Where can I buy a reliable remanufactured 318 for 1971 Duster?

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4eighteener said:
We lost a good machinist and mopar specific machine shop whe Dan Dvorak passed away a few years ago. He was located mid state in Waldo, so it was inconvenient for all, but worth the trip. Luckily I had kids going to college in Gainesville, so it was always a good excuse to see them too.
I am getting ready to head up north (vermont) for the summer, but if you have not done anything by the fall, I will be glad to help.
Make sure your sending unit has the grounding strap that jumps over the rubber hoses to the steel fuel lines
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Yes we did. He was a legend for sure. But he was slipping badly mentally. I don't know if it was dementia or what, but I personally know of two people that he totally ripped off with parts and labor, whether it was intentional or not. A shame really, because when he was on his game, he was the best of the best.
 
I’ve pulled the heads on this engine a couple of times - but the last time was about 30 years ago. Am I correct that I can get the intake manifold off without messing with the heads? For the record… I cleaned the engine a few months back and then took pictures looking for the source. I don’t recall if I use my endocam or not - but I have pictures showing no leaks around the distributor and no leaks around the oil sensor. The source is close and your theory about the intake manifold would very possibly be the answer. I’ll clean again and look harder for the source. It runs down the passenger side exhaust manifold and trickles along the exhaust pipe all the way back to the muffler. UGH!
 
Ken71Twister said:
I’ve pulled the heads on this engine a couple of times - but the last time was about 30 years ago. Am I correct that I can get the intake manifold off without messing with the heads? For the record… I cleaned the engine a few months back and then took pictures looking for the source. I don’t recall if I use my endocam or not - but I have pictures showing no leaks around the distributor and no leaks around the oil sensor. The source is close and your theory about the intake manifold would very possibly be the answer. I’ll clean again and look harder for the source. It runs down the passenger side exhaust manifold and trickles along the exhaust pipe all the way back to the muffler. UGH!
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Ken, why don't you build it yourself? If you can pull heads, you can do it man!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yes we did. He was a legend for sure. But he was slipping badly mentally. I don't know if it was dementia or what, but I personally know of two people that he totally ripped off with parts and labor, whether it was intentional or not. A shame really, because when he was on his game, he was the best of the best.
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Could be, having worked in memory care facilities, I know people have both their good and bad days and sometimesa mental declines are not readily apparent.
I had seen Dan a few months before he passed, and he seemed sharp and honest that day. He talked me out of doing some machine work on a block that I had money and block in hand, and had just driven 4 hours to get to his shop.
He could have easily have taken the money and I would have been glad to have given it, if not for his sage advice and honesty that day.
 
Ken71Twister said:
I assure you that the VIN numbers will match. I had the engine rebuilt in 1988 by a shop near Panama City. It still runs great but it is dripping oil from an elusive source on the back side of the engine (and not the oil pressure sensor). Oil runs down the right side exhaust manifold. I figure that I may as well have a rebuild after 36 years while the engine is out for gaskets. I probably have 60K or 70K miles on the rebuilt engine.
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I think you have it narrowed down, right side, not the oil sending unit, above the exhaust manifold dripping down. Sounds like;
Valve cover gasket
Oil fill gasket
Breather grommet
Replace all and clean area with brake cleaner.
If the leak returns, it could be a positive pressure inside the engine from worn rings/valves forcing it past the gaskets/seals.
Go back to your original game plan to replace/ rebuild the engine
 
Ken71Twister said:
I’ve pulled the heads on this engine a couple of times - but the last time was about 30 years ago. Am I correct that I can get the intake manifold off without messing with the heads? For the record… I cleaned the engine a few months back and then took pictures looking for the source. I don’t recall if I use my endocam or not - but I have pictures showing no leaks around the distributor and no leaks around the oil sensor. The source is close and your theory about the intake manifold would very possibly be the answer. I’ll clean again and look harder for the source. It runs down the passenger side exhaust manifold and trickles along the exhaust pipe all the way back to the muffler. UGH!
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Yep, intake comes off without affecting the heads. You might have to remove the valve covers, and it would most definitely be easier to put the intake back on with the valve covers off. The corners, both front and back need a little extra Ultra Black sealer.
 
As far as I know, CME Carolina Machine Engines has a good reputation. Their site is not the most modern and complete, but they do list pricing of an OEM long block 318. After clicking the below link-select a year in the "Year Model" drop-down bar. I chose 1972. Scroll down past the AMC applications and a 318 assembled long block is listed for $1,996.
OEM Engines
 
Great alternative! :thumbsup:
Michael Harrington said:
As far as I know, CME Carolina Machine Engines has a good reputation. Their site is not the most modern and complete, but they do list pricing of an OEM long block 318. After clicking the below link-select a year in the "Year Model" drop-down bar. I chose 1972. Scroll down past the AMC applications and a 318 assembled long block is listed for $1,996.
OEM Engines
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I wouldn't buy a motor from CME if they were the last place on earth. I called them first when I needed a 4.7 for my Dakota, because they are close enough to go pick it up. Every single person I spoke with that day on the phone had the shittiest attitude that could be. The sales guy wasn't the least bit interested in selling me a 4.7. CME can go F a rolling donut! However, I am glad someone had a good experience with them.
 
I can tell you another place NOT to use. Clearwater Cylinder Head and Machine/Odessa Cylinder Head and Machine. Two different names, but one in the same outfit. STAY AWAY!
 
