What would you do?

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Dan the man said:
The 302s are a closed chamber head, right? Fast burn? I think that going with 1.600" exhaust valve's and leave the intake valve's alone. Wouldn't going to big on the intake valve hurt port velocity? I think that going with a good 3 angle valve job and having the valves back cut would be a good idea. The 318's pistons are like. 080" down the bore. On doing a rebuild of the 318 wouldn't it be a good choice to have the block decked so that the pistons would be at zero deck height? I think the pistons needed to do this are KB-167's. Zero deck height would help the compression ratio, flame travel and provide a tighter quench distance.
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thay say its better to leave intake valve alone and make exhaust bigger, yes closed chambers! the KB's probably be cheaper than decking block!
 
My dad bought this new shortly after I was born. 318/904 now has 3.23sg. she's a sweetheart and a pleasure to drive. I agree with others. That's a sweet ride.

IMG_0202.JPG
 
DusterDaddy said:
View attachment 1715805278 View attachment 1715805279 View attachment 1715805280 So I put this car back together with a driveline like it left the factory with.
318/904/8.25

The motor is basically stock with Summit cam similar to the mopar purple cam. Added an Edelbrock 1406 on a Performer intake and dual exhaust using 340 exhaust manifolds.

The trans is stock with a Transgo shift kit. The converter is the factory stock “ high stall “ converter used on the 74 Duster 360.

The 8-1/4 rear now has a sure grip with 3.55 gears. I got the setup from Dr Diff.

Rear tires are 245/60/15. The car is fun to drive and when you mash the gas she will spin the tires really good and chirp them when the trans hits 2nd gear.

I just bought a set of 302 heads and I want to have them reworked with 1.88/1.60 valves.

I have had a few guys tell me to ditch the 318 and put this 302 heads on a new 360 short block and not look back.

I kinda like that the car is still 318 powered and the idea of keeping it sort of true to how it was built resonates well with me.

I was thinking of calling Hughes Engines and asking for help with building a nice setup using those reworked 302 heads. I know that a different converter is probably going to be part of the upgrade as well.

What would you do?
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Without reading every reply…

I would not touch the 302 heads unless they get 360 valves and a full porting. Edelbrock heads would probably be cheaper.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Without reading every reply…

I would not touch the 302 heads unless they get 360 valves and a full porting. Edelbrock heads would probably be cheaper.
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Right now virtually all aluminum heads are unobtanium unfortunately, even Bruce Toth is out of small block heads.
 
I agree with most here. Leave the 318 as is, but I would beef up the exhaust a bit (68'- 71' stock manifolds) or a set of headers. Build another "HOT" motor if needed for special moments(a one day swap out), but if you want to get a little more serious, a 727 and 8 3/4 may be in need. Now your getting into heavy springs, cooling, tire upgrade and such. Back to "leave well enough alone", nice car as is.
 
“Slap” an entry level nitrous kit on it, keep the install simple, clean, as in: “leave no trace” Easily reversible. That’s a sweet car:thumbsup:
 
D/D I love the way your car looks under the hood too. The orange air cleaner assembly looks really good. Nice factory look.
 
Put a check mark in your life's accomplishments and call it done.
Drive it, and enjoy. Then come down to my place and get the AC parts, I have kept them all these years in a milk crate for you.
 
DusterDaddy said:
The only thing I get when the hood is open is “ man that thing is clean “
Even though a hand full of people who walk up to the car at cruise nights know that Chrysler never built a 4 barrel 318 Duster, they all dig the “stock like” appearance of what the car has going on under the hood. View attachment 1715805326
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My son's first vehicle was a 1983 W150. According to the build sheet, it was a 318-4V from the factory. With a set of better heads, a small cam, and a set of headers, the tuner boys were in awe. Never say never with Mother Mopar.
 
12many said:
“Slap” an entry level nitrous kit on it, keep the install simple, clean, as in: “leave no trace” Easily reversible. That’s a sweet car:thumbsup:
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We used to have a 100 HP hit of Nitrous called a "Sneaky Pete". Easily hidden, and smacked any 350 Chebbie. Ahh, to be young again....
 
great looking car drive it and enjoy once you go for more power it never ends and the car is not going to be something you will drive every day . your car is perfect as isi did the upgrade **** went from a car i could drive 350 miles on a tank and enjoy to a 540hp screamer that got 100 miles to a tank that i rarely drive now . going back to the 340 the way it came rather drive it a lot then blast it once in a while
 
sireland67 said:
Put a check mark in your life's accomplishments and call it done.
Drive it, and enjoy. Then come down to my place and get the AC parts, I have kept them all these years in a milk crate for you.
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I have got to get those parts
 
