Which cam will work decently with stock magnum tune?

[oliver]

Looking to make a couple mods on my 01 ram with the 5.2 mag. Stupid California isn't letting non factory tunes anymore so anything too radical won't be considered. Was looking at a comp 20-746-9. I know its not an a body but this forum is the best Mopar resource I know of.

 

[ChargedDart75]

Looking to make a couple mods on my 01 ram with the 5.2 mag. Stupid California isn't letting non factory tunes anymore so anything too radical won't be considered. Was looking at a comp 20-746-9. I know its not an a body but this forum is the best Mopar resource I know of.

The duration might cause the computer a bit of issue, LSA is same as stock so that helps. Definitely need to check piston to valve and make sure the keeper isn't going to hit the valve guide.

 

[oliver]

The duration might cause the computer a bit of issue, LSA is same as stock so that helps. Definitely need to check piston to valve and make sure the keeper isn't going to hit the valve guide.

yeah, i was hoping to fool the computer enough by sliding the crank sensor over to bump initial timing by 4-6 degrees to help with the increased duration. I always check ptv clearance and I think ill get the hughes spring kit since ill need to do valve springs anyways. I could also just get a hughes cam.

 

[jammied]

I have ran a similar cam as the one you listed. Similar in all specs. In a 95 dakota 2wd. And in a 5.2 it didn't start making power until above 2,000 rpm closer to 2,500. I ran a mopar performance computer without issues but that was a obd1 ecu.

Guess it depends on what your wanting the ram to do. For better all around performance maybe a comp 20-608-9 or the comp 20-612-9 maybe the 20-602-9

Or try hipotech they have some grinds for 4x4 or heavier truck applications

On my dakota I did the slot the crank sensor mod and advanced timing and also set sync to I believe +3 maybe +4

Whatever route you go. I wish you luck

 

[jammied]

And here is some reference on factory mopar performance grinds. Notice the rt 2 cam said it required a mopar performance ecu or computer upgrades. With the stock Rev limiter at around 5,000 rpm I would personally stick with something in the 210 and under range for lift at .050. Now ebay sometimes has the mopar performance ecu's used then maybe a larger duration and they are carb compliant in all states.

They were talking about a 5.9 in a dart in this thread. And turning 5,800 rpm just for reference

 

[jammied]

On a 5.2 ram I think that gears and a mild converter. Would add more performance than a cam and stock ecu. Then like you stated adjust the crank sensor for more advance and reset sync even with stock cam a +2 or +3 sync would work

 

[jos51700]

**** all that. Stop paying those pricks to treat you like that and move to a free state.

 

[RustyRatRod]

A stock Magnum cam.

 

[oliver]

I have ran a similar cam as the one you listed. Similar in all specs. In a 95 dakota 2wd. And in a 5.2 it didn't start making power until above 2,000 rpm closer to 2,500. I ran a mopar performance computer without issues but that was a obd1 ecu.

Guess it depends on what your wanting the ram to do. For better all around performance maybe a comp 20-608-9 or the comp 20-612-9 maybe the 20-602-9

Or try hipotech they have some grinds for 4x4 or heavier truck applications

On my dakota I did the slot the crank sensor mod and advanced timing and also set sync to I believe +3 maybe +4

Whatever route you go. I wish you luck

On a 5.2 ram I think that gears and a mild converter. Would add more performance than a cam and stock ecu. Then like you stated adjust the crank sensor for more advance and reset sync even with stock cam a +2 or +3 sync would work

I plan on long tubes, kegger mods, higher stall converter, shift kit, and 3.9ish gears and maybe slightly shorter tires. It's a single cab short bed 2wd street truck. The sensor is already slotted and fuel sync is at +3 iirc

**** all that. Stop paying those pricks to treat you like that and move to a free state.

I agree, it's in the books but it won't happen for a few more years.

A stock Magnum cam.

It's anemic. With the mods I'll do, it will hold it back some.

 

[jammied]

Long tubes aren't legal in California lol. So just as well get a cam and a computer tune.

Your ram probably still weighs 4,000lbs maybe just drop a 5.9 in it

 

[RustyRatRod]

I plan on long tubes, kegger mods, higher stall converter, shift kit, and 3.9ish gears and maybe slightly shorter tires. It's a single cab short bed 2wd street truck. The sensor is already slotted and fuel sync is at +3 iirc



I agree, it's in the books but it won't happen for a few more years.



