Where can I buy a reliable remanufactured 318 for 1971 Duster?

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Ken71Twister

Ken71Twister

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Messages
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Location
Valparaiso, FL
I see a lot of talk about Blueprint engines - but they don’t offer a 318 and I don’t want the complexity of changing anything. Clearances are really tight in the engine compartment and I just want a simple replacement for what I have. I’d prefer to have my engine rebuilt - but I live in FL panhandle and I’m not finding any/many places available to pull and rebuild my engine within a reasonable/predictable timeframe. So ..I’m considering the hard decision to part with my original 318 and replace it with an engine from a reputable source. They are not hard to find online - but I don’t want to get something that I cannot trust.

I’m not after any performance changes - just something like my original engine. I don’t have the facilities to pull an engine myself but I’ve located a local guy who will order and install a crate engine.

Suggestions please for reputable remanufactured long block engine sources.
 
Look into Jasper rebuilds, most NAPA stores sell them.
 
Several local repair shops buy Jasper engines.I did talk to one and he said he has a good track record with Jasper.
I see their trucks almost daily.
 
AutoZone has your rebuilt long block.

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There's really no reason not to go with a 360. You just need mounts and how the balance is set up. Magnums are a slightly lighter external balance vs a LA 360. 318 and 340 are internal of course.

Anyone know anything about these people?

 
What "complexy" would there be in changing from one small block to another? If you think simple things like one motor mount and different flex plate or flywheel are complexities, maybe another hobby is in order.
 
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Hey Ken,
I suspect part of this issue is "down time", and perhaps building a similar engine for a like for like swap helps to eliminate that.
There is a machine shop not too far away from you in Lake City called Adenaline performance who speaks mopar, and can build you a long block of which ever engine you decide upon. Not sure that route will be cheaper than a crate engine from Jasper, but worth a call.
I always tell people that ask, that Blueprint is a good deal per horsepower, but I understand that you are after a stock rebuild.
If you have any interest in engines and especially mopar, please don't give up on the hobby. I hope things work out with this build!
 
i've had good luck with jasper and ATK and their warranties are pretty decent. the only issue is that most all of the long blocks they sell are smogger, so you'll need to seal up the air ports in the heads.

if i was in your position, i'd go about it one of two ways. order up a short block and then have the heads done locally-- if they are still in decent shape. and then upgrade the timing chain and slip in a better cam and lifters.

if the heads need more than a bit of freshening up, then i'd order up a long block and call it done.

it's easy to get sucked into the upgrade vortex at this stage of the game. but if you keep it basic you should be able to avoid a bunch of down time.
 
Demonic said:
There's really no reason not to go with a 360. You just need mounts and how the balance is set up. Magnums are a slightly lighter external balance vs a LA 360. 318 and 340 are internal of course.

Anyone know anything about these people?

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Red x time. He didn't say anything about a 360.
Id find somebody to pull your original and have it gone thru... Unless it has a windowed block or something
 
Jasper has warranties they stand behind.
5.3 in my Chev truck from ATK, 70k miles, smooth sailing
 
@RAT ROD AL was from Fla, @66fyssh just moved there, maybe they know someone?
I hear ya not wanting to get caught up in the "upgrades". Flex plate, motor mount, pulleys n brackets. If 318 was good enuf for you, stick with it.
Good luck.
 
4eighteener said:
Hey Ken,
I suspect part of this issue is "down time", and perhaps building a similar engine for a like for like swap helps to eliminate that.
There is a machine shop not too far away from you in Lake City called Adenaline performance who speaks mopar, and can build you a long block of which ever engine you decide upon. Not sure that route will be cheaper than a crate engine from Jasper, but worth a call.
I always tell people that ask, that Blueprint is a good deal per horsepower, but I understand that you are after a stock rebuild.
If you have any interest in engines and especially mopar, please don't give up on the hobby. I hope things work out with this build!
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No worry on me giving up the hobby. I’m pretty much married to this car. I bought it when I was 19, dated my wife in that car, and she fully supports us keeping the car up. I was close to having someone not too far from here do a restoration - but the cost came in about $15K over my threshold of pain. I’ll go back to plan A and have things done piecemeal. I spent some time today experimenting with a new sending unit and fuel gauge and I’m now pulling the instrument cluster out to replace the gauge. I’ll touch base with the guys in Lake City. That’s only 4 hours away.
 
Another thumbs-up for Jasper, as I have about 12 years on one of their long blocks in my ‘92 F150.

However, if you can manage the downtime, I wholeheartedly agree about finding someone local to rebuild your original engine.
 
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And it was new…. Paid just over $2700. Just a bit more than the $2100 I just spent to order seat covers that will be identical to the original seat covers.
 
Perhaps another thing to consider if you buy a crate/replacement motor:

Do you want to keep your original, numbers matching engine? If so, add the cost of the core to your purchase price, as you won’t be getting that back.

Given all of the people here who would dang near give their First Born to find their original engine, I figured I should throw this out here for your consideration.
 
