When does money outweigh sentimental value? 1968 notchback build thread

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mosleyme said:
Make sure the hub clears the wheel; I'm going to have to radius the nose of the hub a little. For the garage I am using a 7mm spacer to allow the wheel to clear so I can roll the car.
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I forgot to mention that I had the wheel machined about 3/16" in hub depth.
 
Some updates. Here is a picture of the rear window channel. You can see where my paint and body guys decided to weld up all my trim holes, so that was nice of them.

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I did get the trim holes drilled and trim clips installed. The new trim clips I bought were wrong for the front. The ones I took off are the thin ones and the new ones are the fat ones. First pic is the front and back of the small clips, I had to clean and coat them. Here you can see clips installed and also see the air dam mock up.

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New beer fridge! And all my glass is cleaned, tinted and wrspped up on top of my messy box. Just need to start polishing SS. But this post is mainly about the new beer fridge, which is awesome!

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khuebner250 said:
New beer fridge! And all my glass is cleaned, tinted and wrspped up on top of my messy box. Just need to start polishing SS. But this post is mainly about the new beer fridge, which is awesome!

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Ya gotta have a beer fridge. When we got a new one for the house, i took the old one out to the shop. Comes in handy to have too when you need to stock extra goodies for an upcoming party.
 
Also disassembled the engine that I rebuilt in HS. Looked good inside (low miles) but its going to a 408, so I dropped it off at ridge reamer in Arvada. Waiting to hear from Pete. Having it align honed with studs, bores rehoned, square decked, cam bearings, plugs, etc. I also did the oil mods from guitar Jones. And some side cooling lines into block

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Also converted my ammeter to volts. Did a digital internal voltage regulator, painted all needles to flouresent orange, LEDs throughout and added a performance gauge(so I know just how many performances I have). I'll upload more pics later. Here is one of the volt conversion.

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Your gonna have a problem here you either have to grind away part of the gage bucket shown in red to get the volt gage lower pendulum to swing so the needle will move, or cut that part off the gage so it clears. I ground my gage bucket instead. Not sure how much removing the pendulum interferes with the gages calibration.

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moparmat2000 said:
Your gonna have a problem here you either have to grind away part of the gage bucket shown in red to get the volt gage lower pendulum to swing so the needle will move, or cut that part off the gage do it clears. I ground my gage bucket instead. Not sure how much removing the pendulum interferes with the gages calibration.
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I did, I just removed it from the side. It sweeps.
 
You can also hook the gage up to a fully charged battery on your workbench and adjust the potentiometer on the gage to read where you want the needle to read. I chose slightly above half at 13.5 volts with gage positioned as it will sit in the dash because of gravity pulling on the needle. I actually cut my needle off leaving a small stub, and super glued on the original needle from the ammeter so it all matches, then made the pot adjustment.

Also if you use a plastic or rubber insulator for your hot lead, run that straight to the 12v feed at the fuel gage, and run the volt gage ground wire washered up right to the gage housing. That is a ground anyways. In my pic, i eventually eliminated the black ground wire as i grounded the gage to the gage housing. You can see the red wire hooking up at the 12v in at the fuel gage.

The rest of the gages are 6 volt. Using a vibrating points reg in the fuel gage. I removed mine, and built a soild state 5.5v regulator thats externally mounted

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I used led 5630 dimmable flexible peel and stick light strip for my gage backlighting. Its inexpensive and eliminates bright and dark spots. I will post pix if your interested. It works very well. I can sell you a 4 foot strip if interested. I have it in your fav colour. Green.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I used led 5630 dimmable flexible peel and stick light strip for my gage backlighting. Its inexpensive and eliminates bright and dark spots. I will post pix if your interested. It works very well. I can sell you a 4 foot strip if interested. I have it in your fav colour. Green.
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I have essentially the same set up as you. Solid state ivr, voltmeter, wiring as you stated but I'm running superbrightleds. I do need to calibrate the voltmeter still. I'll post more pics later.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Ya gotta have a beer fridge. When we got a new one for the house, i took the old one out to the shop. Comes in handy to have too when you need to stock extra goodies for an upcoming party.
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I had a good friend finish his basement and this was his basement fridge. He was just going to get rid of it.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I used led 5630 dimmable flexible peel and stick light strip for my gage backlighting. Its inexpensive and eliminates bright and dark spots. I will post pix if your interested. It works very well. I can sell you a 4 foot strip if interested. I have it in your fav colour. Green.
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I'm interested in the lighting you are talking about if you could post a photo
 
Leds are polarity sensitive. Best thing to do is bench test your backlighting with a 9v batt and 2 alligator end test leads. Hook ground to the gage housing and hot to pin on circuit board that feeds the lighting. If it doesnt light, just turn bulb 180° and drop back in the socket, or ditto with leads on the light strip if soldered to a bulb socket.
 
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