where to purchase template to drill flywheel

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66signet said:
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...umber/97541/filename/6448895-360flywheel2.jpg
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years ago when I was a machinist , I used that drawing to make a drilling template out of a neutral flywheel. I used hardened drill bushings for the drill holes, and dowel pins to line the drilling jig up to the blank flywheel. It looked pretty cool, but I never tried it so I don't know if it worked or not. It's in the bottom of one of my toolboxes, I think. I could probably post a pic if anyone is interested.
 
rustycowll69 said:
years ago when I was a machinist , I used that drawing to make a drilling template out of a neutral flywheel. I used hardened drill bushings for the drill holes, and dowel pins to line the drilling jig up to the blank flywheel. It looked pretty cool, but I never tried it so I don't know if it worked or not. It's in the bottom of one of my toolboxes, I think. I could probably post a pic if anyone is interested.
Click to expand...
 
same image i saved years ago... can you just buy a 360 flywheel? pretty sure they are available..

318 340 flywheel to a 360.gif
 
rustycowll69 said:
years ago when I was a machinist , I used that drawing to make a drilling template out of a neutral flywheel. I used hardened drill bushings for the drill holes, and dowel pins to line the drilling jig up to the blank flywheel. It looked pretty cool, but I never tried it so I don't know if it worked or not. It's in the bottom of one of my toolboxes, I think. I could probably post a pic if anyone is interested.
Click to expand...
I'd like to see the picture if possible as I am making what I call a 'drilling jig' to do this job.

Also, there's the question of the angle of the drill tip. I've had it pointed out to me that nobody seems to know whether it should be a 118° or 135° included angle, both are 'standard' for these drills. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
 
Ray Bell said:
I'd like to see the picture if possible as I am making what I call a 'drilling jig' to do this job.

Also, there's the question of the angle of the drill tip. I've had it pointed out to me that nobody seems to know whether it should be a 118° or 135° included angle, both are 'standard' for these drills. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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The last post in this thread was 3 years ago................................
 
Use a neutral flywheel and this Quicktime RM-531 plate, its cheap.

Can be used for a flexplate or flywheel.

No drilling required.


1707828771712.png
 
I'm just hoping Rusty will get an e.mail and respond...

His PMs are full, I couldn't get anything to him that way.

Two things count against that Quicktime plate for my usage.

I actually see threads way older than this reactivated on another forum, one came up the other day which was active in 2003.
 
What counts against using the plate? Just curious, Car guys I know have used it, I was going to use it before changing my mind and installing a 440 that is yet another different balance of flywheel (cast crank), along with good reviews on summit.
 
The first is from an engineering point of view...

This locates on the small spigot on the crankshaft and leaves less room for the flywheel to be securely seated.

The other thing is that it costs over $100 by the time you get it here.
 
I don't know the thickness off hand, but it is not very thick, cannot see that being a huge problem (??)

For $100 and zero f'n around, that is what i would choose instead of drilling a flywheel that you may or may not have a way of verifying the new balance

I have not used it myself, so I could be very incorrect here....
 
With regard to the registering of the flywheel on the spigot of the crank flange...

This picture shows that there's not much room:

0224crankflangemeasured.jpg


Just a tad under 6mm, so then what's the thickness of the Quicktime balancer? I can't see it being less than 2mm, possibly 2.5mm, which is still less than ⅛" (3.2mm). And then there's the chamfer on the bore of the flywheel, which I couldn't measure:

0224flywheelchamfer.jpg


This might well steal away another 2mm, but even if it's only 1.5mm we're looking at less than 2mm of the outside section of the spigot providing a secure seating of the (heavy) flywheel.
 
Ray Bell said:
With regard to the registering of the flywheel on the spigot of the crank flange...

This picture shows that there's not much room:

View attachment 1716208017

Just a tad under 6mm, so then what's the thickness of the Quicktime balancer? I can't see it being less than 2mm, possibly 2.5mm, which is still less than ⅛" (3.2mm). And then there's the chamfer on the bore of the flywheel, which I couldn't measure:

View attachment 1716208019

This might well steal away another 2mm, but even if it's only 1.5mm we're looking at less than 2mm of the outside section of the spigot providing a secure seating of the (heavy) flywheel.
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This is the reason why I would NEVER use the balance plate shown above. Not to mention, it moves the flywheel in the bellhousing and messes with the ring gear/starter alignment.
 
The other option here is that we can re-balance your existing flywheel for cast crank applications.
I only do this on factory flywheels that are neutral balance now, the cost is $45.00 plus any shipping as applicable.
For the 360/400/440 options, the drill bit will cost more than that.
 
Thank you inertia and thank you Dan...

It certainly would be an attractive option to just drop a flywheel or two around to you and have it drilled, Dan. However, from Australia this would incur huge shipping costs and would therefore be out of the question.

The other factor is that I still have two other 360 engines and I don't know what the future holds for them, it's possible I'd need to repeat the exercise.

And finally, the big question in my mind with this is the drill tip angle. The question was raised on another forum as to whether it's a 118° or 135° drill to be used. My personal leaning is that it would be 118° as the 135° drills weren't (according to what I've read) popularised until some years after Chrysler devised this method of balancing.
 
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And I should have mentioned that I have the 1 13/64" drill already...

I got very lucky with that, a friend who's now 86 and no longer able to use his workshop gave it to me. He, in turn, got it among a stack of other tooling when his employer closed down back in the nineties. So the most expensive part of the operation cost me nothing!
 
Ray Bell said:
And I should have mentioned that I have the 1 13/64" drill already...

I got very lucky with that, a friend who's now 86 and no longer able to use his workshop gave it to me. He, in turn, got it among a stack of other tooling when his employer closed down back in the nineties. So the most expensive part of the operation cost me nothing!
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You have what you need then, as the prints have already been posted. It is helpful to drill a pilot hole to the proper 0.660" depth first, I usually start with something around 3/8" or 10mm.
 
Once again, thanks Dan...

I had figured on stepping up drill size to about 1" before taking the final cut.

And do you think the 118° or 135° drill is the correct one?
 
Ray Bell said:
Once again, thanks Dan...

I had figured on stepping up drill size to about 1" before taking the final cut.

And do you think the 118° or 135° drill is the correct one?
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118 is considered standard, and what I have always used.
 
Dan Brewer said:
Those are a copy of the McLeod weight kits, and are used on a steel flywheel that is flat and smooth on the engine side. Cast flywheels are neither. And beyond that, you still need to know where to drill/tap so it bolts in place.
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I am not going to argue with Mr. Brewer! I think those weights are for the flywheel sold by 440 Source though and not a cast flywheel as stated by Mr. Brewer.
 
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