It's anemic. With the mods I'll do, it will hold it back some.

You said "stock Magnum tune". If you change the camshaft, you'll need to change the tune. Then, it won't be a "stock tune".

 

[oliver]

You said "stock Magnum tune". If you change the camshaft, you'll need to change the tune. Then, it won't be a "stock tune".

I guess I should have said what mild cam will barely work with the stock tune and be drivable by tweaking the crank sensor, fuel sync, and injector sizes.

 

[jammied]

You said "stock Magnum tune". If you change the camshaft, you'll need to change the tune. Then, it won't be a "stock tune".

I agree stock tune is like 5,200 Rev limiter so to wild of a cam won't see full potential. Then the fuel and timing curves. Fuel can somewhat be compensated for with injectors and fuel pressure. Timing crank sensor adjustment. But the actual curves are still the same.

I would do gears and a air intake first. Get a dakota or durango air hat and make your own air intake.

220 @050 is going to throw codes now I don't think that the transmission will go to limp mode though

 

[RustyRatRod]

I guess I should have said what mild cam will barely work with the stock tune and be drivable by tweaking the crank sensor, fuel sync, and injector sizes.

With ZERO tuning trouble and 100% reliability. Stock.

 

[jammied]

With ZERO tuning trouble and 100% reliability. Stock.

Well if Mopar still had the r/t cam or if crane wouldn't have went out of business that cam worked good for stock computers. Hughes claims to have a 5.2 cam that works with stock computers also

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well if Mopar still had the r/t cam or if crane wouldn't have went out of business that cam worked good for stock computers. Hughes claims to have a 5.2 cam that works with stock computers also

....if bullfrogs......well nevermind.

 

[oliver]

I agree stock tune is like 5,200 Rev limiter so to wild of a cam won't see full potential. Then the fuel and timing curves. Fuel can somewhat be compensated for with injectors and fuel pressure. Timing crank sensor adjustment. But the actual curves are still the same.

I would do gears and a air intake first. Get a dakota or durango air hat and make your own air intake.

220 @050 is going to throw codes now I don't think that the transmission will go to limp mode though

Hmm. In that case I'll just plan on getting a syked tuner or buying the hp tuners for it and returning to stock tune every year just to pass the computer part

With ZERO tuning trouble and 100% reliability. Stock.

This thing will barely get out of it's own way. They were barely drivable from the factory.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Hmm. In that case I'll just plan on getting a syked tuner or buying the hp tuners for it and returning to stock tune every year just to pass the computer part



This thing will barely get out of it's own way. They were barely drivable from the factory.

Ok. Then have at it.

 

[jammied]

....if bullfrogs......well nevermind.

Yep lol

 

[oliver]

Ok. Then have at it.

Might stick the cam that came out of my 340 then. Lol. Solid roller 248 deg @.050 .610 lift with 1.6 rockers..

 

[jammied]

The guy hughes has listed on their site is reasonable. $250 for a tune and think he will do a follow up retune for free.

 

[RustyRatRod]

All I can tell you is this. If you think putting a "mild cam" in, in the place of your stock one is going to be the end all be all for a power change, you're wrong.

Have fun though. That's what it's all about.

 

[jammied]

So the 216/224 @.050 comp you have listed is very similar to the cam I ran in my 5.2 dakota. Not trying to be a know it all but I have ran that combination.

I had 3.92 gears hooker super comp long tubes tuned for a 5.2 dakota and weighed 3,650 regular cab 2wd long box. With stock converter it wasn't impressive at all until 2,000 rpm or better then it would come unglued and smoke the tires. But that was a pegleg rear.

With your ram I think probably around 2,500 actual stall and probably 4.56 gears would put it into the low 14's maybe high 13's 1/4. But without converter and gears it will be lethargic. That's assuming you get the computer and or programming to go with it.

My 1/8 times were 8.80 with severe traction problems and 1/4 trap speeds were 106 and bouncing off the 6,000 rpm Rev limiter at the last 75' or so in the 1/4.

I wish you luck no matter

 

[oliver]

All I can tell you is this. If you think putting a "mild cam" in, in the place of your stock one is going to be the end all be all for a power change, you're wrong.

Have fun though. That's what it's all about.

Oh, I think it will do alot over the stock stick. When I stuck the smallest 114lsa cam in a customers 5.9 it really woke that sum ***** up, I tell you what. Night an day

 

[jammied]

Should have stated I was running factory stock kegger and bored 52mm throttle body