Wheel hub questions for 10 inch drums

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Grabmyhammer

Grabmyhammer

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Coaldale AB
While replacing the front end I'm now on the the wheel ends. Front brakes went good but now I'm on the wheel hubs. Problem is the old studs where swaged and because of the it stretched out the holes on the hub. Only found that out after trying to install the new studs and they sit loose in the holes. Has anyone every tried a bigger nurl or is there any other way to save the old wheel hub? The vehicle is a 1972 plymouth duster with 10 inch drum brakes.
 
No way to "save" the hub. If you can find someone with some SENSE at a parts store, they can look up studs by specs and find you one that's slightly over sized.........but good luck with THAT.
 
i just went thru this with another project and found the dorman website to be more helpful than the know-nothing counter jockeys around here.

here's a link

Dorman Products - Search Results

Dorman gives auto repair professionals and vehicle owners greater freedom to fix cars and trucks by focusing on solutions first.
www.dormanproducts.com www.dormanproducts.com
 
I did try to find new hubs for the car but it doesn't seem like anyone makes them. Frustrating when I found out after how common of a mistake this is. You would think someone would be reproducing these hubs. Im Trying to make what I have work since there isn't much options. But thats why I am here, see if there is other options or maybe something I missed
 
They are in the USED world Only --- as New Hub & Drum Assemblies haven't been manufactured in 50 years......
These Hubs should be all over the place, from people who have done Disc Brake conversions......

Put out a wanted ad in the wanted section , and you should get an answer / offer within 48 hours.....
 
Grabmyhammer said:
I did try to find new hubs for the car but it doesn't seem like anyone makes them. Frustrating when I found out after how common of a mistake this is. You would think someone would be reproducing these hubs. Im Trying to make what I have work since there isn't much options. But thats why I am here, see if there is other options or maybe something I missed
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Oh no. These ain't Chevys. Nobody and I mean NOBODY makes any hubs that I know of. I agree. It's beyond maddening, but this is why I have much respect for Mopars. When you see one.....even a driver....somebody went to some trouble. I'll be honest. I wouldn't be afraid of buffing the hub on either side of the studs and buffing the studs and popping a mig weld on either side. A small one though, in case you need to replace them later on.
 
Stock wheel bolted to the used hub, off the car with new studs from carquest > weld them in on the back side when everything is bolted up on center.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
When I needed longer studs I went oversize not that they were loose just that no-one had longer studs with my knurl. I think I bought .490 knurl. Just a tad bigger but they pressed in no prob.
 
Send your hubs and drums to be fitted with new studs at Moser Engineering.
They will redrill your hubs, install new 1/2 studs and drill your drums to fit the new studs.
If your Duster is SBP, they can keep that or redrill them to BBP.
Specify if you want long studs for racing or regular lenght for stock. Recommend long studs for the race look, but you will have to use open face lug nuts.
Suggest you call/email them for pricing and heads up to let them know you are sending.
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Just a heads up: If you have the wrong drums on your Duster, they may be resting on the studs instead of the axle center hole.
Your axle center hole must fit your drum snugly or you have the wrong drums.

Axle & Axle Packages | Store | Moser Engineering - Moser Engineering
 
Grabmyhammer said:
While replacing the front end I'm now on the the wheel ends. Front brakes went good but now I'm on the wheel hubs. Problem is the old studs where swaged and because of the it stretched out the holes on the hub. Only found that out after trying to install the new studs and they sit loose in the holes. Has anyone every tried a bigger nurl or is there any other way to save the old wheel hub? The vehicle is a 1972 plymouth duster with 10 inch drum brakes.
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You can use a stud with a larger dia knurl. Just drill out the hole in the hub to the proper size for the knurl you use. You most drill the hub in a drill press. It is important to get the hole square to the drum mounting surface. You will have to search for the correct stud. You will want to keep the 7/16 thread size (unless you want to drill the holes in the drum larger and use different wheels), and have the required knurl size. I have done this and also redrilled for the 4 1/2 inch bolt pattern, on the front and rear. I need the longer studs for Drag racing, and "Mag" wheels. It takes some searching to find the correct stud.
 
Grabmyhammer said:
I did try to find new hubs for the car but it doesn't seem like anyone makes them. Frustrating when I found out after how common of a mistake this is. You would think someone would be reproducing these hubs. Im Trying to make what I have work since there isn't much options. But thats why I am here, see if there is other options or maybe something I missed
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Shoot me a PM if you need another set of 10 inch hubs in Canada.
 
The lesson here is don't mess with hubs or studs unless you really have too. Why are you replacing yours?
 
I'd like to thank you all for help. I'm going to weight my options here and figure out my best plan of action. And to answer your question Murray. I had new tires recently put on the car and 2 of the snapped. The studs being 30+ years old or original is a bit of a scarey thing to me when you think about how many sets of tires or different wheels have been swapped from the car in its life
 
Grabmyhammer said:
I'd like to thank you all for help. I'm going to weight my options here and figure out my best plan of action. And to answer your question Murray. I had new tires recently put on the car and 2 of the snapped. The studs being 30+ years old or original is a bit of a scarey thing to me when you think about how many sets of tires or different wheels have been swapped from the car in its life
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I'm guessing that wasn't the stud's fault. IIRC the wheel nuts only get torqued to 55lbs with the 7/16 studs. Make sure that the shop knows that.
 
The shop in question is a good friend of mine. He did torque them correctly but he mentioned that the studs where damaged previously from over torque. And fixing a couple things what where previously done to the car it is entirely believable. But now I know about these studs and how to remove them properly if the problem should arise again.
 
Let me hazzard a guess. The bad studs were on the driver side. Those are left hand thread from the factory. Many of those have been snapped off by trying to turn them counter clockwise trying to remove the nuts. That just tightens them more. Need to turn them clockwise to remove them. Just the opposite direction of the passenger side.
 
They where passenger side. I did know about that and warned them about the possibility. Funny enough they have been changed in its past so that is convenient
 
Well I got it figured out. Thanks to @CFD244 for the hubs I was able to put new bearings, races and studs onto the new hubs without a hiccup. Also installed new brakes and hardware for the car. First picture is the carnage on the old hub that I found, you can see the allowed out area where the race would sit. The second is the holesaw I used to cut the old swaged bit of the studs out. And the 3rd is the end result before hammering them out!

20240408_154117.jpg


20240417_081913.jpg


20240417_082419.jpg
 
Another thing to know is that if you don't torque the loose replacement wheel studs in the wobbly hole, before the spot welds, -- they will crack over time/vibration/heat, - and let the stud spin at the worst time.
Ask me how many times I know, - towing was part of my business.
 
A machine shop could redrill all 5 holes offset from the original holes and that way you could save your hubs and maintain the 5 on 4-inch pattern and also use the factory style studs. Just another option for unobtainable hubs.
 
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