster, take off the glove box door, pull the dash down, drill holes in the dash, pull the padding tight, pop rivet the padding into place (hoping it didn't pop high enough to hit the windshield), stretch the padding back into place at the glove box and instrument cluster, pop rivet the padding into place and reinstall.
The guy who did them the most had it down to a science and it still took him five hours each one.
I had to do my share. Wasn't fun. And lost my *** on each one of them.
I always like the Ford F-series window motor replacement. No way of reaching into the door to get to it and with the time it paid, there was no way in hell of pulling the window and getting the regulator/motor out that way. Solution was to drill three 1/2" holes in three little dimples on the door frame and reach in with an 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket. At least they dimpled the frame where the bolts were, but wouldn't it have been easier to go ahead and stamp holes already?
And don't get me going on the damned hatch latch on the Explorers. Thank God for ratcheting wrenches.