Where to get pre bent exhaust pipes and any suggestions on how to swage them to fit over mufflers?

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As weird as it sounds, I've considered welding in the 68-76 gas tank strap mount since I do have a parts car....

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The TTI site lists these:

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I bought the kit from Jegs for my '74 360 Duster. Had to trim and fit every single piece, but now it's all welded rather than clamped. I also bought 2 sets of flanges and put them at the front of my mufflers, so I can drop out the mid section if I want, as the H pipe is under the trans tail housing. Yeah, it was way more work than I expected.

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I piece mealed my Ragtop all 2 1/2" . Came out all right. My Big block car I also flanged. I have 1 H pipe set up with surburban mufflers for when I can't take the noise anymore and an X-pipe set up with racing mufflers. Quick change with the flanges which are on the tailpipes too. Did all three exhausts on my back with car up on stands as high as I could get it.
 
There's really no advantage to 2.5" tailpipe, and arguably a disadvantage.
EXCEPT.
There is an advantage to 2.5 mufflers and the first turn after the muffler can be tight.
So the trick is where to drop the diameter after the muffler.
You didn't say how high rpm this swap will be spinning but I'm assuming you may take this to the track.

Pics of the Accurate tailpipes we reused with the new system. Maybe I'll fix it this year.
Backstory.
Atmospheric pressure at the tailpipe is 14.7 psi against the pressure flowing out. The further up the system that 14.7 psi gets, the more it will slow down the flow out the exhaust ports of the engine. Keeping the velocity up near the exhaust ports will reduce reversion on any engine, but especially an engine that spends more time at low to mid rpm, or has to spin through low to get to high rpm.

Stepping up through the primary tubes is usually a good technique to keep the velocity up and yet not restrict higher rpm flow. Pipe-max shows H- Pipe or any other major change should be about 20" after the primary tubes join for most of our engines. By the time the exhaust is at the mufflers its cooling and the mufflers cool it much more. Mass of the exhaust gas stays the same but the volume is less.
 
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I like to do everything that I can here instead of relying on outside vendors or shops.
I saw these:

https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/...r_components/direct_fit_pipe_kits/parts/15826
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Does anyone here have any experience with these? I'm looking to swap the exhaust in my 67 Dart when I do the engine swap. It will have headers, an H pipe, Flowmaster mufflers and 2 1/2" pipes so these seem to be a logical choice.
Free shipping too.
The goal is to piece together a good exhaust system here at home without going to a muffler shop. I also need to know if there is a way to swage pipes to slip one into the other for a more positive connection.
Thanks!
I used them. Typically you want to slide into the muffler.
I did about a decade in exhaust shops. Anyone with a pipe machine can dwell these up to an extent. But things like aluminum content of pipe or stainless pipe drastically limit the ability to expand. The pipe will split.
 
I have the Flowmaster 2.5 tailpipes on my 72 and they fit fine. I have run them on a B and C body as well.
 
I worked in a muffler shop back in the day and I can’t recall a pipe ever being installed over the muffler neck.
I have seen some automotive magazines publications said expanding tail pipe to fit over muffler outlet improves flow. So I think thats where ppl get that idea from.
 
I have seen some automotive magazines publications said expanding tail pipe to fit over muffler outlet improves flow. So I think thats where ppl get that idea from.
I would have to assume that it would be very little difference.
 
I would have to assume that it would be very little difference.
It would be within the margin of error. Never noticeable on a street car


Also anything you swell up gets thinner and mire brittle. It will fail first. I would rather an easily replaced muffler rot out before a tail.
I've bent tails for a bodies in one piece,unlike flowmaster,I didn't enjoy it
 
I messed with the Jegs kit and gave up and took it to a muffler shop.

I think what screwed me is the Jegs kit was for its own cheaper muffler, which was a few inches shorter than the Dynomax mufflers I have. This threw the geometry off from the muffler on back and it seemed like no matter what types of mods I made, I'd fix one problem and cause one or two more because of it. After futzing with this on the floor on my back for over a week, I gave up and took it in.
 
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I like to do everything that I can here instead of relying on outside vendors or shops.
I saw these:

https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/...r_components/direct_fit_pipe_kits/parts/15826
View attachment 1716367463

Does anyone here have any experience with these? I'm looking to swap the exhaust in my 67 Dart when I do the engine swap. It will have headers, an H pipe, Flowmaster mufflers and 2 1/2" pipes so these seem to be a logical choice.
Free shipping too.
The goal is to piece together a good exhaust system here at home without going to a muffler shop. I also need to know if there is a way to swage pipes to slip one into the other for a more positive connection.
Thanks!
I used pipes from Waldrens. they make complete exhaust systems for many different cars. They seem to be good quality and fit well, I got aluminized.
 
As weird as it sounds, I've considered welding in the 68-76 gas tank strap mount since I do have a parts car....

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Damn that looks too nice to be demoted to "parts car". Where the guy at that was looking for everything to restore a rotted out 71 demon/duster? It was somewhere on here within the last 3-4 days
 
He is welcome to send me a PM.
The car is a 1976 and here in California, to register it requires an emission test and all the equipment needs to be in place. It is a slant six “Dart Lite” where many of the parts are unique.
I’m not one to suggest a rebody but…..
 
Is there a chance that you meant Walker ?

He means Waldron's. I've heard good things about them.