I put an MSD box in it today. The HEI modules kept shutting down. I think they didn’t like the available current on the stock harness “run” circuit. I’m already getting heat from the geniuses on Facetube that the car can’t have two ignition systems. Even though this car hasn’t run on the Chrysler box since the restomod. Looks ok looking in from the front and a little gaudy up close. Maybe I should pull out the ballast resistor and the Chrysler ignition box…
2D6CA898-83F8-4583-820B-DE91CD3FFC2E.jpeg
B71418FB-7CE5-4DE8-A625-1527A8C67205.jpeg
 
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Swinger 340 said:
I agree with most here. Leave the 318 as is, but I would beef up the exhaust a bit (68'- 71' stock manifolds) or a set of headers. Build another "HOT" motor if needed for special moments(a one day swap out), but if you want to get a little more serious, a 727 and 8 3/4 may be in need. Now your getting into heavy springs, cooling, tire upgrade and such. Back to "leave well enough alone", nice car as is.
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The exhaust manifolds are 71 340 manifolds with 2-1/2 dual pipes and thrush welded mufflers. vroom vroom
 
DusterDaddy said:
I put an MSD box in it today. The HEI modules kept shutting down. I think they didn’t like the available current on the stock harness “run” circuit. I’m already getting heat from the geniuses on Facetube that the car can’t have two ignition systems. Even though this car hasn’t run on the Chrysler box since the restomod. Looks ok looking in from the front and a little gaudy up close. Maybe I should pull out the ballast resistor and the Chrysler ignition box…View attachment 1715810002View attachment 1715810006
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Interestingly, after the MSD install, the car idled in park at 1150 rpm.
She idled at 850 in park with the Pertronix HEI module.
I turned it down to 850 again and will need to check timing and carb adjustments with the new ignition
08EC07ED-8B45-4FF6-8F76-3C90D21678CF.jpeg
7A712E3E-2BD8-49C6-AE29-9B80906CDB0F.jpeg

The MSD box is cleaner than what I had
 
Bewy said:
Did you check to see if you were getting 12v to the HEI?
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Yes, but I didn’t have a meter last time it quit while coming to a stop during a run. Car wouldn’t start but after an hour it fired right up and I drove it home. Module was warmer than I think it should have been. I am also going to order a Mopar performance voltage regulator just in case there was an issue with it.
In any event the MSD box is staying and I removed the ballast resistor and the Chrysler orange box. They were in there for appearances only. I’m already accepting of the presence of the MSD box and the absence of the prop original electronic ignition….
6CE48E2E-AA66-422D-B69A-04BA6B1C8F2C.jpeg
 
DusterDaddy said:
The exhaust manifolds are 71 340 manifolds with 2-1/2 dual pipes and thrush welded mufflers. vroom vroom
Click to expand...
Those exhaust manifolds are not from a 68'-71' 340. Possible a 72'. Get a set or headers and you will see a difference. I have been there. Had a set of 318 exhaust headers on a 69' 340 I installed in my 72' Van and was not impressed. Following week I installed the correct exhaust w/2.5 pipe and it seem like I just installed a new motor.
 
DusterDaddy said:
View attachment 1715805278 View attachment 1715805279 View attachment 1715805280 So I put this car back together with a driveline like it left the factory with.
318/904/8.25

The motor is basically stock with Summit cam similar to the mopar purple cam. Added an Edelbrock 1406 on a Performer intake and dual exhaust using 340 exhaust manifolds.

The trans is stock with a Transgo shift kit. The converter is the factory stock “ high stall “ converter used on the 74 Duster 360.

The 8-1/4 rear now has a sure grip with 3.55 gears. I got the setup from Dr Diff.

Rear tires are 245/60/15. The car is fun to drive and when you mash the gas she will spin the tires really good and chirp them when the trans hits 2nd gear.

I just bought a set of 302 heads and I want to have them reworked with 1.88/1.60 valves.

I have had a few guys tell me to ditch the 318 and put this 302 heads on a new 360 short block and not look back.

I kinda like that the car is still 318 powered and the idea of keeping it sort of true to how it was built resonates well with me.

I was thinking of calling Hughes Engines and asking for help with building a nice setup using those reworked 302 heads. I know that a different converter is probably going to be part of the upgrade as well.

What would you do?
Click to expand...


Leave the engine that's in the car alone... It runs good, keep it... (If it ain't broke, don't fix it).... :steering:

Take the money that you would have used on another engine and get a hooker... You'll be happier in the end... :D
 
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