What would cause engine to jam while cranking??

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22dog22

22dog22

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On going problem with getting my 69 Cuda 318,auto, to run.engine ran fine before , engine was a total rebuild, had about 500 miles on it,[ had a cheap Pro Comp dist. and matching coil, it got cooked by bad voltage reg. Have tried a Pertronix dist. and matching coil,[ all new plugs, wires, all voltage are correct ] car would start up, would run rough then die. gave up the Pertronix, have installed a Mopar type electronic ignition, dist., coil, resistor block ,wiring, Per instructions, put engine to 10 deg. before tdc, made sure rotor is pointing at #1 , double checked plug wire firing order, when cranking, engine seems like it is jamming, it will crank normal, then stop/jam , did not want to keep trying it, went to remove the + battery cable it was very warm never noticed that with the Pertronx, it seems like the starter is drawing a lot of amps, again did not have any type of issue with the Pertronx. tried to adjust timing at dist, does/did not change the way the engine is cranking, and no start.

Maybe I should just go back to a points system?
 
Ok, I just spoke with Rick at Rick's Mopar, we did some trouble shooting over the phone, I removed the coil wire and cranked the engine over, which took care of that issue,[ engine jam] he feels also that the timing is to far advanced, so he said I should start at the beginning, old school make sure timing marks on engine damper are correct, he reviewed but I got lost, he said to take an old spark plug ,clean it out so you can put a bolt in it to act as a stop, and rotate engine one way till the piston hits the stop and mark the spot on the timing plate and then rotate engine in the other direction till it hits the stop and mark it, some where in between the 2 marks would be TDC, then set to 10deg. before , from that reference point, pull dist, and make sure the dist. drive gear slot in facing the left front head bolt then make sure rotor is pointing to number 1 drop the dist. and wire the spark plug wires correctly he it should run then.

has anyone done this before, looking for some guidance.
 
22dog22 said:
Ok, I just spoke with Rick at Rick's Mopar, we did some trouble shooting over the phone, I removed the coil wire and cranked the engine over, which took care of that issue,[ engine jam] he feels also that the timing is to far advanced, so he said I should start at the beginning, old school make sure timing marks on engine damper are correct, he reviewed but I got lost, he said to take an old spark plug ,clean it out so you can put a bolt in it to act as a stop, and rotate engine one way till the piston hits the stop and mark the spot on the timing plate and then rotate engine in the other direction till it hits the stop and mark it, some where in between the 2 marks would be TDC, then set to 10deg. before , from that reference point, pull dist, and make sure the dist. drive gear slot in facing the left front head bolt then make sure rotor is pointing to number 1 drop the dist. and wire the spark plug wires correctly he it should run then.

has anyone done this before, looking for some guidance.
Click to expand...
Jesus criminey man, just grab the distributor and retard the timing.
 
I always install my dizzy 180 out on nee builds . Helps with break in !
NOT!
I seem to have a mental block about it . I verify tdc and rotor position twice and still do it !
Urghhh !!!
 
What RRR said . ∆ ∆ ∆ . .
I generally put #6 rockers in overlap, that means #1 is firing, timing mark should be at zero.
Drop shaft/distributor to have rotor pointing at #1 wire on cap.
Give it lotsa initial timing, - 12 - 25*s, an engine without lotsa timing will generate excess heat, fill float bowls, shot of gas down the carb.
Vroom, check for oil pressure, look underneath for leaks.
Set timing, check temp .
Good luck.
 
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22dog22 said:
Ok, I just spoke with Rick at Rick's Mopar, we did some trouble shooting over the phone, I removed the coil wire and cranked the engine over, which took care of that issue,[ engine jam] he feels also that the timing is to far advanced, so he said I should start at the beginning, old school make sure timing marks on engine damper are correct, he reviewed but I got lost, he said to take an old spark plug ,clean it out so you can put a bolt in it to act as a stop, and rotate engine one way till the piston hits the stop and mark the spot on the timing plate and then rotate engine in the other direction till it hits the stop and mark it, some where in between the 2 marks would be TDC, then set to 10deg. before , from that reference point, pull dist, and make sure the dist. drive gear slot in facing the left front head bolt then make sure rotor is pointing to number 1 drop the dist. and wire the spark plug wires correctly he it should run then.