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Demonic said:
There's really no reason not to go with a 360. You just need mounts and how the balance is set up. Magnums are a slightly lighter external balance vs a LA 360. 318 and 340 are internal of course.

Anyone know anything about these people?

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I called them when I was looking to buy a remanufactured 4.7 for my 2004 Dakota. The guy I talked to acted like he didn't want to answer any of my questions about their processes or whether they did any upgrades to alleviate any of the known problems of those engines. He didn't seem to care whether they got my business or not, so.....they didn't! I bought a nice 4.7 from Powertrain Engines, and the owner answered all of my questions and was interested in helping me. I have been very happy with the motor I got from them and put in the Dakota. I don't know that they would have anything for Ken, the OP here, unless he bought a 318 for a late 80's D100 and swapped it in. @Ken71Twister , check the VIN pad on your block and see if it is the numbers matching motor for your car. If it is, get that motor rebuilt by that machine shop suggested above.
 
Thanks Steve @4spdragtop

@Ken71Twister I just moved to Fort Walton 2 months ago and just moved to Navarre this weekend.

I work on Hurlburt and met a Mopar guy there. I'll ask him if he knows of any good shops around to rebuild your engine.
 
66fyssh said:
Thanks Steve @4spdragtop

@Ken71Twister I just moved to Fort Walton 2 months ago and just moved to Navarre this weekend.

I work on Hurlburt and met a Mopar guy there. I'll ask him if he knows of any good shops around to rebuild your engine.
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Thanks … if you find a good lead that would be great. I’ve followed other leads and find the local people so backed up they can’t help anytime soon. The person in FWB with the best reputation won’t answer his phone and his office door is locked. That’s how easy it is to get a rebuild locally. There’s a good guy in Milton that you will likely hear about - but he’s the one with a bid so high that I’m not going to pursue it.
 
JDMopar said:
I called them when I was looking to buy a remanufactured 4.7 for my 2004 Dakota. The guy I talked to acted like he didn't want to answer any of my questions about their processes or whether they did any upgrades to alleviate any of the known problems of those engines. He didn't seem to care whether they got my business or not, so.....they didn't! I bought a nice 4.7 from Powertrain Engines, and the owner answered all of my questions and was interested in helping me. I have been very happy with the motor I got from them and put in the Dakota. I don't know that they would have anything for Ken, the OP here, unless he bought a 318 for a late 80's D100 and swapped it in. @Ken71Twister , check the VIN pad on your block and see if it is the numbers matching motor for your car. If it is, get that motor rebuilt by that machine shop suggested above.
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I assure you that the VIN numbers will match. I had the engine rebuilt in 1988 by a shop near Panama City. It still runs great but it is dripping oil from an elusive source on the back side of the engine (and not the oil pressure sensor). Oil runs down the right side exhaust manifold. I figure that I may as well have a rebuild after 36 years while the engine is out for gaskets. I probably have 60K or 70K miles on the rebuilt engine.
 
It could be either the intake gasket, or the O ring on the distributor. I'd about bet it's the corner of the intake gasket. If you don't have one, you could get one of those little round mirrors on an extendo stick like an antenna mast to look and find the leak without having to crawl all over the fender. Harbor Freight has them cheap. It's nice that it's still a numbers matching car after all these years.
 
Ken71Twister said:
No worry on me giving up the hobby. I’m pretty much married to this car. I bought it when I was 19, dated my wife in that car, and she fully supports us keeping the car up. I was close to having someone not too far from here do a restoration - but the cost came in about $15K over my threshold of pain. I’ll go back to plan A and have things done piecemeal. I spent some time today experimenting with a new sending unit and fuel gauge and I’m now pulling the instrument cluster out to replace the gauge. I’ll touch base with the guys in Lake City. That’s only 4 hours away.
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We lost a good machinist and mopar specific machine shop whe Dan Dvorak passed away a few years ago. He was located mid state in Waldo, so it was inconvenient for all, but worth the trip. Luckily I had kids going to college in Gainesville, so it was always a good excuse to see them too.
I am getting ready to head up north (vermont) for the summer, but if you have not done anything by the fall, I will be glad to help.
Make sure your sending unit has the grounding strap that jumps over the rubber hoses to the steel fuel lines
 
Ken71Twister said:
I assure you that the VIN numbers will match. I had the engine rebuilt in 1988 by a shop near Panama City. It still runs great but it is dripping oil from an elusive source on the back side of the engine (and not the oil pressure sensor). Oil runs down the right side exhaust manifold. I figure that I may as well have a rebuild after 36 years while the engine is out for gaskets. I probably have 60K or 70K miles on the rebuilt engine.
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It does sound like You just need an intake gasket set, & maybe valve cover gaskets as well if they are the same age. If the car idles & runs fine, doesn't smoke, no noises, & compression is good, there's no way I'd advise You to pull it just for a gasket leak. I'd start there, change 'em, if no more leak I'd keep on drivin'.
 
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