The mid late 1970s to the early 80s was the Malaise era. No/low effort on the manufacturers part resulting in boring undesirable American cars. Looks like current customer service and final product quality has made current times a type of Malaise era. Buying an engine assembly thru a local Autozone/Napa/OReillys I would imagine gives you a good convenient guarantee if your engine is faulty. Another option that costs more and adds inconvenience would be to crate up your 318 and send it via truck to the closest machine shop you trust. Have them completely rebuild your engine and then freight it back to you.
 
Bad word and good travels faster in this day and age. You would think there would be more accountability, sometimes yes sometimes no. Even if there was a problem you encountered with a business, if it isn't local and able to hassle them frequently, yer probably screwed.
Good luck.
 
I’ve sprayed the engine area where the leak seems to be coming from (can’t see vs against firewall) and I will get my endoscope out to see if I can view the suspected area before I re-start the engine.
 
There is no way I would pay anywhere close to that much money for a remain or long block. Seriously 318s are dime a dozen anywhere you look get one off market place or your buddies cousin for 50 bucks and go thru it clean it up even if it needs machine work your still under a grand and you will have a brand new motor. I started with a compete disaster 360. It was bad there was guys on here telling me to find another core! I have 350 in machine work 400 in pistons probably 400 in the valve train (cam lifters springs) 250 in the crank. And that was all performance type parts your not gonna get that in a remain or long block. You could stick with stock replacement stuff and get by ALOT cheaper! All said and done I have around 2 grand in my 360 and like I said it was performance inspired. You can build a budget 318 for less than 500 if you source the right core and do some smart shopping.
 
Oh I forgot to mention as far as finding a reasonable source to build it. Build it yourself! It's not that hard. I'm a dumb *** and I figured it out lol
 
Ken71Twister said:
I’ve sprayed the engine area where the leak seems to be coming from (can’t see vs against firewall) and I will get my endoscope out to see if I can view the suspected area before I re-start the engine.
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If you haven't started the engine all the oil is in the pan, there really ain't any in the area to leak until you run it.
 
To find a leak, just seal the valve covers and inject air thru the dipstick tube. Regulate the pressure to about 3psi, not more that 4! Then hit her with soapy water around the suspected areas. Easy Peasy........ if you have a regulator.
 
Dartfreak75 said:
There is no way I would pay anywhere close to that much money for a remain or long block. Seriously 318s are dime a dozen anywhere you look get one off market place or your buddies cousin for 50 bucks and go thru it clean it up even if it needs machine work your still under a grand and you will have a brand new motor. I started with a compete disaster 360. It was bad there was guys on here telling me to find another core! I have 350 in machine work 400 in pistons probably 400 in the valve train (cam lifters springs) 250 in the crank. And that was all performance type parts your not gonna get that in a remain or long block. You could stick with stock replacement stuff and get by ALOT cheaper! All said and done I have around 2 grand in my 360 and like I said it was performance inspired. You can build a budget 318 for less than 500 if you source the right core and do some smart shopping.
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it's like some people don't even do the assigned reading before showing up to class...

he clearly doesn't want to do the work. he also doesn't have the facilities to pull the motor as he stated in the first post.

to your point of scooping up a used motor? sure, that's always a viable route but that comes with a lot of risk. you take all that time: tracking one down, hammering out a deal, going to get it, cleaning it up, doing whatever menial replace/repair work, installing it and then... something's booty. i dunno, it's got bad valve guides or rod knock or a soft hole, whatever, so now you're *** out on all that time, money and effort.

when you could've put that into a known entity.

i don't know what defines a "complete disaster" or what machine shop rates are where you are, but that sounds dubious to me on both fronts.

anyway, the guy is just looking for the easiest way forward for an economical refresh that is drama free and doesn't lay up his car because the engine is in machine shop jail for months and months.
 
I don't understand why this oil leak on top of the motor or so is so hard to find. Use a mirror on a stick and a flashlight.

Another idea would be to put UV dye in the engine oil and check with the black light, but that may be a bit too extreme.
 
Yea your right. I posted a little quick. But I can promise you I'm not lying about the machine work costs that I paid. Idk how much they charge out west but I had the block and heads cleaned, the heads milled and the block bored. I paid 350 bucks. I did all the disassembly and reassembly myself including cam bearings.
junkyardhero said:
it's like some people don't even do the assigned reading before showing up to class...

he clearly doesn't want to do the work. he also doesn't have the facilities to pull the motor as he stated in the first post.

to your point of scooping up a used motor? sure, that's always a viable route but that comes with a lot of risk. you take all that time: tracking one down, hammering out a deal, going to get it, cleaning it up, doing whatever menial replace/repair work, installing it and then... something's booty. i dunno, it's got bad valve guides or rod knock or a soft hole, whatever, so now you're *** out on all that time, money and effort.

when you could've put that into a known entity.

i don't know what defines a "complete disaster" or what machine shop rates are where you are, but that sounds dubious to me on both fronts.

anyway, the guy is just looking for the easiest way forward for an economical refresh that is drama free and doesn't lay up his car because the engine is in machine shop jail for months and months.
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at tree-fiddy you can barely get shops out here to give you the time of day, that's hella cheap.

all kidding aside, i think you *might* be able to get a block tanked, mag'd, spec'd and maybe a hone on the cyls for that kinda dough. maybe. heads would easily be that or more for a skim, mag and checking the guides & heights.
 
junkyardhero said:
at tree-fiddy you can barely get shops out here to give you the time of day, that's hella cheap.

all kidding aside, i think you *might* be able to get a block tanked, mag'd, spec'd and maybe a hone on the cyls for that kinda dough. maybe. heads would easily be that or more for a skim, mag and checking the guides & heights.
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It's been four years ago so prices probably have went up. I'm getting ready to start on another 360 I'll let you know how much it's went up lol
 
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