has anyone done this before, looking for some guidance.
Click to expand...
See post no2 in this old thread
www.forabodiesonly.com

How to find tdc

What is the procedure for finding tdc using piston stop. Need to make sure my balancer is correct on small block
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
To time it, you need to make sure no1 is on compression. To do that, pull the no1 plug, stick your finger in the hole, and bump the engine until you BEGIN to feel compression. If you have not done this you may need to "go round" once to be sure. When you feel compression, watch the marks, bump or wrench the engine NOT clear to TDC, but rather so the marks are where you want initial timing, AKA 10BTC or whatever. Stick the dist in with the rotor in the direction closest you can get to no1. Rotate the dist CW (retarded) and then slowly advanced (CCW on a SB) until the points just open or the reluctor is aligned with the center of the pickup. No plug the no1 wire into the cap where the rotor is "just approaching," and wire the rest accordingly. Start it up
 
67Dart273 said:
To time it, you need to make sure no1 is on compression. To do that, pull the no1 plug, stick your finger in the hole, and bump the engine until you BEGIN to feel compression. If you have not done this you may need to "go round" once to be sure. When you feel compression, watch the marks, bump or wrench the engine NOT clear to TDC, but rather so the marks are where you want initial timing, AKA 10BTC or whatever. Stick the dist in with the rotor in the direction closest you can get to no1. Rotate the dist CW (retarded) and then slowly advanced (CCW on a SB) until the points just open or the reluctor is aligned with the center of the pickup. No plug the no1 wire into the cap where the rotor is "just approaching," and wire the rest accordingly. Start it up
Click to expand...
Make sure the ignition is OFF
 
mbaird said:
Make sure the ignition is OFF
Click to expand...
LOL I have to tell you guys everything?. Actually sometimes I static time with the ignition ON. I get the dist retarded, points closed, and "rig" a gap or neon lamp to the coil wire, then move the dist until I get a spark. With practice, you can do the same thing with breakerless. Sometimes I just listen for the "click" of the spark if it's quiet.

My neighbor just could not believe it years ago. Had a 351 in a Ford pickup he restored, was out there for an hour screwing around. I went out, stuck my finger in, pulled the dist, argued with the oil pump drive, and timed it I looked around, and said "start it up." He was flabbergasted by that statement, and it STARTED!!

I first learned all this in about 1972
 
67Dart273 said:
LOL I have to tell you guys everything?. Actually sometimes I static time with the ignition ON. I get the dist retarded, points closed, and "rig" a gap or neon lamp to the coil wire, then move the dist until I get a spark. With practice, you can do the same thing with breakerless. Sometimes I just listen for the "click" of the spark if it's quiet.

My neighbor just could not believe it years ago. Had a 351 in a Ford pickup he restored, was out there for an hour screwing around. I went out, stuck my finger in, pulled the dist, argued with the oil pump drive, and timed it I looked around, and said "start it up." He was flabbergasted by that statement, and it STARTED!!

I first learned all this in about 1972
Click to expand...
Points? What are points ? Lol
 
Ok , can finally say I GOT IT RUNNING!!, checked the engine timing marks on the lower pulley it matched up 100% as far as TDC, got #1 up to 10 deg. before TDC, installed the dist. started with #1 , made sure firing order was correct, used die electric grease on the terminal ends of the spark plug wire, made sure I has continuity for all of the spark plug wires. HELD MY BREATH, fired up almost on the 1st crank, engine never sounded so good, ran more smoothly then ever. I am using a Mopar type dist. and ECU, resister block from Rick's Mopar, Rick Ehrenberg. Still to need clean up the wiring, take for a test drive to make sure timing is good [ no ping] need to reset carb to how god the engine is running now. Also want to change oil since there has been a lot of raw gas into the oil from so many tries to get the engine to run correctly.

Want to thank all the people here for there help, ideas, and support, have been working on this since early March of this year.
Next Sunday I have the car set up to go to a local Car Show. last year I took home a Trophy , 1st one ever,!

tro1.jpg


tro2.jpg
 
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