I was pleased with the dual exhaust system I bought from Classic Exhaust about ten years ago. They're under new management now, so I can't say much, but when I ordered mine, the web site said they had a 6 week lead time, I called and spoke on the phone to the owner for a few minutes, placed my order, expected to wait a month and a half, and had my system in four days.

– Eric
 
The car is a 1976 and here in California, to register it requires an emission test and all the equipment needs to be in place.

So what you're saying is that in California it's a non-register-able 3,000 pound albatross, but everywhere else it's a clean, rust-free California car. ;-)

– Eric
 
It used to be that you could not install an engine older than the car but you could install one the same year as the car (with all the correct emission equipment) or a newer engine that also has all the emission equipment that was installed on the vehicle year that it came from. For example, a "Magnum" 360 might be legal if I used the EFI and catalytic converters.
I'm not sure if the guidelines still allow the newer engines. If that were the case, you'd still need to source catalytic converters which cannot legally be sold from a junkyard, you'd have to do a private party deal or buy new ones.
Regardless, the 1976 and newer cars are required to pass emission standards it had to meet when they were new.
There is a bill that was proposed to move that 1976 number to a rolling 35 year exemption, meaning currently a 1991 and newer car would be required to be tested and cars built for the 1990 model year and before would be exempt. If this were to become law, every 1976 year model car will go up in value by some amount.
This Dart of mine is pretty solid. It would make a great builder. It needs some minor work but is far more solid that what anyone back east comes across.
 
I used the 62-74 2.5" B body tailpipes on my '70 Roadrunner. They are good quality and fit was good. I bought them about 5 years ago when the price was somewhere between $100-130. The factory H pipe was still good, so I cobbled together pieces to go in between from an S bend kit I bought 15 years ago and still had pieces left. That kit has also gone way up in price. It took me about 3-4 hours to put it together.
https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/...onents/j-bends_u-bends_and_tubing/parts/15926
At todays prices, It might be better to get a whole kit. But I probably have under $250 in this full exhaust.
Note: I added the turndowns by cutting a couple of the S bends from my spares. And I didn't need a pipe expander for anything on this exhaust, the S bends come with one end expanded for slip fit.

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i went tti. fits awesome.. ther is some trimming needed to get it to fit properly. since its made for 67-up darts the tail piper stuck out way to far for me and looked stupid so i cut the turn downs off and slid them back some...






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It used to be that you could not install an engine older than the car but you could install one the same year as the car (with all the correct emission equipment) or a newer engine that also has all the emission equipment that was installed on the vehicle year that it came from. For example, a "Magnum" 360 might be legal if I used the EFI and catalytic converters.
I'm not sure if the guidelines still allow the newer engines. If that were the case, you'd still need to source catalytic converters which cannot legally be sold from a junkyard, you'd have to do a private party deal or buy new ones.
Regardless, the 1976 and newer cars are required to pass emission standards it had to meet when they were new.
There is a bill that was proposed to move that 1976 number to a rolling 35 year exemption, meaning currently a 1991 and newer car would be required to be tested and cars built for the 1990 model year and before would be exempt. If this were to become law, every 1976 year model car will go up in value by some amount.
This Dart of mine is pretty solid. It would make a great builder. It needs some minor work but is far more solid that what anyone back east comes across.
In your state. Too bad you live in Cali.
 
It used to be that you could not install an engine older than the car but you could install one the same year as the car (with all the correct emission equipment) or a newer engine that also has all the emission equipment that was installed on the vehicle year that it came from. For example, a "Magnum" 360 might be legal if I used the EFI and catalytic converters.
I'm not sure if the guidelines still allow the newer engines. If that were the case, you'd still need to source catalytic converters which cannot legally be sold from a junkyard, you'd have to do a private party deal or buy new ones.
Regardless, the 1976 and newer cars are required to pass emission standards it had to meet when they were new.
There is a bill that was proposed to move that 1976 number to a rolling 35 year exemption, meaning currently a 1991 and newer car would be required to be tested and cars built for the 1990 model year and before would be exempt. If this were to become law, every 1976 year model car will go up in value by some amount.
This Dart of mine is pretty solid. It would make a great builder. It needs some minor work but is far more solid that what anyone back east comes across.
It was my understanding when they phased in the Smog crap that the date was to be rolling from the start, but CARB pushed back and never moved up the date.
 
I used the 62-74 2.5" B body tailpipes on my '70 Roadrunner. They are good quality and fit was good. I bought them about 5 years ago when the price was somewhere between $100-130. The factory H pipe was still good, so I cobbled together pieces to go in between from an S bend kit I bought 15 years ago and still had pieces left. That kit has also gone way up in price. It took me about 3-4 hours to put it together.
https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/...onents/j-bends_u-bends_and_tubing/parts/15926
At todays prices, It might be better to get a whole kit. But I probably have under $250 in this full exhaust.
Note: I added the turndowns by cutting a couple of the S bends from my spares. And I didn't need a pipe expander for anything on this exhaust, the S bends come with one end expanded for slip fit.

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Damn that system is so nice and shiny against that back ground…. LOL
 
Damn that system is so nice and shiny against that back ground…. LOL
I'm treating this car like I would have 50 years ago. In 1975, the goal would be to get it running and driving, then make it somewhat presentable.
I have 2 cars that are in process of full restos, and 2 cars that will be drivers that I won't be nervous to let out of my sight. The Roadrunner falls in the 2nd category.
 
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