Wheels for 5/8" studs

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mopowers

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For those of you running 5/8" wheel studs, what wheels are you running? I'm just doing a little brainstorming on which wheels to run on my 66 Dart.
 
Most any aftermarket wheel will work fine except 5 x 4 Small pattern
as lug holes are smaller on them.
They are fastened on the face of the wheel instead of lug nuts on
all our race cars.
I run them on most all of our drag cars since losing an axle and chopping
down the tree literally a few years back. They are WAY stronger and well worth
the extra expense on the drive axle.
 
Most any aftermarket wheel will work fine except 5 x 4 Small pattern
as lug holes are smaller on them.
They are fastened on the face of the wheel instead of lug nuts on
all our race cars.
I run them on most all of our drag cars since losing an axle and chopping
down the tree literally a few years back. They are WAY stronger and well worth
the extra expense on the drive axle.
Thank you! What wheels to you run? Do you have any photos?

I've got Weld Draglites now which are fine, but I'm curious what other wheels will work. I've been looking into a one piece design like these forged or cast aluminum wheels. The Summit one is designed for a conical seat, so I'm assuming 5/8" studs won't work unless theres enough meat after drilling them out. Whereas the Billet Specialties wheel is designed for a shank, so I'm thinking a 5/8" stud may work I just wonder if there's enough room for a spacer/washer for use with a 5/8" stud. I guess I'll have to start making some calls.

Billet Specialties BRS035106545 Billet Specialties Street Lite Black Wheels | Summit Racing

Summit Racing SUM-561B-5165N25 Summit Racing Equipment® Drag-Thrust Wheels | Summit Racing
 
Google: John Irving Drag Racer
and my son: Jon Irving Drag Racer

To see all our different wheels on our
dozen race cars.

I would not run wheels with conical lug nuts.
There might be enough area left to secure the nut
and washer but it would concern me.
 
Most any aftermarket wheel will work fine except 5 x 4 Small pattern
as lug holes are smaller on them.
They are fastened on the face of the wheel instead of lug nuts on
all our race cars.
I run them on most all of our drag cars since losing an axle and chopping
down the tree literally a few years back. They are WAY stronger and well worth
the extra expense on the drive axle.
You took the tree out? You're famous. I caint believe I'm postin on the same forum with you. lol
 
My grimy convo pros….

5416A0AF-A6C5-4C48-8517-30CB416EE27D.jpeg
 
You took the tree out? You're famous. I caint believe I'm postin on the same forum with you. lol
Thanks Buddy!
Only cost me 3 Broken ribs and some Bruises.

Worth it for the cover Of Hot Rod and entire back page
AND cover of Car Craft and center two pages = I guess so?

I still recommend the 5/8 studs instead!
 
Thanks Buddy!
Only cost me 3 Broken ribs and some Bruises.

Worth it for the cover Of Hot Rod and entire back page
AND cover of Car Craft and center two pages = I guess so?

I still recommend the 5/8 studs instead!
Heck yeah! I'd do it again! LOL
 
I run a 15" x 15" Weld Magnum 2.0 with a 5 on 5" bolt pattern. 14.5W x 32 tires. Not near the garage at the moment for a photo.

Large (wider) bolt patterns allow for a lot more torque capacity.

Tom
 
What about using both bolt patterns if you have 2 patterns on your axles ?
 
I think any standard wheel that doesn't use Acorn nuts should work with a 5/8 drive stud. I run Billet Specialties Street Lites for my street tires and HoleShot Holestars for my drag radials. Niether required modification when I made the move to larger studs.

JMO but whenever you do an axle upgrade, and unless you never plan on going faster make the move to the big studs. I did it when I moved to a Dana 60. I would say this is especially true when running a drag radial, or radial slick as the sidewalls are less forgiving and more abuse it put on the studs.

If you run a steel wheel or acorn seat then things are more difficult but there is people that do it.

IMG_1111.JPG
 
I think any standard wheel that doesn't use Acorn nuts should work with a 5/8 drive stud. I run Billet Specialties Street Lites for my street tires and HoleShot Holestars for my drag radials. Niether required modification when I made the move to larger studs.

JMO but whenever you do an axle upgrade, and unless you never plan on going faster make the move to the big studs. I did it when I moved to a Dana 60. I would say this is especially true when running a drag radial, or radial slick as the sidewalls are less forgiving and more abuse it put on the studs.

If you run a steel wheel or acorn seat then things are more difficult but there is people that do it.

View attachment 1716002643

Thanks for the photo. That's an awesome looking Barracuda!
 
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